Temp

By chance YouTube recommended this video on laser cleaning just now. I've no idea if it would work or even if available here..

Probably not. There might be something in the deeds that gives them the right to discharge into the shared tank, but even if not they might have acquired a right over time. Discuss with solicitor. Title deeds are cheap to download from the real land registry website.. https://eservices.landregistry.gov.uk/

Humm yes I'm wrong. Must just be testing on the plastic support trays but these aren't very strong. I used a vapour permeable membrane and insulation between rafters so didn't need vents.

+1 and very handy for moving things like washing machines in.

Self builders can reclaim UK VAT (which is collected by the seller or paid at the port on arrival in the UK) but not EU VAT (eg BTW collected by a Belgian supplier and paid to the Belgian Gov). The standard VAT rate in Germany is 19% so it looks like they charged you UK VAT but to reclaim it I believe you need an invoice with their UK VAT number on it.

Where does it drain to? Soakaway? Ditch? If your Septic Tank discharges into surface water (stream, river, ditch, surface water drain etc) it should have been replaced by a sewage treatment plant by 1st of January 2020 (might have been extended to 2022?) https://www.gov.uk/guidance/general-binding-rules-small-sewage-discharge-to-the-ground https://www.easymerchant.co.uk/blog/septic-tank-regulations/ Check what the deeds of all three properties say about their rights and responsibilities for maintenance costs etc. The biggest problems with any shared facilities occur when you have neighbours that don't pay their share or even cooperate with you when you offer to pay.

As I understand it the price rises last winter were kept lower than they might otherwise have been by promising to allow them to remain higher longer. eg to allow the shortfall to be recovered.

In other words they expect the "tilting fillet" to be a board (or tapered board) not lots of individual wedges.

I'd put a drain at the lowest point in the system you can.

+2 I've seen it done with simple angle irons bolted top and bottom but best get it designed. From google images...

I would also avoid going smaller. I think the next standard size down from 110mm is 82mm but I would only use if no alternative. I'd also keep the 82mm section as simple and short as possible. Make sure it can be rodded. Perhaps if you explain the situation we can think of a better solution?

Make sure you have claimed the CIL exemption if that's a thing in your area. That's the only thing that "starting" can really mess up for you. Keep the BCO happy with a letter apologising and explaining that you are aware someone is trying to stir up trouble but that you fully intend to submit a Building Control Application and will obviously be seeking his approval in the normal way before starting the development. BCO have some discretionary powers to bend the rules (Approved Documents) if you make a mistake but are more likely to do this if you have been making an effort to comply and help make his job easier. For example we discovered an issue with the opening width of a window. BCO said he would allow it if we uprated the door on that room. It would have cost a fortune to replace the window due to some oak framing.

It would but only if the MOT area is quite a bit wider than the paved area. Perhaps 1m wider depending on the height? If you taper the MOT down too rapidly it is likely to move or be washed out. I think some sort of edging/retaining/kerb looks better anyway.

We (only) used flexible adhesive and had cracks propagate through the stone. Only in one place at a doorway but annoying.

Do the deeds for either property say anything about the retaining wall? That's first place to look. Otherwise I think you need legal advice. Because of this.... https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Right_of_support In short you may only have a right to claim for damages to your land not to your house. I think you will need to build your own retaining wall fully on your property. Had the wall been on the boundary.... unless the deeds say otherwise, it is generally accepted that the wall its in shared ownership. The person whose land is retained by the wall is responsible for most or all of its repair and maintenance. He might have been guilty of criminal damage for destroying your share of the wall.

I built my own using an arduino with an RTC timer and memory card hat and a seperate opto isolator board to allow power to the boiler pump to be logged. Whenever the boiler pump changes state from ON to OFF or OFF to ON it logs the time and outside temperature to a file on SD card. I need to write an Excel script to process that data.

Think I would use same stuff as the fascia boards.

Its quite possible for planning and building control to insist on opposite things. Legally they aren't required to agree with each other so in extreme if it can't be resolved you can't have your windows and your room can't be a habitable room. What I would do... Would the neighbours complain if they saw you change it to an opening window? If not I would do that to keep the BCO happy. Heck make them all opening but keep those on your neighbours side shut for 10 years. Just open the other side. Planning are very unlikely to notice the breech unless the neighbour complains. After 10 years file an application for lawful development on the grounds that planning cannot initiate enforcement for a breech of planning condition after 10 years. If planning did get a complaint you could offer to fit restrictions, screw them shut (that woukd be a breech of Buikding Control but again they are very unlikely to do anything) or file an appeal. The appeal inspector might decide any overlooking issue is minimal and allow the appeal.

Not sure if this helps or clarifies... https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708#:~:text=Snagging (or the correction of,part of that building contract.

+1 The VAT reclaim process required you to provide evidence of practical completion and you used your council tax info for that. So you've told HMRC it's complete as far as they are concerned. After completion everything has to be standard rated.

PS Most door liners already have joints cut at the head so these would need to be modified to move the sides in a bit.

Most door liners are at least 22mm thick. For example Wickes are 27.5mm. I think you need to find 22mm liners then allow at least 5mm for packing to make the opening square and 2mm clearance around the door. So at least (22+5+2)*2= 58mm for the lining and clearances. So the door would need to be cut to 882-58=824mm wide. Your doors are 838mm wide so you would need to be able to trim about 838-824=14mm total or 7mm off both edges of the door. The amount you are allowed to cut off varies from make to mak and depends on the construction of the door. Some say only 5mm, others 12mm or more. I think I would check how much you are allowed to cut off the door each side. If it's enough make up a temporary liner from some 22mm timber and brace it up well so it's definitly square. Then try fitting it in all the openings. See how hard or easy it is before buying all the liners. It's 3:30 am so check my figures!

I think if there is water nearby I'd go for the mist sprinklers. Think they can use plastic pipe so perhaps not too hard to pull through the ceiling? https://mistek.co.uk

If its being valued for sale those are normally based on what the market will pay rather than the build cost. Some agents use a nominal figure per sqm to estimate market value. This is a lot more common in EU countries.

Was the loft being used as a habitable room like a bedroom or just storage space when you bought it? If it was as bedroom then house didn't comply when you got it. Ideally he would have spotted the problem but he hasn't made compliance worse. If it was sold as a storage space or similar and was converted to a bedroom as part of the renovation he should have made you aware of the issue and addressed it as part of the project. If its still only storage space you could try arguing with the BCO that it's not a habitable room so the escape route doesn't need enhancing, but if it's all neatly plasterboarded and decorated they won't agree. Overall if he has any liability I don't think it would be for the full cost, just extra cost of doing the work now rather than earlier. I can't remember if sprinklers are an alternative officially mentioned in the regs, or if this is something the BCO is allowing as a concession. If its the latter you need to keep the BCO on your side.