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Temp

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Everything posted by Temp

  1. Hope you are in good health. Remember this thread...
  2. I checked and you are correct because no new dwelling is being constructed. If a new dwelling was being created there would be a cil liability on the 95 sqm even though it's less than 100sqm.
  3. Caution. I might be wrong but I think they only deduct the demolished space when calculating the amount of CIL to be paid, not when working out if the "new area" is over 100 sqm. So if you were to knock down 200sqm and rebuild 250sqm they would say the new area is 250 sqm which over the 100qm so the CIL must be calculated. The amount would be calculated on 250-200= 50sqm. If you start work before claiming the exemption you loose it.
  4. Thats OK. See section 28.. So you can dig within 3m provided you don't go deeper than the neighbours foundations.
  5. Most rear extensions would only need a PWA if the foundations need to go deeper than your neighbours foundation (in a terrace that normally means deeper than your own) or if you were building off their extensions or something like that. What reason did the surveyor give for needing one.
  6. The procedure is in here.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/preventing-and-resolving-disputes-in-relation-to-party-walls/the-party-wall-etc-act-1996-explanatory-booklet Basically can take months. If you get no reply or no agreement you are meant to appoint and pay for a surveyor to represent them separate to the one you are using. What work are you doing? There is no penalty for not complying with the PWA but if you caused damage and it went to court they might look less favourably on you for not complying.
  7. Cant comment on how much work or what can get retained without knowing how much insulation was fitted in the roof and walls. Even how it's installed can matter. Is the roof membrane a vapour permeable type? You might also need to make changes to doors on other floors as a loft conversion makes it the three storey house.
  8. Have they actually initiated enforcement action or just warned you that they will if you don't do xyz? If they haven't initiated enforcement action I would speak to a planning consultant asap about an application for a certificate of lawful development on the grounds it's too late to initiate enforcement action. You can always apply for separate PP later or at same time.
  9. Looks ok to me but I would request sample tiles for approval. Think I also want to see how the dry ridge looked compared to the neighbours. Do you have a chimney or vent pipes through the roof? What sort of flashing. Ideally ask to go see a house they are currently doing.
  10. Few trees and a hedge. Fertilize/lawn sand the lawn area to make it a darker green colour and cut it a different length. Perhaps check old aerial photos for any evidence of a boundary.
  11. Depends entirely on where the nearest transmitter is, how far away and how powerful. In some areas a length of wet string could probably be used. In others you need a tall pole and large aerial. In some cases you need a very directional aerial to prevent you picking up signals from the "wrong" transmitter. Ask/look at what your neighbours are using and which way they are pointing. In weak signal areas the the golden rules are.. Right type and size of aerial. As high as possible. If signal still weak only then use a mast head amplifier (goes at the top of the pole). +1 Excellent site.
  12. Are there any fences, hedges or ditches that form an obvious garden/field boundary? I think you will need Planning Permission either way because 6 acres is only about 2.5 Hectares so too small to be considered an "agricultural holding of five or more hectares, under Part 6, Class A of the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) Order.
  13. We have MVHR and opted for an extractor hood. I figured its not running a high percentage of the time and when it is it probably just gives the MVHR incoming fan an easier ride. It doesn't seem it affect our wood burner either.
  14. I think 230cm is a bit too low to build a separate false ceiling below it. Yes, wall plates normally same height as the joists. If the existing ceiling is very irregular building it as a separate ceiling would avoid having to make lots of different thicknesses of packing to get everything to the same height. Also avoids any further movement of the existing ceiling causing movement of the new.
  15. How high is the ceiling? If the result wouldn't be too low I would fit wall plates around the walls and use small joist hangers and new joists below the existing ceiling. No connection between the two. If the whole floor isn't really strong enough take down existing plasterboard. Sister the joists to strengthen. Sound insulation and new plasterboard.
  16. I fitted a pre filter to the air inlet of our system so it's visible without removing any covers. Saves a lot of effort.
  17. Is the tarmac the water permeable type? Is there a rainwater run off issue or did they add drainage?
  18. It may not apply to you but once you own the house I'm not sure they can ammend your planning permission without your approval. I know you can apply for PP on land you don't own but normally the planners require the owner to agree.
  19. Sometimes the small print says "details may vary" or "errors and omissions" etc
  20. Just a heads up.. We have a different Clearwater bath and I recall they make two different sizes for many of their range.
  21. We also have some oak posts on brick plinths. They are located using a length of 20mm stainless round bar sticking up into a hole in the bottom of the post. They hold up a small tiled roof overhang so no need to fix them down.
  22. Put some washing up liquid in the weedkiller. Helps get it past the waxy coating on mares-tail. You might also try walking on it to crack the stems. Let the weedkiller do its thing for a few days before cutting..
  23. Not sure about german regs but a bit of googling found.. https://www.rehau.com/downloads/1273612/awadukt-sewer-pipe-system.pdf
  24. Why use anything? It will stop any water that does get in from escaping.
  25. +2 Most underground pipe is brown/orange and stronger, more rigid than the grey indoor pipe. Might explain the dent?
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