Temp

I actually made one. Its just a 10k NTC (@25C) resistor. Something like this and some heat shrink sheeve to insulate the wires after soldering. I used telephone cable to hook it up to the stat. Only need two wires but ideally they should be twisted together. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pcs-NTC-10k-Thermistor-MF52-103-Temperature-Sensitive-Resistor/264908446152?hash=item3dadc619c8:g:d04AAOSwYP5i58R2&pageci=3bf7b223-b3df-4e6b-a18e-b2df511f1ba3&redirect=mobile I put it in a small plastic box (about the size of a match box) with a few holes drilled along the top and bottom. If doing it again a could probably 3D print an even smaller one. Google found another make that im sure would also work... https://www.sterlingsensors.co.uk/indoor-wall-mount-thermistor-sensor.html I'm sure Heatmiser must make a a remote air temperature sensor - I probably made mine after seeing the price !

As I recall Part M of the regs (on disabled access) say you shouldn't make things worse for wheelchair users but in your case I don't think any of the options would be significantly worse given the steps down.

We have wet UFH in our bathroom. Used a Heatmiser programmable stat on wall outside bathroom with a remote wall mounted air temperature sensor in the bathroom. Works well as we can have the bathroom heated at times of year when we wouldn't have the bedrooms heated.

I think I would get a planning consultant involved. Ask them to review your application, see what they say. Sounds to me like you have good chance of getting PP on appeal. We spent a year in pre app advice stage getting nowhere. Planning Consultant was very helpful. Quite often they used to work for the planning department and get taken seriously. Sometimes you just have to file your application and take it to appeal if rejected.

This is the sort of thing I was thinking of. Its galvanised steel with a plastic coating.. https://www.southernsheeting.co.uk/categories.html?filter_set[]=285,310&name=drip+flashing&type=simple&perpage=76

Can you run the render board up behind the cladding a bit so the membrane can overlap it without being seen? I used a strip of lead above a window on my outbuilding. The top edge of the strip goes behind the membrane, the bottom edge goes in front of the cement board (window head board in my case). There must be someone making aluminium sections that would do the same job.

I found one or two wouldn't recommend people for fear of somehow becoming liable so I started out saying things like.. "I know you can't recommend somone but is there anyone I should go check out myself? That sometimes worked well. Other places were much more forthcoming and even told me people to avoid, especially if there wernt any other customers around.

Having seen the design with open plan areas and full height areas I think you need to find a builder and have him sit down with your Architect to discuss how to construct it. Depending on the outcome the builder might want construction drawings done. For example roofs need to be triangulated to stop them pushing walls out. There are several ways to do this but large steel beams or frames might be needed. Above the full height open plan areas. If there is an access problem will you need to and be able to crane them into place?

Perhaps take a drive around. See if you can find some nice one off houses being built. Stop and tell them you might need a builder soon ask if you can look around. That's how we found our builder (and ruled out a few).

Perhaps look at brick and block with stick built roof?

April 23 figures.. https://www.checkatrade.com/blog/cost-guides/building-cost-per-sq-m/ Don't just look at the table, read the text as it details extra costs not included which are significant.

When we looked at a QS they wanted 1.5% +VAT of the build cost to work out the materials and labour. We then got 3 or 4 quotes from builders. The QS wanted more to review the quotes to ensure they were all made on the same basis. Eg One builder had included a greater PC sum for the kitchen, another hadn't included any landscaping or driveway etc. There were a lot of differences. One had dramatically under estimated the cost of windows. The QS pointed out all the errors and omissions and asked for final quotes. They were all within a few thousand of the QS estimate. During construction we made almost no changes but did find second fix items like wood and stone flooring much more expensive. Probably over spent by £40k. It's about 310 sqm built to high standard in 2005-7.

They will have some sort of frame that screws into the patress box and the face plate clips to the frame so no screws visible. Some modification to the frame might be needed. I've done similar things to other makes to produce things like loud speakers cable outlets.

