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Easting & Northing are coordinates for a point on the plot. Ideally you use a GPS to accurately find that point on the ground (unless the surveyor picked a landmark like a tree or or marked its position with a stake etc). I also recommend buying a 60m tape and double checking the dimensions of the plot vs the survey plan and title deed.

Make sure you get ALL of the CIL exemption paperwork sorted before you start any work on site or you may loose the exemption. If in doubt ask.

If you are going doing a Building Control Application you normally send them a full set of plans and other documents with the application. The BCO will look over the plans and write back with a request for any extra info he needs. That might be anything from evidence that soakaways will work (soil percolation test required) to engineering calculations for steel beams (Structural Engineer might be needed to do some sums). Eventually he will agree that what you have submitted is ok and you can start work on site. He will usually want to inspect the bottom of the foundation trenches before you fill them.

The pooling restriction applies to all areas regardless if they have introduced the CIL or not. However I'm not 100% certain if the pooling restriction applies to ALL planning obligations or just S106 agreements. As I understand it the pooling restriction could apply to any planning obligation if it is a "reason to grant planning permission" but they don't usually say its a reason to grant.

Good question. Which is it?

Just to add to my post above... Googling formwork tiles finds there are quite a few makes.

These tiles might be an option... https://tile.expert/en-gb/tile/Energieker/Formwork I'm on my phone at the moment and it's hard to see the images but they look like tiles intended to produce the shuttered effect.

PS This change was meant to encourage councils to adopt the CIL to which you would be exempt.

Regarding the Section 106 agreement... The government changed the rules in 2015 so that councils can only collect ("pool") 5 different section 106 contributions for the same thing (That's five after April 2010). It seems very likely your council will have asked for more than 5 unilateral undertakings for "open space" since 2010 so how can they still be insisting on more? That said I've read here that some councils are bending/breaking the rules. More on this here.. https://www.ashfords.co.uk/news-and-events/general/pooling-contributions-regulation-123-of-the-community-infrastructure-levy-regulations-2010 I could probably find a link to the legislation if needed.

I think that fireplace works because they apply a texture first then press in relatively sharp/low area grid lines. If you wanted to get a wood grain effect you would have to press in the larger area of a flat board. The force required would be a lot higher. I guess it might be possible to press in a small board? Give it a try.

If we assume each pour is 0.7m high (about 2ft) the average pressure is.. H*Rho*g/2 Where H is the depth and Rho the density of concrete = 0.7*2400*9.81/2= 8,240 N/sqm. That's a force equivalent to 840kg per square metre pushing out sideways. If it moves or bends then the concrete pours out of the bottom. Make sure the shuttering is well designed. Your carpenter might not be the best person to do this.

One possibility, but a lot of work, might be to make your own concrete "paving' slabs and then "tile" the wall with them. Each slab would have to be made in a wooden mould. I made coloured paving slabs that way with my dad about 1970.

Beware that any kind of form work for liquid concrete has to be very strong. The pressure at the bottom doesn't depend on the thickness of the concrete only the height. The density of concrete is high so the forces on formwork can be huge. Manually pressing large areas/planks of wood into cement/plaster that is dry enough not to slump off the wall would also take a huge force.

Also found this from NICEIC.. https://professional-electrician.com/technical/changes-code-practice-emergency-lighting/

Google found these but they might be out of date? I would have thought any good installer would have their own similar forms? https://www.elecsa.co.uk/Documents/Public-Documents/Contractors/Model-Fire-Alarm-Certificate.aspx and http://www.shepleyelectricalservices.com/Emergency Lighting Completion.pdf Is that what you are asking for or are you asking about which parts of the standards apply?

In a fire magnets loose their magnetism don't they?

Ideally they should trip when they detect a short between live and earth not wait until the remote leak is via a human!

You definitely need planning permission to build anything between B and the road, eg in that box on your drawing. That's because of paragraph/point 3 here... https://www.planningni.gov.uk/index/advice/advice_apply/advice_apply_homes/advice_around_home/advice_home_structures.htm 3. No part of the shed / greenhouse / building is in front of the principal or side elevation of the original house that faces onto a road. It seems clear to me that B is (at least) a side elevation facing a road. Edit: in fact side C is the only place you could put an outbuilding without planning permission as all other elevations face a road.

I share your frustration with the planning rules. I had a quick look at your photos and I think your first issue is to work out if the proposed location is "forward of a wall forming the principal elevation" of your house. The principal elevation is normally the side facing the road but it's not 100% clear to me which elevation that is on your house. What looks like the side to us, the planners may call the principal elevation. You may have to get that determined by the planners.

Ask for a discount.

This web site uses three words to identify any place on earth to within 3meters.. https://what3words.com So for example the entrance to Downing Street is cheer.daily.vanish. So why not look up the square for your front door and the three words it's been allocated. Then name your house that so the three words are in your address. Means any delivery driver with the app can easily find you.

How does the new height compare with other houses nearby? I would spell that out in any revised application.

It took us several days to compare and correct three quite different quotes because they had made different assumptions or ignored things. If after that exercise you still get wildly different quotes consider getting a Quantity Surveyor to work out what he thinks it would cost to build. It's not cheap but then you know which of the quotes is the most realistic or which has under priced the job and might not hang around to finish it.

My understanding is that using a mole is far better for the trees than even hand dug trenches. However you need pits at intervals to start/end and change direction. See para 4.5 if this link works.. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.rossendale.gov.uk/planx_downloads/2012-0517_Guidelines_for_Utility_Services.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj20Ynf-qDhAhWyThUIHaVyBqoQFjATegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw1SBK9Pejit1n9k6AbUPUKq

You could reply saying that you understand they must charge VAT on everything but they must also charge it at the correct rate or they commit an offense. Not everything is standard (20%) rated. Some things are 5% and others such as work on a new dwelling must be charged at 0% (Note that 0% is not the same as VAT exempt).