Temp

Is the CIL in your area? To qualify for the self builder CIL exemption you must do some paperwork before starting any work on site. I think you may need advice on how to proceed given he may have started some work. Perhaps if you now got permission for a new design (with no demolition mentioned) you can argue that no work has been done on the new application ??

At the very least it sounds like the vendor should somehow formalise any right of access they have over the triangle of land. Speak to your solicitor about it. Once the plot is yours they won't want to know.

If you think the vendor might be able to claim adverse possession then i think it will take at least two years to resolve. I believe the real owner has that long to object to any claim. The process differs depending if the land is registered or not.

Check who owns the triangle yourself or get your solicitor to do a map search at the land registry. Do not rely on what the vendor says. What exactly do they mean by "owned by the government? Which bit of government? Beware that the government or council haves duty to obtain best value for the tax payer when they sell assets. So watch out if it amounts to a ransom strip. The rules on adverse possession say you have to occupy the land in the belief that you own it. So you have to maintain that pretence in all dealings with the land registry. Making an offer to purchase or doing a land registry search and reading the results might be sufficient to rule out any claim for adverse possession. The land also has to be fenced off "to the exclusion of all others" for around 10 years so that would preclude using it for the turning area.

See.. 3.2.1 https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction A qualifying building is constructed when.... Doesn't help a lot but does allow cellars to be retained.

If the road is unadopted and privately owned by that company...are you sure a new house would have a right of access over it?

In most cases it will depend how defined the building line is. If all other house are exactly in line then chances are the planner will want new house to be in line as well. If it's more irregular then they will be more flexible. They might also object if the house was so far back that the planners consider it sets a precident for building another row of houses behind the existing line. Sometimes they refer to this as "backland development".

Can be same resistance. Our plot is between a 16c cottage, on the building line, and a church set back from it. We wanted to build mid way between the two because the plot was narrower at the front. Planners kept insisting we build in line with the cottage not further back. Spent a year and about £10k trying to get what we wanted approved. About to give up but decided to get a planning consultant to review our plans. By accident we found one that had been involved with a previous owner of the plot. He had a letter the planners had sent the previous owner which said "a house further back might be better"!!!! I could have kissed him and punched the planning officer. When we showed the planning officer the letter they rolled over and agreed our application, but we never got back that year of our life.

+1 Adding a door or window is normally permitted development once a house is finished. So they are very unlikely to issue an enforcement notice if they discover a door not on your plans. What would be the point? You could comply with the enforcement notice by bricking it up then immediately unbrick it under permitted development.

Not sure but I think its available in different colours if that matters.

+1 Some things can be zero rated if they are deemed to be "closely connected to the construction of a new dwelling" but they don't usually include consultants or similar. Check out paragraphs 3.3.4 to 3.3.7... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction

+1 Some manifolds have thermostatic mixers on them allowing you to limit the temperature going to the floor but it usually limits all loops on that manifold which you may not want.

I think you want someone that does corporate law with a hint of property on the side.

On top or in the screed? Is this wet UFH or electric mats?

In case it helps... You no longer need a 150mm step between an attached garage and the house. Can be same height provided it slopes away from the door to the house. Check the regs.

How much current (Amps) can they give you on one phase? If you are planning an all electric house (ASHP, multiple showers, electric car charging point?) then check they can give you enough.

I'd wait until it's been tiled before measuring for this one. Edit: Ah ok I see you're just having a screen not screen and door. That's less critical.

Instead of using underground T connectors I'd bring the blue HDPE mains feed up through into the house using 110mm drain pipe as a conduit. Right next door, perhaps in the same 110mm pipe install another length of HDPE going back down and out again to the static caravan. Connect the two temporarily say 12-18" above FFL. Wrap loads of insulation around it. Later fit suitable valves so you can turn off water to the house or just to the static van. If you replace the static van with a shed it can be handy to have a water supply out there.

Can't claim to be an expert but have heard that a bad connection between Neutral and Earth on a three phase system can cause over voltage. It certainly sounds like you had an over voltage event if you have had multiple failures and smoke coming out of a sky box. I think you should also speak to your house insurance company. Perhaps the would consider paying for an investigation to reduce the chances of further claims?

Are the trees self seeded or were they planted in rows?

I agree you need proper advice... If the woods are counted as part of the curtilage of your house that might increase SDLT but I guess it might also make it easier to build on from a planning perspective. You could try asking the Planning Department if they consider the woods to be within the curtilage of the house and using that to challenge the SDLT paid to the HMRC. I think you also need to check out the rules on Capital Gains tax. The exemption on your Principle Private Residence has a gotcha that catches you if it's over 1.2 acres. https://www.gov.uk/tax-sell-home

I've had set of these for quite awhile and used them to drill holes in farm gate hinges (galvanised steel). Found them ok. Makita P-51873 HSS Titanium-Plated Drill Bit Set 16Pcs £25 https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-p-51873-hss-titanium-plated-drill-bit-set-16pcs/94051 Yesterday I found them on Amazon for just £15 and have reordered. Should be here Monday. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007RCCPC0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Government allows 1million more non-portable smart meters to be installed... Why not just delay the project two months? https://www.telegraph.co.uk/bills-and-utilities/gas-electric/another-million-substandard-smart-meters-will-put-homes/

Do you have to run MVHR pipes horizontally in the floor? Could you run the pipes vertically in a corner? They are likely to have to go vertically as well anyway.

Is the COP really only 7.7/4.5 = 1.7 ? Does it improve at say half power?