Temp

Attaching to the inside face not between. Much easier to get the sheets up tight against each other with no gaps. Mobile phone reception might be an issue due to the screening effect of the foil. Depends how big your doors and windows are and the orientation to the transmitter mast.

I'm considering replacing a kitchen in a retirement flat. It only really has room for two runs of units 1650mm long. Some of the layout options I'm considering require a 500mm wide Hob. For example.. Wall 600mm wide built in oven with pan drawer below 400mm wide drawer or cupboard unit 500mm wide Hob with drawer or cupboard below. 150mm wide gap (required by regs, could be used for trays) Wall Is it mad to consider a 500mm wide hob? I could fit a 600mm wide Hob but it would overlap the drawer unit. Would that mean loosing the top drawer or are there shallow induction hobs that fit in the thickness if the worktop? And in the other run possibly.. Wall 600mm wide fridge freezer 50mm gap? 1000mm wide sink unit 500mm cupboard/500mm drawers Wall Alternatively Google says you can put an induction hob above an oven if you get the ventilation right but is this wise?

Welcome. I think I would remove the existing insulation between studs to create a 50mm ventilated void to reduce risk of condensation. Fit 75-100mm foil covered insulation on the inside and tape up the joints with foil tape to form a vapour barrier. Then OSB and plasterboard for a decent finish or just plywood and paint. Not sure about the floor. How deep are the floor joists?

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2023/07/23/scotland-homes-sale-ban-swap-gas-boilers-heat-pumps-snp/ Homeowners in Scotland face being banned from selling their properties unless they swap gas boilers for heat pumps, under plans being considered by Humza Yousaf’s government. From 2025, properties will need to meet Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) rating of C or above at certain trigger points, including a sale. But the EPC ratings system will first be overhauled and more stringent green standards introduced, meaning some homes that currently achieve a C rating will be downgraded. It is understood that this could include giving a lower score to homes heated by gas boilers, forcing some owners to install a low carbon source of heating such as a heat pump before they could sell. Currently, EPC ratings take into account how costly it is to heat a home, but the Herald on Sunday warned reforms mean they could also include the type of heating. Patrick Harvie, the green zero carbon buildings minister, said the Scottish Government wanted “all homes to reach new energy efficiency standards by no later than 2033”.

Regular grout can be raked out but it's not super easy. There are grout removal tools. I have stone tile hatches over the cisterns in our bathrooms and just left them ungrouted. I suppose I could fill them with a strip of wood and a very thin layer of grout but haven't felt the need.

See diagram 17 row B.. If it came up through the flat roof within 2300mm of the parapet it would need to go 1m above the parapet. That's what I would do in your case where it runs up the outside of the wall. Remember it also needs to be at least 4.5m above the appliance. If there are any other buildings nearby it should really be higher than those as well. Edit: Row D suggest 600mm above the parapet might be OK but I'd go with 1m.

Only the once. I just asked the guy doing the annual service if he could fit a smaller one for me. Showed him the table in the installation manual. That was quite a few years ago now.

Best try and get a bat survey underway.

What else is in the same road/area? If there are other contemporary houses around would help. See Google images for "1960s contemporary homes" and see if anything appeals. It's surprising how modern some are.

Does the whole floor slope? Is it like a short ramp between two level areas? A hollow, so down and up again? One option might be to find a thin underlay and use carpet tape to stick layers together where the transition is.. ---- -------- ------------- Otherwise perhaps board over the room where its flat and use a self levelling compound intended for wood floors in the sloping area.

Yes the nozzle/jet in the burner. As I recall Grant boiler model numbers are the power in kW with different nozzles. So a 50/70 is 50kW with a small jet and 70kW with a big one. Most of the specs list power out and efficiency figures for three different size nozzles.

If you plan to let it all go silver its not really important. If you plan to paint it best avoid horizontal surfaces and sharp corners/edges and the paint will last longer. We have a lot of exterior oak treated with ozmo UV Protection oil to keep it honey colour and its the horizontal surfaces that go first. For the middle one I would screw up through 2 into 3. You can recess the screw head so it doesn't need to be very long. If you go for pressure treated soft wood I've found strimmers cut through the protection on fence posts and they rot out at ground level. Very noticeable as I have some posts that don't get strimmed and others that do. 9n some new posts I wrapped them them with heatshink sleeves designed for fence posts but they are messy and not sure if they work yet.

Lots of possible issues I'm afraid.. This will likely be considered a "raised platform" that requires planning permission as over 30cm? Planning permission also needed if you use any sort of non permeable surface like concrete, tarmac or paving without collecting any rainwater run off. May need some linear drains and a soakaway to prevent run off onto the road. An 80cm high retaining wall is about the limit for DIY design when it's just a lawn on top. If there is going to be a car top you probably should get it designed. Ensuring the made up ground is properly compacted will be vital or any paving or tarmac on top will sink. Building Control might also want to prevent falls over 80cm? Edit: Just noticed it's says 40cm on the image so that's a bit easier.

Some but not all thermostats have adjustable hysteresis. I think some also have anti cycling time delay built in. The overall effect is the same, you get slightly less precise temperature control. A thermal store or buffer tank stops the boiler short cycling but costs £. Another possibility is fitting a smaller jet in the burner. We did this after discovering our boiler was bit too big even in very cold weather. According to Grant the smaller jet is a bit more efficient as well. We haven't noticed issues with the smaller jet blocking. ..

We have 80mm and wish we had fitted more. If building again I think I'd fit at least 150mm.

Got a link to the manual so we can see what "100 (300)" means? Is that minimum 100mm but ideally 300mm? 100mm for a chain link fence but 300mm for a wall? Some models are designed for wall mounting where a wall in close proximity is expected. If it says the minimum distance to a wall is 100mm then it should be OK to put a tree trunk at 100mm.

I checked and you can only appeal for non-determination in the 6 months from the date your decision was due to arrive. So probably too late if the application was made 11 months ago.

Try this guide for installers... https://www.ofgem.gov.uk/sites/default/files/2022-05/Boiler Upgrade Scheme Installer Guidance.pdf Table 2 page 23

I had a quick look at the regs on what counts as a BUS heat pump and it says... https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2022/565/regulation/9/made So if you are allowed to retain an immersion heater surely you can retain the tank its in?

It's quite normal for the committee to let the PO write the actual Planning Grant and conditions but it usually happens quite quickly one they approve the application. Just keep an eye on the time limit for appealing for non determination or you loose the right and then they can take as long as they like. Appeals cost the council money so the mere threat of appealing might speed up the process.

Is there a loop pump on the manifold?

However you might come under.. I think in this case you should be charged 5% by trades, 20% on materials you buy and possibly reclaim the VAT paid on VAT431C? If that covers such a project.

+1 about not being experts on VAT but unfortunately I think HMRC are correct. Extract from VAT708 (my bold)..

This isnt my field (I'm an electronics engineer) but if the main issue is vibration you can also drill a contiguous concrete pile retaining wall then excavate.

If you get stuck you can build a retaining wall using sheet piling before removing the soil, then clad with something better looking.