Temp

I had half a dozen fail when a flourescent strip light was turned on in another room. Good job I was there to turn off the wall switch as several were smoking.

Currently stuck in house of Lords...

110 drainage pipe starts around £5/m so thats £1500 to £2000. If your pea gravel was 0.25m * 0.25m * 400m thats 25m^3. Density is about 1900kg/m^3 so 25*1.9 = 48 tons at £45/t = £2000 Digger and driver for a week or is that optimistic?

Bear in mind that some service engineers won't work in lofts. Think it's mostly the ones where you pay a monthly fee and they come do an annual service. I suggested to a relative that they ask the engineer to put fernox in the system and they refused saying they weren't allowed to go up into the loft to tip it into the header tank.

I have two second hand angle grinders of unknown make and hate them both. Watch out tor.... ON/Off switches that are near impossible to work or latch on when wearing gloves. Spring loaded locks you need to press to stop the disc rotating when undoing the nut. Nightmare trying to hold the grinder, hold the lock and work the spanner. This type of no tool quick release nut is great and fit most makes..

My understanding is that when all TRV are shut I believe the increase in pressure causes a bypass to open. This routes hot flow back to the boiler return. The flow temperature rises until the flow stat in the boiler shuts off. The boiler will eventually cool and light up again.

https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/help-and-advice/project-guides/pitched-roofing/how-to-install-breathable-roof-membrane/ Ensure draping occurs The breathable roof membrane should drape slightly between the timber rafters or counter battens, meaning there is a dip of around 10-15mm. Once you’ve checked that this is the case, add temporary clout nails to the top of the membrane – try to ensure they are above the line at which the second length of the membrane will overlap. When the tiles or slates are fitted they will provide a more secure fixing.

No. The membrane should drape/sag slightly between the rafters and not be tight under the battens. If you make it tight you risk dirt and pollen sealing the batten to the membrane and water pooling above the batten causing rot. Any water blown through tiles or slate should run down the membrane into the gutter passing under the batten. That said I think yours is much slacker and more wrinkled than it should be. Good.

Heard this on Radio 4 today.

Tell them if they put it in the loft you will insulate at rafter level. You could always just put a box of insulation over it instead.

If the wall straddles the boundary then it's party wall and you have a right to build off it. If the wall is on their side the boundary then you don't. Their roof and gutter overhang is technically a trespass if they didnt have permssion from the owner of your house. In that case you could in theory ask for it to be removed. If they refuse you could go to court BUT its quite common for judges award you modest damages instead of requiring its removal. This is a very common situation.. the plans show the extension will be built upto the boundary so that's where they start building the walls, conveniently forgetting the roof and gutters will overhang. Chances are the owner of your house didn't even realise what was going to happen until the wall was up. You need to consider the effect on the value of your houses. The will no longer be "detached" so estate agents can't describe it as such. Building off would turn them into semi detached even a terrace. Building off their wall.... This could be done. The main decision would be at what height should your roof meet the neighbours wall... a) Below their guttering. You build a valley gutter on your side to deal with water from your roof. This normally only makes sense if the neighbours house is on higher ground? b) Above their guttering. You remove their guttering and increase the height of the wall. You build a valley gutter on their side to deal with water from their roof. You have a conventional gutter which will overhang the boundary on their side. Needs their permission. c) Same height as their guttering. You remove their guttering and build a valley gutter that takes water from both roofs. With any option you need a builder who knows how to do valley gutters. Get this wrong and either you or the neighbour or both will have a leaky roof or damp wall. It's not rocket science but needs a good builder, roofer or lead worker. It needs to be both designed and built right. Building new wall on your side.. Ideally you would allow at least 800mm gap to allow for maintenance, gutter repairs etc. But you could build closer. If the gap is really small you get a problem with leaf debris collecting in the gap. If that builds up above the DPC it can cause damp issues. You probably want to allow say 300mm so you can get an improvised rake with long handle down there to clear it out every few years? If I was going down this route I would build my new wall just far enough away from their wall so it cleared their gutter by say 50mm. I'd build it a fair bit higher than theirs so my gutters were perhaps 1-2ft above theirs but dont overhang the boundary. I'd offer to replace their gutters and possibly their fascia boards with maintenance free.

By chance YouTube recommended this video on laser cleaning just now. I've no idea if it would work or even if available here..

Probably not. There might be something in the deeds that gives them the right to discharge into the shared tank, but even if not they might have acquired a right over time. Discuss with solicitor. Title deeds are cheap to download from the real land registry website.. https://eservices.landregistry.gov.uk/

Humm yes I'm wrong. Must just be testing on the plastic support trays but these aren't very strong. I used a vapour permeable membrane and insulation between rafters so didn't need vents.

+1 and very handy for moving things like washing machines in.

Self builders can reclaim UK VAT (which is collected by the seller or paid at the port on arrival in the UK) but not EU VAT (eg BTW collected by a Belgian supplier and paid to the Belgian Gov). The standard VAT rate in Germany is 19% so it looks like they charged you UK VAT but to reclaim it I believe you need an invoice with their UK VAT number on it.

Where does it drain to? Soakaway? Ditch? If your Septic Tank discharges into surface water (stream, river, ditch, surface water drain etc) it should have been replaced by a sewage treatment plant by 1st of January 2020 (might have been extended to 2022?) https://www.gov.uk/guidance/general-binding-rules-small-sewage-discharge-to-the-ground https://www.easymerchant.co.uk/blog/septic-tank-regulations/ Check what the deeds of all three properties say about their rights and responsibilities for maintenance costs etc. The biggest problems with any shared facilities occur when you have neighbours that don't pay their share or even cooperate with you when you offer to pay.

As I understand it the price rises last winter were kept lower than they might otherwise have been by promising to allow them to remain higher longer. eg to allow the shortfall to be recovered.

In other words they expect the "tilting fillet" to be a board (or tapered board) not lots of individual wedges.

I'd put a drain at the lowest point in the system you can.

+2 I've seen it done with simple angle irons bolted top and bottom but best get it designed. From google images...

I would also avoid going smaller. I think the next standard size down from 110mm is 82mm but I would only use if no alternative. I'd also keep the 82mm section as simple and short as possible. Make sure it can be rodded. Perhaps if you explain the situation we can think of a better solution?

Make sure you have claimed the CIL exemption if that's a thing in your area. That's the only thing that "starting" can really mess up for you. Keep the BCO happy with a letter apologising and explaining that you are aware someone is trying to stir up trouble but that you fully intend to submit a Building Control Application and will obviously be seeking his approval in the normal way before starting the development. BCO have some discretionary powers to bend the rules (Approved Documents) if you make a mistake but are more likely to do this if you have been making an effort to comply and help make his job easier. For example we discovered an issue with the opening width of a window. BCO said he would allow it if we uprated the door on that room. It would have cost a fortune to replace the window due to some oak framing.

It would but only if the MOT area is quite a bit wider than the paved area. Perhaps 1m wider depending on the height? If you taper the MOT down too rapidly it is likely to move or be washed out. I think some sort of edging/retaining/kerb looks better anyway.

We (only) used flexible adhesive and had cracks propagate through the stone. Only in one place at a doorway but annoying.