Temp

I missed it but thought on the news it said businesses could defer rates for 3 months or something like that.

PS: Latest cylinder connectors have large knobs so no spanner required.

We have that set up. A Brittania dual fuel range with gas hob on a pair of 47kg cylinders, family of four. Works very well. One cylinder lasts 18 months at least. I was thinking of using smaller cylinders but someone here pointed out that they may not be able to deliver the gas flow rate required when multiple rings in use. Our cylinders are located about 40m (yes forty meters) from the cooker in a cabinet behind the garage. We used several lengths of plastic coated copper pipe designed for the purpose. I think the connections were gas compression fittings, pressure tested and then wrapped in Denso tape before being buried in the ground. Indoors we laid the pipe in the floor insulation (we have beam and block with insulation and UFH in screed in kitchen). We used one length of pipe indoors so no joints under floor screed. We only used a duct pipe through the foundations. To pressure test you turn off the valve at cooker end. Fit a regulator and cylinder in the cabinet. The regulator has a gauge on it. Open the gas valve on the cylinder to pressurise the pipe run then close it again. Pressure gauge should remain stable for at least 24 hours. Metal cabinets for gas cylinders are expensive for what they are. Ours is designed for 47kg cylinders but it's only just tall enough and has a fixed roof. It's a pain to wrestle the cylinder into place through the door and connect it up. See if you can find one with a hinged roof as well or at least plenty tall so you can get your arms in there. I've recently changed to much longer hoses (4ft) between regulator and cylinder so I can connect it up outside the cabinet then shove it into place. 47kg cylinders are heavy even on a sack trolley. Avoid steps between car parking and cabinet if possible. You can get them delivered but that might be more expensive. I've always collected mine but you need something to stop the cylinder rolling around and protection for the lip of the boot when dragging it in and out. Two man job really.

+1 Even a 60mm diameter pipe would be better than nothing. When you have the second course built and its set up good, wait till he's gone to work, drop in the pipe and cover it up with gravel and soil.

Google found underwater mortar but no idea how readily available it is... https://rotafix.co.uk/products/masonry-repairs/rotafix-underwater-applied-mortar/ Rotafix Under Water Mortar powder is a blend of special cement powders, high quality graded sand, and a unique combination of polymers and admixtures. The powder, when mixed with water, produces a mortar which is wash-out resistant and waterproof. The ready to use mortar powders are packaged in 25kg moisture proof durable bags and have a shelf life of 2 years. https://www.epoxyproducts.co.uk/Epoxy%20Mortar%20Underwater%20482015.pdf EPOXY MORTAR—UNDERWATER Is for use in exceptionally wet conditions and for underwater applications. For fixing slip bricks and reinstating structures exposed to heavy battering from sea, such as sea walls and jetties. For repairing submerged concrete. I'd do my best to eliminate the water and leave gaps in that first course so any can drain to your side rather than build up.

I don't know about Scotland but in England a loft conversion can turn a two storey house into a three storey house and the rules for fire doors and fire resistance of walls is different for three storey houses. Sometimes the stair well on the ground floor has to be upgraded by doubling up plasterboard. Check with the BCO but if you only need FD30 doors then you can get some pretty nice looking cottage oak doors these days.. https://www.doorsandfloors.co.uk/woodland-oak-ledge-and-brace-fd30-fire-doors.html https://greentreedoors.co.uk/product/oak-mexicana-fd30-internal-fire-door/

Why do they say solvent weld should be avoided below ground on this one?.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-long-radius-bend-87-5-110mm/81100

Some grey and black solvent weld pipe feels less strong than the traditional brown plastic pipe. Is the grey/black rated for underground use?

Originally John Prescott (remember him) told LABC that they should have the staff to check DIY work meets Part P and that if they don't have the staff then the LABC should not require a DIYer to pay for a Part P Electrician (it should be included in the fee paid to LABC). However that all seems to have gone out the window. Best follow @Jeremy Harris advice.

Perhaps too heavy for the hinge friction mechanism? eg slides down and open on its own when unlocked? Perhaps wide windows may not stay parallel to the ground? eg one side may open more than the other? google found.. https://www.iqglassuk.com/storage/documents/Passiv-Haus-Windows-and-Doors-Product-Information-IQ-Glass.pdf Configurations Available Windows Fixed / Tilt and Turn / Side Hung / Top Hung / Bottom Hung (all inward opening) Doors Inward Opening Casement Door / Sliding Door Maximum and Minimum Sizes Hinged Elements 3m2, height 0.4m—2.7m, width 0.6m—1.6m Sliding Elements 4.3m2, height 1.8m—2.6m, width 1.6m—3.5m snip Maximum panel weight 90kg for hinged elements, 130kg for sliding elements

