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Should be a simple job if the door is a reasonable match for the opening. Not all doors can be cut down without them coming apart. It can also look a bit odd if the frame isn't same width all the way around. Remember you probably need a level entry threshold to meet building regs.

Not just above lintels. Anywhere where the exterior leaf becomes an inner leaf.

If you have achieved the ridge height they want without a dormer I would just formally submit the application and fight at appeal if necessary. I recommend including images of what the house will look like with examples of other similar house in the area done in the same media, for example Pen and watercolor. Using the same media helps make your design blend in better. An artist might charge a few hundred for this or you might be able to use SketchUp. I think that can turn line drawings into pen and ink style using styles.

Probably should be a cavity tray an weep vents just above where the roof joins the wall.

Does the pipe have to go straight through the wall? Sometimes a dog leg just makes life easier. Flexible connectors have/had a bit of a bad reputation.

Red heat shrink sleeving about £1.40 🙂 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heat-Shrink-Tube-Sleeve-Various-Colours-Lengths-Sizes-From-1-2mm-25-4mm/141462328876?var=440611385286&hash=item20efcfd62c:g:YHwAAOSwDXZZ5MCz&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA8FXx0b7C+xu/WWF8RioQWKLAFrz5bWaIc2Gg85PJLBgEbVhYF5iiNcS0ptQx3IEsqzA+8XiFVM3WXHwrO4xcMizpYaTC/bgwPiR22GjUg5uy+RFq/h4s7Jvrn/r8EA7CKCU1pOpLy1yhtvmXwXmN2rdIIcHhZvmbueCyAf+AFZbjTi6o945fJZ2BCM965w9DgQgdnpqzI0Ja4pnNv6AkDSVwdq6ps6svaphI3xgOY79lfLbX0WU4ulX9nsL4XuwjiicQrihD/Dj3k118PcRJFvX/6449TAHy5GNP+OkKk9bDe7HPlRCJI3yjw3B9bHdCGQ==|tkp:Bk9SR9rzhc_MYg&pageci=3aa1ed6a-65fc-468f-874a-50bf6f722568&redirect=mobile

You can probably get red Plastidip but a new valve might be cheaper :-) Winter is coming, build an insulated cover for it?

We started building in 2005. Went for oil fired UFH. Decided to install a 300 L thermal store to give good flow rate for showers and try and reduce boiler cycling (Oil boilers don't modulate the flame down to suit demand, they cycle the flame on and off instead). This took some fettling to get it to work right, possibly because my boiler is a bit too big. These days I would fit a lot more insulation and aim for ASHP. If you really want oil I would probably fit two tanks instead of a thermal store. One tank used for DHW and one as a buffer for the UFH. That would be the easiest to switch to ASHP later. Our thermal store has too many pumps and mixers on it that leak a lot of heat into the room it's in. Fortunately that's not a problem other than one of cost - but I'm glad it's not in the master bedroom cupboard.

Na 5 years later its still good as new. Possibly because its a mild metallic red so has a clear coat.

See also.. https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat/1bac8eed-995b-ed11-97b2-00155d9c9a65

Pretty sure you cant reclaim anything before planning permission is granted. Their thinking is that before then it can't be associated with the new dwelling.. Google found.. https://www.mytipsandadvice.co.uk/2018-05/how-does-planning-permission-affect-zero-rating-UKTAVAAR_EU08070401

Many builders run fatter cables on the assumption that someone might want to replace their oven with an oven and hob in the future.

When we bought our red SMax the sales rep tried to upsell me a ceramic coating saying "red cars fade more than other colours". I didn't believe him.

I had half a dozen fail when a flourescent strip light was turned on in another room. Good job I was there to turn off the wall switch as several were smoking.

Currently stuck in house of Lords...

110 drainage pipe starts around £5/m so thats £1500 to £2000. If your pea gravel was 0.25m * 0.25m * 400m thats 25m^3. Density is about 1900kg/m^3 so 25*1.9 = 48 tons at £45/t = £2000 Digger and driver for a week or is that optimistic?

