Temp

+1 I hired one of those to put a load of posts in single handed. Just as I was finishing the last few a passing farmer tells me they usually just push them in with a back hoe.

There seems to be several ebay sellers with similar.. £209.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Modern-Bathroom-Vanity-Unit-Basin-Sink-Unit-2-Drawer-Storage-Cabinet-Furniture-/331283981510?var=&hash=item4d221064c6:m:m3C2hwSXq0sLYqdqQiIAi7w £295 but perhaps ask if would sell basin only? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/March-High-Gloss-White-Bathroom-Vanity-Furniture-Storage-Unit-Basin-Sink-Cabinet-/381765169533?var=650808453284&epid=1255889104&hash=item58e2fa317d:m:m-CNDVyg_55ODtJF6fbidlA Haven't checked exact sizes.

Get them to check the dimensions. An alternative would be to replace the basin with a sheet of white corian and put a free standing basin on top. May have to lower the cabinet on the wall.

+1 Building control recommend warm where possible... https://www.tendringdc.gov.uk/sites/default/files/documents/planning/building control/Flat roof guide.pdf

The under 15sqm (30sqm) rule is a Building Regs rule rather than a Planning rule BUT it only applies to outbuildings not extensions. House extensions (except porches and conservatories) normally need Building Control Approval whatever the size. Edit: An attached car port is only exempt if less than 30sqm and it's open on two sides.

I think the answer is to point out to the mortgage company that because you own both plots you already have a 'quasi-easement' and that the law only allows you to convert that to a full easement when one plot is sold. Perhaps ask your solicitor if it's possible to formalise this in some way? Perhaps by inserting a covenant in the deeds of the old house requiring the owner (currently you) to grant an easement if that was ever sold?

Wikipedia says.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Easements_in_English_law but it goes on to say.. so perhaps ask your solicitor about that reference 8 (Thompson, p. 500).

Possibly a Mk3 Mondeo Estate?

If you can't get it below £1700... That sure sounds like they would be "prohibited from occupation by law". PS: I would appeal the valuation on the grounds that they cannot be "vacant hut sites" because they don't have planning permission for a hut. They probably didn't know that they don't have PP. PPS: Would they value each site at £20m if you said you planned to drill for oil but hadn't got planning permission yet?

The real problem appears to the getting the robo toaster to figure out when to make the toast.. http://uk.businessinsider.com/mark-zuckerberg-on-toast-and-his-robot-butler-2016-7

Not sure if this helps unless you can beat them down from £2000 to £1700 http://www.edinburgh.gov.uk/info/20158/business_rate_reductions/758/non-domestic_business_rates_and_empty_properties Extracts.. Does your planning permission have any conditions that might prohibit occupation until a hut is erected? Does the design of each hut have to be approved for example?

What happens if the hutter isn't running their hut as a small business?

I also like Osmo but agree they can be expensive. The advantage that many "oils" and "waxes" have over "varnish" comes when you need to recoat them. Typically if a patch of varnish deteriorates or wears through then when you sand and recoat that patch remains visible or more visible than it does with oils and waxes. I'm in the process of sanding off a lot of Danish Oil on oak that has been neglected. I'm replacing it with one coat of Rustins Danish to darken the white oak to a light honey colour and then two coats of the Osmo Clear UV Protection Oil. Does look great. Hope it lasts longer than Danish oil as it's about four times the price.

Stumbled across this page which has DIY tips and tricks for boring short holes under pavements and the like for services. http://www.askthebuilder.com/tunneling-under-sidewalks-and-driveways/

If you use a good quality roofing membrane then it can be left exposed for a few months. I used VP400 and some of it was exposed six months with no apparent ill effect.

Actually you might get away with it if just pumping water from a basin rather than a toilet. Would a soakaway be an option?

Water to the garden building should be no problem. Just bury a length of MDPE pipe deep enough that it won't freeze in winter. Bring it up inside the building and perhaps use a pipe heater on a frost stat or turn off the water and drain fittings in winter? I don't think you can use a saniflow. See the "can" and "cannot" links on this page.. http://www.saniflo-pumpshop.co.uk/golden-rules-click-ordering/

+1 Just remember... as you shuffle your bottom backwards along the roof concentrating on the ridge tiles... look behind you every now and again :-)

Not sure about concrete tiles but for clay you sometimes need three types of tile.. Standard Tile and a half (for the verge) Eaves tiles (used at ridge and eaves) Sorry of you know this.

I'm an electronics engineer not an Electrician but... I think the exact set up depends on how the house is earthed but the most likely configuration would be something like... MCB in house CU -- Junction box --- SWA to garden building ---- SWA to shed In each outbuildings there would be a "Garage CU" containing an RCD and two MCB (1 lighting, 1 power) and an earth rod. Using the calculator at the TLC web site and an overall length of 32m.. 2.5mm^2 is ok up to 4kW 4mm^2 is ok up to 6kW 6mm^2 is ok up to 10kW Going up a cable size adds about £20 to the cost of a 50m reel.. Cable would be 2 core SWA (if the earth isn't exported from the house and earth rods are used). Would be 3 core if the earth can be exported. I put outside lights on my shed operated by a PIR. If you want a light on the shed that can be switched from the house end you might want an extra core or two? I used 3/8" polyprop rope to pull ours through. If you leave enough rope at the CU end you can pull the cable through AND leave the rope in the duct for future use.

In the end I couldn't really justify a Festool (>£450) and went for totally the opposite end of the range and got a 1500W Silver Storm 180mm sander/polisher for £42 off ebay. Been using 40 grit and it's made short work stripping 10 years worth of Danish Oil off a load of exterior oak posts and beams. So far I've done the equivalent of about 30 meters of 200mm square. Seems to be standing up to the hard work. Edit: Main problem is stopping my goggles misting up.

Google Pestplug comes in 10 foot (and 25 foot) rolls.

Screwfix has two mowers that use Briggs & Stratton engines and might be worth a look... McCulloch M46-140WR at £199 (although see one negative review). Mountfield SP185 at £250 Amazon have a big 21" (530mm) Lawn-king (which I've never heard of) also with a Briggs & Stratton for £299. Perhaps look at a second hand Honda mower Izy? Things I would check on any mower... * The size of the bag. Some are supplied with small bags but they sell optional bigger ones. * The ease of getting the bag off when it's full. Many mowers have a deadman handle so you have to stop the mower, empty the bag, pull start it again. * The height adjuster. Some are a bit flimsy and require three levers to be moved, one for the rear wheels and one each for the fronts.

Can't tell from the photo but sometimes the shear pins fail allowing the blade to rotate on the shaft and "ride up" over the broken pins making it a funny angle. I purchased a Honda powered "unbranded" mower from a DIY store when we were living abroad some 20 years ago. Engine has been faultless despite it never being serviced. Well I think I changed the oil once and perhaps cleaned but not replaced the air filter a few times. I don't know if there is anything like this still being made. Perhaps have a look in some of the UK DIY stores. Only problem is the deck is now starting to rust through. One advantage of a real Honda mower like the IZY is that you can get replacement decks for them if you really wanted (just over £100 on ebay).