Temp

I would ask them if the cement boards can be laid direct on joists and tiled. I doubt they will say yes but if they do then laying on battens should work. The problem is tiles need a quite rigid floor. Any flex when teenagers dance on them will cause trouble.

Thanks for that. Will have a look. Someone also suggested white glass might be an option. I can imagine polished glass would show scratches though.

Done.

So from their point of view they have only had a valid application for three weeks. I wouldn't go stirring them up just yet. If you are confident the foundation design is correct you could write to them and let them know it is your intention to start work on <date> unless they have identified any issues with the plans by <a few days before date>. Add a line that says something like "We anticipate you will wish to inspect the foundation trenches before they are filled and will contact them when we reach that stage". Try and keep a good relationship with the BCO because they can bend the rules to help you out when you need it. Ours spotted a problem with a window that didn't comply with the regs and which would have been very expensive to fix. He allowed it provided we made a minor change to a door elsewhere. Saved us about £5k. I know it's frustrating but if you start insisting they stick to the letter of the rules don't be surprised if they expect you to do the same later.

We have a 1.5 storey house. Only thing I would do differently is put more insulation in the roof pitches. We appear to have an issue with solar gain through the roof itself.

I'm not sure it's really made things easier. At the end of the day most of the cables from network cupboard to rooms end up connected to a multi port hub. The choice is do they plug directly into the hub or via a patch cabinet. As I very rarely make changes they might as well be plugged in directly. Incidentally I have a 16 port hub and never thought they would all be used but I just used the last port recently.

Humm I guess I better have a rethink.

With close coupled check the seat will stay up.

We have three back to the wall pans. Important to get the pipes the right height and support them with wood braces so they don't move when you push the pan into place. Otherwise the only problem we have had is with the chrome wearing off the flush button.

Perhaps put some food colouring in the water so the leaks shows up on the photos you send the company.

I have a travertine worktop top under a washbasin. Despite sealing it gets stained easily and I'm considering replacing it with white Corian or similar. Anyone got corian worktops and how do they perform? If you leave a wet copper coin on it would that be a disaster?

The few I've played with come preset to a marked pressure but can be adjusted later. If it can't be adjusted I wouldn't fit it because they do seem to need it every few years.

Some makers of summer houses probably have line drawings on their web site. Failing that scan a photo into a cad prog and draw over it on another layer. Something like the free Paint.NET from https://www.getpaint.net/ can do this part reasonably easily.

I wasn't able to google that info but found whole tails with rings for £3:45 inc delivery from UK seller on eBay. Swap the rings over if not right length? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10mm-x-1-2-BSP-Fitting-Basin-Monobloc-Mixer-Tap-Connector-Flexi-Hose-Pipe-Tails/162644180159?epid=2202974869&hash=item25de593cbf:g:CJwAAOSw~T9aawZt&redirect=mobile

Amazon seem to have a good price on the Netgear 5 port switches.... £14 inc prime delivery. Not used this on myself but I have an 8 port which isn't much more. https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B07PYSNSDD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=netgear+switch&qid=1567497572&s=gateway&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFRUlFGRlZZMkxGRkcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxMzg1OTIyS1g0R0xLQjlVQUlNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxNDU0MDk2SlNDRzJMSkc4VEomd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Perhaps see Table 10 in Approved Document A Structure. Gives guidance on foundation width vs load for various soils.

I'm afraid I've not found TP-Link kit reliable long term but perhaps its just me. Netgear has been ok as has DrayTek.

No it's just the length in the wood that matters. I had an issue with stainless steel screws shearing off until I got the pilot hole size right - but stainless isnt as strong as regular steel.

Beware very over long screws need more torque and can have problems shearing off heads.

With a structural ridge don't you normally need strapping to connect one side to the other over the top of the beam? Eg rafters "hang" from the beam.

Oh bother, I was there a few months ago and never knew.

Our council were pretty good. Out of the blue I got a letter stating that they thought I would be complete on a date that was a few months earlier than we thought. I wrote back giving them my predicted date and they agreed it with no fuss or questions.

If i build again I wouldnt bother with a patch panel.

Mine is a walk in cupboard about 18" deep. Standard door matches the rest in the house. In ours we have: CU for the house. Phone master socket Modem Network patch panel (probably wouldn't bother next time) 16 port Hub. Cheap Network Attached Storage drive (backup our PCs). DECT Base Station for cordless phones (another upstairs). TV distribution amplifier Burglar alarm panel. I also have a NAS server and hub (with POE ports) for 4 wired Network cameras in the loft. Many mains adaptors for the above plugged into two wall mounted extension blocks. The back wall of our cupboard is plywood on battens which hides all the network, TV and mains wires. Being plywood means its easy to mount something later like a small shelf or additional network hub. PS: just about everything has ended up connected to everything else. For example I ended up running phone and alarm signals over the wired network.

I recently started using some Power line kit (network over the mains). Apparently this works best if the transmitter and receiver are on the same mains circuit. This implies it might be worth putting the consumer unit in the network cupboard as then the power line transmitter would be reasonably close to all mains circuits allowing you to plug in an RX almost anywhere in the house. I'm using a cheap kit to send network out to my shed some 50m away (SWA cable) so I can have WiFi in the garden. I haven't tested the max speed over the mains part of the link but the following path... WWW.Fast.com - Internet - Our Modem - Powerline Tx - house CU - 50m swa underground - "Garage" CU - 10m mains circuit in shed - Powerline Rx with built in WiFi AP - 5m - Tesco Huddle ...manages about 30Mbit/s which is about as good as I can get from the wifi AP in my modem.