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Heard on the radio today... What colour should the new Kent passport be?

As I understand under WTO rules we have to impose the same tariff on imports from all countries unless we have a trade agreement with them. So for example we currently impose 6% duty on imports of Aluminium products from non-eu countries. After the end of the year we have to decide if we will impose 6% duty on imports from the EU as well or some other rate. If we decide to reduce it to zero for the EU we have to reduce it to zero for all countries that we don't have a trade agreement with. We risk allowing cheap imports from say China to wipe out UK based manufacturing - the reason we have a tariff at the moment.

They can "own" it. Exactly what do you and their deeds and other documents say about the pipe? Forget what they are asking for, what do the existing documents say? They sometimes give both parties rights specifically for eventualities like this.

First thing to do is find out if the electric co (DNO) have a wayleave for the pole. If there isn't that will help bargain down the cost of moving it. Bear in mind that to move your pole may require additional poles.

Bit of googling suggests that with a stone wall you cut a straight slot 1.5" deep into the stone with an angle grinder about 125-150mm above the tiles. The slot should slope upwards as it goes into the wall.

Looks like you need to learn how to flash a roof with profiled tiles to a wall. There are some youtube vids.. This example is on a short porch roof. For a taller roof the lead will have to be in several sections. Start at the bottom so that subsequent sections go on top as you work up towards the ridge. Each section should overlap the one below like roof tiles do. My only hesitation is the wall. Is it brick or stone? Im not sure if you can do this type of flashing with a stone wall. Make sure the lead is wide enough to reach over to the low point of the tile. I would bring it out to this point..

The best way to preserve existing ceilings is to avoid putting any new load on the existing ceiling joists. Arrange for the bottom of new floor joists (or bottom of attic trusses) to be about 1" above the top of the plasterboard. Avoid bolting or nailing new joists to the side of existing ceiling joists except at the ends where the existing joist is supported by a wall. That way when you load them up and they bend they do not transfer any load to the existing ceiling. This should really help avoid cracks in ceiling plaster.

With air you need to loose a lot to see a reduction in pressure. With water not so much.

They have a trade card which gets 5% cashback and discounts elsewhere but no idea if a self builder can get one.

A push mower might work as well?

I have used a TCT jigsaw blade for small openings but its still hard work and blade wear is fast.. Score and snap for straight lines..

I have a blower but find a ride on mower collects them better.

I think if I was doing it again I'd look at something like this... https://www.ledkia.com/uk/buy-basic-ultraslim-led-downlights/218-round-6w-ultraslim-led-panel.html Not used that company before but there are lots of similar out there.

My electrician did exactly the same in our bathroom.

Ok that sounds like Wedi Board. I have used that to make a wash stand. Nice to use for that because it cuts easily. Mine is hung with travertine stone and has been fine. However I did insert wooden blocks to provide anchor points for towel rails etc. I don't think it would survive if we wanted to remove the stone and retile with something else later. This fire rating relates to just the board not a stud wall clad with board.. https://materialdistrict.com/material/wedi-panel/ For the rest of our room we used Hardi Backer Board. That's a solid cement board that is virtually bomb proof. Quite hard to cut but no problem fixing things to it (if you can't find a stud in the right place). We used the 12mm thickness straight over studs. Hardi Backer Board doesn't burn but it can conduct heat to other flammable materials. So I'm not sure exactly what fire rating a stud wall clad with Hardi Backer Board has. Our BCO didn't question it (if he noticed). Best ask yours. https://www.jameshardie.com/product-support/resource-center/technical-documents/fire-prevention-faq This fire rating relates to just the board not a stud wall clad with board but compare with above.. https://www.jameshardie.co.uk/import/Documents/HardieBacker Multi Fuel Installation Guide.pdf

You also need to think about the battery and wiring carefully. 7000W at 24V = 290A.

I used the Protect VP400 on an out building. Was exposed on both walls and roof for many months with no problems.

Pine can be rather soft. https://www.antiquewoodenfloors.co.uk/original-pine-floorboards.htm

350mm might be wide enough for the services but not sure I could dig a trench in such a confined space. I think i would use it to bargain a better price from the owner of the yellow land.

It means.. "If its NOT one of these two things... 1) a hip to gable 2) Junction between roof on an extension and existing house Then the following applies.." So for example a dormer window is neither of these two so must be set back from the eaves by 0.2 meters.

Not sure about balustrading but I've used Go Glass in Cherry Hinton for other things - 8mm frameless showers, mirror and a few sealed units. https://goglass.co.uk/

I guess you tried the computerised footpath maps maintained by the county council footpath officer? The neighbours may have fenced off the footpath but its not that easy to make a right of way dissappear legally. In addition I don't think they can claim ownership under the rules on adverse possession if the footpath still exists legally. It might be possible to persuade them to let you run services in return for not creating a fuss about the footpath? I'm not recommending this but... Only a land owner can evict someone from a piece of land. So if you were able to somehow occupy the land you need then the neighbours that did the same some years ago would not be able to evict you unless they legally own it. You can check who owns small pieces of land by doing a "map search" at the land registry. The exact boundary cant be determined that way but they should be able to identify if there is a strip between you and them owned by the council or third party.

https://www.cse.org.uk/advice/advice-and-support/how-much-electricity-am-i-using Says.. Washing machine is 1200-3000W Electric ovens 2000-2200 Freezer 200-400 Fridge 40-120 Computer 80-100 Call it 3500W to 6000W total Without more info on the actual appliances I'd be looking for something that can do over 6000W continuously. I suspect "Peak" figures are usually only guaranteed for a few seconds, eg to allow for motor start up.

You can still get hand saws and chisels sharpened for you for a price but there is a certain satisfaction in doing it yourself. I've bought a few second hand wood planes off ebay in the past and there are good youtube videos showing how to tune them up. Not tried this co but google found they do sharpening.. https://www.prosharp.co.uk/services.asp?c=s Hand & Tennon saws Sharpen set & recut as required from £20.00 Wood chisels - Bevelled edge/Firmer/sash Up to and including 1" from £4.00 Above 1" from £5.00

What is your overall floor thickness? We opted for a beam and block first floor.