and you have definitely got all your CIL paperwork sorted (pre-commencement conditions discharged, CIL exemption claim form 7, Notice of commencement date Form 6 etc)? Get any of that wrong and you loose the CIL exemption if you start work. A fair bit of the missing data is more to do with Planning than Building Regs (eg the position of the house on the site and dimensions of the house are Planning issues not Building Regs issues). Unfortunately its up to you (the builder) to ensure the house is in the right place. There is also a difference between Building Regs drawings (which are to show how your house complies with Building Regulations) and Construction Drawings (which tell a builder how to build it). The above subset would be on a setting out or foundation plan. Typically you would start by getting a site survey done. This would be like a site plan with height data points on a 10m grid. Someone (you, your architect, or SE) would then add details of your house and founds to it together with two or more reference points (Control Stations). These reference points should be marked on the site by hammering in two posts that remain for the duration of the build (you can also set them out before the site survey and ask them to be shown on it). They should be somewhere out of the way such as in diagonally opposite corners of the plot, ideally on or near a height marker points. The posts should have height reference datum lines on them. They serve as reference points for the people setting out the house in the correct position on the site. Get these wrong and you end up building the house in wrong spot. The drawing should be dimensioned from the reference posts so the location of everything on the list can be read off and marked out on site. Drainage invert levels tell the ground workers how deep to set manholes, rest bends and the pipes between them. I can't remember if these are normally referenced to FFL or a site datum height. They probably need a cross sectional drawing of the foundations. This (these) will show: a) Foundation depth and thickness. They need to know how many courses of brick/block below FFL/DPC there will be. That way they know how much concrete to put in the trenches. Too much and you can't fit a whole number of brick courses between the top of the concrete and the desired height of the FFL/DPC. There are standard combinations for cavity walls but I'd have to look it up. Its something like two courses of blocks on the inner leaf are same height as 6 courses of bricks on the outer leaf. b) the width and minimum depth of the foundation trenches. The width may depend on the load bearing properties of the soil. This is usually determined by an SE who may need you to commission a soil condition report first (sometimes combined with a soil percolation test for soakaways). The depth of the founds may also depend on the soil type and proximity to trees and species. On some types of clay you need the sides of the foundation trenches lined with compressible boards before pouring concrete. How much of all this you actually need can depend on the project, site and soil type.

I think anyone with FTTC can order FTTP and they will quote to provide it at some cost. I'm guessing they are just making it easier in some areas where there is high demand.. https://www.openreach.co.uk/orpg/home/products/ultrafastfibreaccess/fttpondemand/fttpod.do or perhaps they are just replacing old cables in your area.

Zinsser on the ceiling, especially over shower.

I had similar problem. They are up 9% last I looked today. Bad news is everything else still trashed. Been a very expensive week.

Our builders comprised the builder himself, and two others. One of these I guess you could call site foreman and the other primarily worked wood but both could do just about anything, for example they dug the foundations and tiled the roof together. Other trades were contracted as required (eg plastering, electrics). The builder would normally be on site first and last thing. eg to open and lock up. In the evening he did a bit of a walk around putting stuff away and discussing what had been done and what was planned for the next day. One of the most important jobs was ensuring that they had everything they needed for the next days work. If they needed anything then either the builder or the foreman would go to the builders merchants on the way home or on the way in. Basically he went to great lengths to ensure nobody had an excuse not to work or go off site during the day. Reason I mention all this is if you want to keep updated on your project figure out how yours works and perhaps arrange to be there for the walk around, help him secure stuff etc.

Go visit the site they are currently working on. It's common for builders to line up the next job way early. If you visit you can see if they stand any chance of coming to you soon.

Some oil company shares are down 50%. One is paying a 25% dividend already declared!

Which form are you referring to? The application for OPP? I don't think that's an issue but would not hurt to get it confirmed from the council. I believe you would... 1) Submit an application for Full Planning Permission 2) wait for it to be granted. 3) Follow the procedure detailed near the top of form 7 to the letter to claim the exemption. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200136/policy_and_legislation/70/community_infrastructure_levy/5 That usually means forms 2, 7(part 1), 6, 7(part 2). Keep copies of all forms and letters. Send everything recorded delivery. Ask for reciepts ! One form lost in the post and you can accidentally loose the exemption. Get any pre-commencement planning conditions formally discharged in writing before submitting form 6. Do not start any work on site before the commencement date on form 6 or before they acknowledge reciept of form 6 in writing. Remember you must submit 7(part 2) and live in the house for 3 years after completion. There is also a time limit for the VAT reclaim. You might also consider life insurance to cover the CIL. I'm not kidding. I recall someone posted awhile back saying their husband had died during construction and the council said if the wife didn't live in the house she would loose the exemption and be liable for the cil. I can't remember how that turned out but council's appear to be looking for any excuse to cancel your exemption. One person lost it by sending the commencement notification by email.

After inspecting cause perhaps a job for Zinsser primer sealer stain killer?

As I understand it MR16 and GU10 are only standards for the electrical socket (eg the bit the light bulb pins fit into). Those can be fixed or floating in the light fitting. The dimensions of the bulb itself isn't part of the MR16 or GU10 standards. Halogen bulbs are mostly a standard size but CFL and LED can still vary a mm or two. I've come home with GU10 LED bulbs only to discover they don't fit my down lights. https://www.wholesaleledlights.co.uk/blog/2012/04/does-the-size-of-my-gu10-led-bulbs-matter/

If the scanning actuators fail does it burn a hole through you?

All I would do is move the final IC to the left and use the 46 degree connections on it to eliminate the 45 degree bends you have in the pipe runs. I might also put IC where you have 90 degree bends on the final runs.

Apparently according to the BBC today February's weather was all down to a "north Atlantic oscillation" channelling storms and cold fronts in our direction. They said it was set to continue for awhile. I tried to cut our paddock today but ran over a dog toy some walker had abandoned and caused £60 worth of broken belts and shear pins on the mower. Last time that belt broke it took most of a day to fix as well.

Hopefully I'll never need it. I'm on the mailing list of people that have commented on local plans in the past so they notify me of all policies out for public consultation. They invariably ignore all comments but it forces them to at least write a reply. Today I noticed it's not a requirement for a householder application so not needed for extensions.

If the solicitor is doing a good job they will have contacted the utility companies to get maps and find out if any cables or pipes run across the property. They can take 4-8 weeks to respond. Perhaps ask for a copy of the maps as they could be useful later? or perhaps don't ask if you think she hasn't sent for them yet! PS: We once had someone knock on the door looking to buy our house which was on the market. Four weeks later we completed and moved out.