Temp

Personally I love tiling walls. I've mentioned it before but my Dad was into DIY and taught be how to level tiles with a rubber faced block he called a Blat/Blatt. I've not been able to buy one for years so recently made a new one. You use a notched trowel to create ridges in the adhesive which can be squashed down to adjust the depth and angle of the tile to match its neighbours..

+1 Its quite possible to have a mixed system. Most UFH manufacturers have a manifold with valve/mixer on the front end that is designed to be connected to a rad based system, typically its connected to the nearest rad to the extension. Personally I wouldn't bolt on UFH like that. I would run separate pipes from the boiler to the UFH so the UFH can be on its own zone/stat. That way it can call for heat independently to the rads. eg UFH can call for heat when the rads are off.

The loop flow temperature sets the maximum power output. If you set it too low the room temperature might not reach the temperature set on the stat when it's very cold outside. So monitor the set and actual room temperatures in January.

I think 14mm is way beyond what you should fix with adhesive (You would need a trowel with massive notches). It really looks like a floor prep issue. Not really sure what to recommend. If you can't face getting him to rip it all up try scribing the bottom of the skirting to match. Yes it's a bodge but should make it less noticeable.

Consider what happens if the relative drops down dead the day after purchasing the place. You might have no contract with whoever inherits it or the tax man. Ideally you should buy the place together and get your respective shares listed in the title deeds. Lets assume all goes well. I don't think he can just "give" you the plot as there are tax rules on the transfer of land. I believe it would be counted as a sale at the new improved value it has once planning permission has been granted. The relative might have to pay CGT if the land isn't part of his garden/PPR. I think you need proper legal advice.

Good question. Some LED transformers come with 4 wires pre-fitted. These typically use Blue and Brown for the Neutral and Live, and Red and Black for the output to the LED. A few use a pair of white wires for the output to the LED. Examples Red & Black https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/led-drivers/1314709?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Displays_And_Optoelectronics-_-Led_Lighting_System_Components|Led_Drivers-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-448230579044&s_kwcid=AL!7457!3!243856786484!!!g!448230579044!&gclid=CjwKCAiAlajvBRB_EiwA4vAqiBjcwAYuXAuSTLcWupBLaDa8c9_zxDSwP5aH7y6xnNez7IjKBjWLOxoCFmUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds White: https://www.amazon.co.uk/LED-Driver-Transformer-240V-Interference/dp/B00BMBKHC2 In the regulations.. Mains voltages (eg 240V) are "Low Voltage" or LV LCD voltages (<50V) are "Extra Low Voltage" or ELV. Not sure if this is current but.. https://electrical.theiet.org/media/2063/bs-7671-2018-corrigendum-dec-2018.pdf It says.. I believe both of the wires between the LED controller and LED lamp should be treated as line conductors so you could use any of those colours.

When we built our house we left one bathroom unfinished. Quickly became a store room. 12 years later I'm just starting to finish it. The water in the Geberit cistern is 12 years old yet still clear. Supply is off so surprised it hadn't all evaporated away. Mains water no softener.

Got a link to the LED and transformer?

I tried injecting spray foam into a stud wall in a garage once. Went round the other side to find the foam had expanded so much it had pushed the plasterboard off the wall so the wall now looked pregnant.

Screwfix also have red & black.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/nexans-speaker-cable-2-core-x-24-strand-25m-black-red/8895t

If you just need wire.... 0.5mm^2 red and black speaker cable.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-METERS-2-X-0-5MM-Red-and-Black-Speaker-Cable-Auto-HIFI-Boat-speaker-wire/152132141794?hash=item236bc842e2:g:feQAAOSw-dBTv8Um&redirect=mobile If you need connectors each end these will be specific to the make of LED fitting.

Most manufactures recommend a mortar mix (4 or 5 parts sand to 1 of cement and some plasticiser). Should probably prime the WBP with PVA first. Think the idea is to ensure the uneven underside of the tray is supported uniformly to prevent the tray cracking. Some make this a warranty requirement. Probably a few YouTube vids on this.

WBP = Water Boil Proof Plywood. Sometimes also called Marine Ply. Quality of this stuff can vary a lot so if your timber merchant offers several different grades pay for the best. I had some which was sold as WBP but delaminated quickly when damp. Concrete blocks should be fine. Our tray is a massively heavy Travertine tray that needed four people to get upstairs. Builder said it was the heaviest tray he ever installed. No sign of any movement after 12 years. However we have had water getting between tiles and tray. I noticed a damp patch downstairs a few years ago and for a horrible moment thought it was the trap leaking. Turned out it was just water that had escaped the tray through the door hinge gap. Sealing between tray and floor tiles was redone and it was sorted.

PS We filled in the hole with a pressure treated wood frame (4x2) and thick WBP on top with a hole where the trap had to go. PPS You can set the tray into the floor a bit if falls allow but I would leave the top about 5mm higher than the finished floor level will be after tiling. That way the plastic door seal won't scrape on the tiles when the door is opened. Might allow a bit more just in case the tiles aren't 100% level ?

We have same. Use a "top access" trap. McAlpine and others make them. The water seal in these is formed by concentric tubes instead of a U bend. The inner tube can be removed from above to clean the trap. Never need to access from below. Follow the instructions but the basic idea is... Plumb the bottom of the trap into place and support it at right height. Check the position by lowering the tray on top temporarily. Test for leaks. When happy mortar bed the tray. Then seal around the tray hole and screw the top part through the tray into the bottom of the trap. Check tray is level again. Later you fit the inner tube of the trap and the mushroom cap, bot of which can be removed for cleaning.

I suspect the bill isn't just for demolition. The photos show it was one half of a semi. It looks like the work affected the other half of the semi (on the right) and the unattached semi next door (left). This photo shows a bunch of steel now going between the two. I reckon the owners of the unattached semi on the left would only allow that if their house was being affected as well. So I make it at least four properties affected. Their flat, the one above and the two semi either side.

The Sun: Couple’s £1m bill as home COLLAPSES after botched basement conversion. And that's not the rebuild cost.... https://www.thesun.co.uk/news/10471808/couples-dream-home-botched-conversion-mortgage/ There was another flat above theirs.

Guess I should check you know about the CIL exemption for self builders? To qualify you must not do any work on site before getting the paperwork done.

Sounds good. Relative of mine just has a pump to send sewerage up hill to the main in the road. Seems to be reasonably trouble free. Not sure if you need more than that these days.

There are several robots on YouTube doing plastering.

Welcome to the forum. If you have just agreed a price you still have time to do any outstanding due diligence checks. Get a 60m tape and do your own site survey, measure it, bang in some posts if the boundaries aren't obvious. Photograph them. Check against title plan. Does it have planning permission already? Services near? Access rights/Ransom strip? Visibility splays? Covenants? Will soakaways work? Good luck!

We have wet ufh in our bathroom. I recommend putting it on a separate programmable stat so you can set it to come on early without heating bedrooms. Love it. Heatmiser do a stat with remote sensor. Sensor in bathroom, stat on wall outside. Wire between. I made my own sensor from a NTC resistor in a tiny box from Maplin.

Look standard to me. Google ceiling rose wiring or see.. http://www.ceilingrosewiring.co.uk/ceiling-rose-wiring-older-cable-colours/

See advice in here.. https://brickhunter.com/blog/how-to-lay-bricks-in-winter "Temperatures lower than 4°C can compromise the structural integrity of your brick wall. According to the NHBC (National House Building Council), masonry construction should not proceed if the temperature falls below 2°C, unless suitable heating is available."

Why bubbles get stuck in pipes... https://phys.org/news/2019-12-student-year-old-physics-enigma.html