They do a blank plate.. https://www.corston.com/products/1g-blank-plate-antique-brass Add your own brass toggle switch and panel mounted cable strain relief or just the strain relief and an inline switch at the light. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Toggle-Switch-Single-Mounting-Connector/dp/B07YVBG8S2/ref=sr_1_19?crid=1CQP0EO3FQUBC&keywords=Antique+brass+toggle+switch+panel+mounted&qid=1690302828&sprefix=antique+brass+toggle+switch+panel+mounted%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-19 https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Strain-Bushing-13-7x11mm/dp/B08MZ4KBKJ/ref=d_pb_allspark_dp_sims_pao_desktop_session_based_sccl_3_1/261-1952398-5195920?pd_rd_w=qChST&content-id=amzn1.sym.4a6a4f4b-2ec4-4358-bbb7-36a980a0ba06&pf_rd_p=4a6a4f4b-2ec4-4358-bbb7-36a980a0ba06&pf_rd_r=0TW5H8BEMGDZNYMEMNDZ&pd_rd_wg=13nAw&pd_rd_r=4a15434e-e422-42d2-9961-cfd8a202c8db&pd_rd_i=B08MZ4KBKJ&psc=1 Possibly similar cheaper on ebay.

Attaching to the inside face not between. Much easier to get the sheets up tight against each other with no gaps. Mobile phone reception might be an issue due to the screening effect of the foil. Depends how big your doors and windows are and the orientation to the transmitter mast.

I'm considering replacing a kitchen in a retirement flat. It only really has room for two runs of units 1650mm long. Some of the layout options I'm considering require a 500mm wide Hob. For example.. Wall 600mm wide built in oven with pan drawer below 400mm wide drawer or cupboard unit 500mm wide Hob with drawer or cupboard below. 150mm wide gap (required by regs, could be used for trays) Wall Is it mad to consider a 500mm wide hob? I could fit a 600mm wide Hob but it would overlap the drawer unit. Would that mean loosing the top drawer or are there shallow induction hobs that fit in the thickness if the worktop? And in the other run possibly.. Wall 600mm wide fridge freezer 50mm gap? 1000mm wide sink unit 500mm cupboard/500mm drawers Wall Alternatively Google says you can put an induction hob above an oven if you get the ventilation right but is this wise?

Welcome. I think I would remove the existing insulation between studs to create a 50mm ventilated void to reduce risk of condensation. Fit 75-100mm foil covered insulation on the inside and tape up the joints with foil tape to form a vapour barrier. Then OSB and plasterboard for a decent finish or just plywood and paint. Not sure about the floor. How deep are the floor joists?

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2023/07/23/scotland-homes-sale-ban-swap-gas-boilers-heat-pumps-snp/ Homeowners in Scotland face being banned from selling their properties unless they swap gas boilers for heat pumps, under plans being considered by Humza Yousaf’s government. From 2025, properties will need to meet Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) rating of C or above at certain trigger points, including a sale. But the EPC ratings system will first be overhauled and more stringent green standards introduced, meaning some homes that currently achieve a C rating will be downgraded. It is understood that this could include giving a lower score to homes heated by gas boilers, forcing some owners to install a low carbon source of heating such as a heat pump before they could sell. Currently, EPC ratings take into account how costly it is to heat a home, but the Herald on Sunday warned reforms mean they could also include the type of heating. Patrick Harvie, the green zero carbon buildings minister, said the Scottish Government wanted “all homes to reach new energy efficiency standards by no later than 2033”.

Regular grout can be raked out but it's not super easy. There are grout removal tools. I have stone tile hatches over the cisterns in our bathrooms and just left them ungrouted. I suppose I could fill them with a strip of wood and a very thin layer of grout but haven't felt the need.

See diagram 17 row B.. If it came up through the flat roof within 2300mm of the parapet it would need to go 1m above the parapet. That's what I would do in your case where it runs up the outside of the wall. Remember it also needs to be at least 4.5m above the appliance. If there are any other buildings nearby it should really be higher than those as well. Edit: Row D suggest 600mm above the parapet might be OK but I'd go with 1m.

Only the once. I just asked the guy doing the annual service if he could fit a smaller one for me. Showed him the table in the installation manual. That was quite a few years ago now.

Best try and get a bat survey underway.

What else is in the same road/area? If there are other contemporary houses around would help. See Google images for "1960s contemporary homes" and see if anything appeals. It's surprising how modern some are.

Does the whole floor slope? Is it like a short ramp between two level areas? A hollow, so down and up again? One option might be to find a thin underlay and use carpet tape to stick layers together where the transition is.. ---- -------- ------------- Otherwise perhaps board over the room where its flat and use a self levelling compound intended for wood floors in the sloping area.

Yes the nozzle/jet in the burner. As I recall Grant boiler model numbers are the power in kW with different nozzles. So a 50/70 is 50kW with a small jet and 70kW with a big one. Most of the specs list power out and efficiency figures for three different size nozzles.