Temp

No. There is no floor frame.Just PIR and OSB resting on the slab as the floor. If worried the PIR might compress you can lay joists same depth as the PIR but these would be between the brick not on top. If not clear I Will try to make a diagram later but bit busy today.

How about... Concrete slab. Two courses of engineering brick to raise the wood frame off slab. DPC Between brick and frame. Once water tight.. PIR infill UFH OSB Clad outside of frame in WBP ply to prevent racking then membrane, battens and cladding. The battens and cladding can extend down over the brick courses but stop 1" off the slab to keep them and out of any water that sits on the edge of the slab. Not sure i would use electric UFH. Possibly fan heaters or an lpg heater? Before you pour slab fit duct pipe for electric to come up in the wall.

How thick is it? Our UFH system has 80mm of PIR and I wish we had more. We have engineered Wood flooring and have found in some cold winters the flow temperature has had to be cranked up to 55C to ensure enough heat goes into the rooms.

At least not in this design . In others its a different matter.

Roofs should be "designed". There are two main ways to stop the roof pushing the walls out and the roof sagging: 1) Triangulation involving tie beams in tension joining the rafters together to form a triangle. With this approach you only need a ridge board not a beam. 2) Structural Ridge beam, which involves a much stronger ridge beam supported on strong gable end walls and possibly posts elsewhere. The rafters are then strapped together so that virtually the entire roof load "hangs" from the structural ridge beam. There are also variations involving things like purlins that also transfer weight to gable walls. Given the info in the OP I would triangulate the roof with beams bolted to the rafters at ceiling height. Every other rafter or so.

HSBS choose last Friday of the month to do their system update.

You dont just need planning permission you also need permission from the land owner to drive across their land. These are very different things even if in this case both are in the power of the council to grant. They will be different departments and either one could agree or disagree independently from the other. Before you pay a fee for planning permission you should find out which department in the council looks after council property/assets and contact them first. Some councils are more flexible than others. I know someone that wanted to buy some land from their council, but the council felt obliged to put the land up for sale at an auction saying they "have an obligation to get best value for public assets when they are sold". In another the council agreed to sell the land but the buyer had to pay all council legal expenses as well as their own.

When my brother moved house in the 90s the phone number he was given was the same as my work number. The only difference was one digit in the area code and that was only one different.

+1 Either 4x2 or 3x3 (75mm) would work. If you want vertical feather edged boards use "cant rails" fixed to the wall side of the posts then the feather edge nailed to the cant rails.

If you like things like pickled onions I recommend trying "Freshona cornichons with chili" from lidl. Not the plain ones or other makes. Edit: I mean to eat not clean the dishwasher.

In England I think the output of a septic tank can go to a drainage field but id still probably want a treatment plant if it was me. +1 to doing the percolation test asap as you cant make any decisions until you know whats feasible. Soakaways don't work on our plot so were fortunate to be allowed to discharge rainwater into a piped ditch along the road boundary. If the EA had refused that im not sure what options were left.

or wait until the initial pumping out stage has finished then just open door and pour it in. ?

I guess I should check.. If they are supplying and installing the piling/steels then it MUST all be zero rated to you as you cannot reclaim any VAT incorrectly paid from HMRC. If they are only supplying the piling and steels (not installing them) then they should charge you VAT on these materials and you can reclaim it.

Officially they do NOT need a certificate but a certificate is essentially just a letter you give them that says something like... I certify/confirm that your work relate to the construction of the new dwelling (details below) as therefore qualifies for zero VAT. Your details (name address etc) site location (typically from the title of your planning grant eg House on right of...) Planning reference number Think there is an example in VAT708 but it relates to charities so will need modifying.

Sky news is saying the 0.07% figure comes from "government analysis" and is over 15 years.. https://news.sky.com/story/uk-strikes-agreement-with-japan-to-secure-first-post-brexit-trade-deal-12068674 Better than no deal I guess.

Confirmed... https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/14/doors_and_windows

I suspect it will count as an extension forward of the original principle elevation.

New deal with Japan signed. Expected to boost GDP by..... 0.07%.

Are all the houses in your road similar or is there a lot of variation in size sahap and spacing?

No thats wrong... On a semi PDR allows upto 3m, and the neighbourhood consultation scheme may extend that to 6m. On a detached PDR allows upto 4m and the neighbourood consultation scheme may extend that to 8m.

If it's a vapour permeable membrane then there is no need for a 50mm ventilated void below it - so no need for a vent gap. If it's a traditional non permeable membrane it will need the ventilated void and gap. Although if your loft insulation is on the floor of the loft you only need vents at the eaves.

Hopefully it was less than 10 years ago. See if there is any evidence on Google maps. I think you can look back at old sat images.

Not quite. The zero rating of everything in the case of "Supply and Fit" only applies if they are fitting "Building Materials"... From VAT 708 Para 2.2.. Later in 13.6 it states.. So I would argue it IS a building material under 13.6 and he should zero rate it to you.

I doubt that clause is worth worrying about.If it's a single track road then simply driving down it creates an obstruction. Pretty sure a temporary obstruction is allowed or things like bin lorries would have a problem. Covenants also have to be written to the benefit of some other piece of land. What's the exact wording of yours?

I don't think you have said exactly when it was fenced off or did I miss it? From what you say they haven't made a claim for adverse possession or it would show up at the land registry. Take a look at the land registry "practice guides" on adverse possession and see if you think the current owner has met the requirements so that an application could succeed. How long has he lived there? A claim for adverse possession requires land to be fenced off, with intent to possess, "to the exclusion of all others" so gates or gaps in fences can matter. If a land owner gives permission for someone to use land then possession isn't "adverse", so a claim for adverse possession could also fail for that reason.