Temp

Check if they left an expansion gap around the edge? Was the oak just laid on the screed of has glue failed?

Am I right in thinking the Combinate just passes water over the balls? If so you might be able to make one from a water filter and refill balls for a less than they charge for the device.

Section 2E of Approved Doc A also has guidance on the minimum depth (eg how deep the bottom of the foundation should be) in section 2E4 and the thickness in 2E2. In practice you dig down to the depth recommended in 2E4 and fill it up with concrete to a depth that is a convenient multiple of brick or block courses below the required DPC/FFL level (Checking that the resulting thickness is greater than needed to meet 2E2). That way you don't need to cut blocks to make thinner courses. Some people use more concrete and fewer courses of blocks than needed to meet 2E2. This is sometimes called fully filled foundations but that doesn't mean they are always filled right to the very top just close. It can make sense especially if building in winter/wet weather as your trenches are less likely to fill with water or collapse. You still want to be a convenient multiple below DPC. I think the NHBC also require there to be a cavitiy 225 mm deep below DPC. So that may also limit how high you fill your trench.

Ideally you need to know the load bearing capability of the ground (in Newtons per square meter) and the load (in Newtons). Then it should be easy to divide one by the other to give the required area (in square metres). The issue is what safety factor should be included as well as other precautions (particularly for soft ground or clay). Table 10 in Approved Documents A give some guidance on the width of strip foundations required for different soil types and load. The issues and maths are similar. I'm not an SE though.

@JSHarris has pretty much covered the options. Beware there are numerous gadgets on the market, some for very high prices that are best avoided. The Advertising Standards Authority has ruled many times on the claims made for clip on magnetic, electronic or fairy crystal based gadgets that claim to be able to soften water and remove limescale. The general rule appears to be that in the UK such gadgets cannot claim to soften water unless they remove the calcium/magnesium. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_water_treatment "Magnetic water treatment is regarded as unproven and unscientific".

It might be possible to ask the supplier for a "Performance Bond" but they will pass on the cost to you. You also need evidence they have paid and continue to pay the premium. I'm not very familiar with these and you might need legal advice to ensure the wording of the bond covers everything you need it to. https://www.thebalancesmb.com/builders-guide-to-performance-bonds-844795 It says typical costs are 1-2%. That might mean the premium is too low to be of interest to providers on low value projects?

+1 to that. Just make sure you know the rules. The >£100 amount must be a deposit for the windows. If necessary pay another >£100 by CC for installation so both are covered by same CC company. Some companies hide in small print that the windows and installation are separate contracts. It may say they act as agents for the installer and your contract for installation may turn out to be with another company or even a subsidiary of the same company. Subtle differences like this can invalidate a claim against the CC card co if the company that goes bust isn't the one you actually paid. If there is anyone "in the middle" of the transaction the card co may have a get out.

The key feature of that system is that the UFH system is on top of the structural floor deck. So important to set joists 50mm lower than would otherwise. Especially important if using a mix of different systems in the house.

I accidentally "liked" this post above. I'm not keen/convinced about their "turning boards" that seem to need a thin layer of levelling compound. Would they be as strong/stiff as the cement boards?

I would ask them if the cement boards can be laid direct on joists and tiled. I doubt they will say yes but if they do then laying on battens should work. The problem is tiles need a quite rigid floor. Any flex when teenagers dance on them will cause trouble.

Thanks for that. Will have a look. Someone also suggested white glass might be an option. I can imagine polished glass would show scratches though.

Done.

So from their point of view they have only had a valid application for three weeks. I wouldn't go stirring them up just yet. If you are confident the foundation design is correct you could write to them and let them know it is your intention to start work on <date> unless they have identified any issues with the plans by <a few days before date>. Add a line that says something like "We anticipate you will wish to inspect the foundation trenches before they are filled and will contact them when we reach that stage". Try and keep a good relationship with the BCO because they can bend the rules to help you out when you need it. Ours spotted a problem with a window that didn't comply with the regs and which would have been very expensive to fix. He allowed it provided we made a minor change to a door elsewhere. Saved us about £5k. I know it's frustrating but if you start insisting they stick to the letter of the rules don't be surprised if they expect you to do the same later.

We have a 1.5 storey house. Only thing I would do differently is put more insulation in the roof pitches. We appear to have an issue with solar gain through the roof itself.

I'm not sure it's really made things easier. At the end of the day most of the cables from network cupboard to rooms end up connected to a multi port hub. The choice is do they plug directly into the hub or via a patch cabinet. As I very rarely make changes they might as well be plugged in directly. Incidentally I have a 16 port hub and never thought they would all be used but I just used the last port recently.

Humm I guess I better have a rethink.

With close coupled check the seat will stay up.

We have three back to the wall pans. Important to get the pipes the right height and support them with wood braces so they don't move when you push the pan into place. Otherwise the only problem we have had is with the chrome wearing off the flush button.

Perhaps put some food colouring in the water so the leaks shows up on the photos you send the company.

I have a travertine worktop top under a washbasin. Despite sealing it gets stained easily and I'm considering replacing it with white Corian or similar. Anyone got corian worktops and how do they perform? If you leave a wet copper coin on it would that be a disaster?

The few I've played with come preset to a marked pressure but can be adjusted later. If it can't be adjusted I wouldn't fit it because they do seem to need it every few years.

Some makers of summer houses probably have line drawings on their web site. Failing that scan a photo into a cad prog and draw over it on another layer. Something like the free Paint.NET from https://www.getpaint.net/ can do this part reasonably easily.

I wasn't able to google that info but found whole tails with rings for £3:45 inc delivery from UK seller on eBay. Swap the rings over if not right length? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10mm-x-1-2-BSP-Fitting-Basin-Monobloc-Mixer-Tap-Connector-Flexi-Hose-Pipe-Tails/162644180159?epid=2202974869&hash=item25de593cbf:g:CJwAAOSw~T9aawZt&redirect=mobile

Amazon seem to have a good price on the Netgear 5 port switches.... £14 inc prime delivery. Not used this on myself but I have an 8 port which isn't much more. https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B07PYSNSDD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=netgear+switch&qid=1567497572&s=gateway&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFRUlFGRlZZMkxGRkcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxMzg1OTIyS1g0R0xLQjlVQUlNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxNDU0MDk2SlNDRzJMSkc4VEomd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Perhaps see Table 10 in Approved Document A Structure. Gives guidance on foundation width vs load for various soils.