Bear in mind that some service engineers won't work in lofts. Think it's mostly the ones where you pay a monthly fee and they come do an annual service. I suggested to a relative that they ask the engineer to put fernox in the system and they refused saying they weren't allowed to go up into the loft to tip it into the header tank.

I have two second hand angle grinders of unknown make and hate them both. Watch out tor.... ON/Off switches that are near impossible to work or latch on when wearing gloves. Spring loaded locks you need to press to stop the disc rotating when undoing the nut. Nightmare trying to hold the grinder, hold the lock and work the spanner. This type of no tool quick release nut is great and fit most makes..

My understanding is that when all TRV are shut I believe the increase in pressure causes a bypass to open. This routes hot flow back to the boiler return. The flow temperature rises until the flow stat in the boiler shuts off. The boiler will eventually cool and light up again.

https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/help-and-advice/project-guides/pitched-roofing/how-to-install-breathable-roof-membrane/ Ensure draping occurs The breathable roof membrane should drape slightly between the timber rafters or counter battens, meaning there is a dip of around 10-15mm. Once you’ve checked that this is the case, add temporary clout nails to the top of the membrane – try to ensure they are above the line at which the second length of the membrane will overlap. When the tiles or slates are fitted they will provide a more secure fixing.

No. The membrane should drape/sag slightly between the rafters and not be tight under the battens. If you make it tight you risk dirt and pollen sealing the batten to the membrane and water pooling above the batten causing rot. Any water blown through tiles or slate should run down the membrane into the gutter passing under the batten. That said I think yours is much slacker and more wrinkled than it should be. Good.

Heard this on Radio 4 today.

Tell them if they put it in the loft you will insulate at rafter level. You could always just put a box of insulation over it instead.

If the wall straddles the boundary then it's party wall and you have a right to build off it. If the wall is on their side the boundary then you don't. Their roof and gutter overhang is technically a trespass if they didnt have permssion from the owner of your house. In that case you could in theory ask for it to be removed. If they refuse you could go to court BUT its quite common for judges award you modest damages instead of requiring its removal. This is a very common situation.. the plans show the extension will be built upto the boundary so that's where they start building the walls, conveniently forgetting the roof and gutters will overhang. Chances are the owner of your house didn't even realise what was going to happen until the wall was up. You need to consider the effect on the value of your houses. The will no longer be "detached" so estate agents can't describe it as such. Building off would turn them into semi detached even a terrace. Building off their wall.... This could be done. The main decision would be at what height should your roof meet the neighbours wall... a) Below their guttering. You build a valley gutter on your side to deal with water from your roof. This normally only makes sense if the neighbours house is on higher ground? b) Above their guttering. You remove their guttering and increase the height of the wall. You build a valley gutter on their side to deal with water from their roof. You have a conventional gutter which will overhang the boundary on their side. Needs their permission. c) Same height as their guttering. You remove their guttering and build a valley gutter that takes water from both roofs. With any option you need a builder who knows how to do valley gutters. Get this wrong and either you or the neighbour or both will have a leaky roof or damp wall. It's not rocket science but needs a good builder, roofer or lead worker. It needs to be both designed and built right. Building new wall on your side.. Ideally you would allow at least 800mm gap to allow for maintenance, gutter repairs etc. But you could build closer. If the gap is really small you get a problem with leaf debris collecting in the gap. If that builds up above the DPC it can cause damp issues. You probably want to allow say 300mm so you can get an improvised rake with long handle down there to clear it out every few years? If I was going down this route I would build my new wall just far enough away from their wall so it cleared their gutter by say 50mm. I'd build it a fair bit higher than theirs so my gutters were perhaps 1-2ft above theirs but dont overhang the boundary. I'd offer to replace their gutters and possibly their fascia boards with maintenance free.

By chance YouTube recommended this video on laser cleaning just now. I've no idea if it would work or even if available here..