Temp

The procedure is in here.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/preventing-and-resolving-disputes-in-relation-to-party-walls/the-party-wall-etc-act-1996-explanatory-booklet Basically can take months. If you get no reply or no agreement you are meant to appoint and pay for a surveyor to represent them separate to the one you are using. What work are you doing? There is no penalty for not complying with the PWA but if you caused damage and it went to court they might look less favourably on you for not complying.

Cant comment on how much work or what can get retained without knowing how much insulation was fitted in the roof and walls. Even how it's installed can matter. Is the roof membrane a vapour permeable type? You might also need to make changes to doors on other floors as a loft conversion makes it the three storey house.

Have they actually initiated enforcement action or just warned you that they will if you don't do xyz? If they haven't initiated enforcement action I would speak to a planning consultant asap about an application for a certificate of lawful development on the grounds it's too late to initiate enforcement action. You can always apply for separate PP later or at same time.

Looks ok to me but I would request sample tiles for approval. Think I also want to see how the dry ridge looked compared to the neighbours. Do you have a chimney or vent pipes through the roof? What sort of flashing. Ideally ask to go see a house they are currently doing.

Few trees and a hedge. Fertilize/lawn sand the lawn area to make it a darker green colour and cut it a different length. Perhaps check old aerial photos for any evidence of a boundary.

Depends entirely on where the nearest transmitter is, how far away and how powerful. In some areas a length of wet string could probably be used. In others you need a tall pole and large aerial. In some cases you need a very directional aerial to prevent you picking up signals from the "wrong" transmitter. Ask/look at what your neighbours are using and which way they are pointing. In weak signal areas the the golden rules are.. Right type and size of aerial. As high as possible. If signal still weak only then use a mast head amplifier (goes at the top of the pole). +1 Excellent site.

Are there any fences, hedges or ditches that form an obvious garden/field boundary? I think you will need Planning Permission either way because 6 acres is only about 2.5 Hectares so too small to be considered an "agricultural holding of five or more hectares, under Part 6, Class A of the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) Order.

We have MVHR and opted for an extractor hood. I figured its not running a high percentage of the time and when it is it probably just gives the MVHR incoming fan an easier ride. It doesn't seem it affect our wood burner either.

I think 230cm is a bit too low to build a separate false ceiling below it. Yes, wall plates normally same height as the joists. If the existing ceiling is very irregular building it as a separate ceiling would avoid having to make lots of different thicknesses of packing to get everything to the same height. Also avoids any further movement of the existing ceiling causing movement of the new.

How high is the ceiling? If the result wouldn't be too low I would fit wall plates around the walls and use small joist hangers and new joists below the existing ceiling. No connection between the two. If the whole floor isn't really strong enough take down existing plasterboard. Sister the joists to strengthen. Sound insulation and new plasterboard.

I fitted a pre filter to the air inlet of our system so it's visible without removing any covers. Saves a lot of effort.

Is the tarmac the water permeable type? Is there a rainwater run off issue or did they add drainage?

It may not apply to you but once you own the house I'm not sure they can ammend your planning permission without your approval. I know you can apply for PP on land you don't own but normally the planners require the owner to agree.

Sometimes the small print says "details may vary" or "errors and omissions" etc

Just a heads up.. We have a different Clearwater bath and I recall they make two different sizes for many of their range.

We also have some oak posts on brick plinths. They are located using a length of 20mm stainless round bar sticking up into a hole in the bottom of the post. They hold up a small tiled roof overhang so no need to fix them down.

Put some washing up liquid in the weedkiller. Helps get it past the waxy coating on mares-tail. You might also try walking on it to crack the stems. Let the weedkiller do its thing for a few days before cutting..

Not sure about german regs but a bit of googling found.. https://www.rehau.com/downloads/1273612/awadukt-sewer-pipe-system.pdf

Why use anything? It will stop any water that does get in from escaping.

+2 Most underground pipe is brown/orange and stronger, more rigid than the grey indoor pipe. Might explain the dent?

If paving upto the house it's essential the final surface is 150mm below your DPC and there is a fall away from the house. In the front garden it's essential to ensure rainwater doesn't run onto the footpath/road because you need planning permission if rainwater isnt handled on site ( eg using a soakaway or draining onto flower beds etc). The fall away from the house might mean that a linear drain across the driveway to a soakaway is a good idea. They can also be used across garages etc.

Most weeds don't really grow up through the gaps they grow down into them. It's near impossible to prevent that - I resort to weedkiller. The Paving Expert website is great for all things paving.. Choosing.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/blocks03 https://www.pavingexpert.com/blocks Example specifications.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/specs01#specbpv In my experience the two key things to get right are the preparation (compacting the ground, compacting hardcore in layers, falls, drainage etc) and edging/kerbs especially on driveways but also if ride on mowers will drive over edges. If you don't get that right no matter how good it looks initially it won't last. Brick pavers are normally laid on sand over hardcore but if you change your mind to something else like Paving slabs they may be laid on mortar.. With some types of slab or on steps and capping stones it's essential to butter the back of them with a slurry primer not just lay them on mortar. If you don't they will come unstuck after a few years. I've used Ultrascape Pro Prime for this. Mortar should also be full coverage not dot and dab (With some types of stone the mortar pattern will show through as surface staining). Pictures from the Paving Expert site..

It should already be bedded on/in pea gravel. I would lift that section and a further 100-150mm down. Compact any loose ground using something like a fence post to pound it down. Fill with gravel raked to give you the required fall. Fit pipe and pour more gravel to cover it. https://www.pavingexpert.com/drain02

I'm sure all of us have learnt something just eavesdropping on someone's question and the replies. I know I have.

PS In case not obvious the gasket doesn't form any part of the pipe sealing. There are big clearance holes in it for the pipes. I made mine oversize, taped it to the wall, fitted WC and trimmed back with a razor blade.