Temp

Got our last appliance from AO. They even delivered on a Sunday.

One other thing to check.. When previous extensions were built the planners may have removed permitted development rights by adding a condition. Should be possible to check that with the planning department.

Unfortunately HMRC can be reluctant to give any tax advice before the fact. I had to call their IHT help line recently and it even mentioned this in the recorded message you get.

I agree. Normally permitted development provided not more than half the original garden has been built on nor would it be within 7 meters of the rear boundary.

Its 5% but you can reclaim that (so 0%) but its not relevant here as already residential. I think anything but option 4 is risky. The rules I've seen are pretty clear about the demolishing all buildings on site and/or only retaining a front wall if required by planning.

Other possible adhesive would be a PU adhesive like Tiger seal or Puraflex. Sticks plastic and metal well. Someone here recommended it for sticking plastic trim back on cars and i've used it for that a few times now. Think there are black and white versions. Gets everywhere if not careful.

I can see a jubilee clip where the wc connects to the stack. I wonder if that joint is gas tight? Pressure testing the drain would tell you if there was a leak but not where it was. The kit to do a pressure test is about £40.

+1 Without ventilation water rushing down waste pipes can suck water out of traps leaving them empty enough to let gas back in when the water stops running. That could be happening anywhere there is a trap - basin, bath, shower or even the WC. Ideally there should be an AAV on that WC stack but if i understand the photos correctly it was difficult for him to connect the WC to the stack in the available space. If you can trace the smell to a basin or bath it might be possible to add a small AAV to the waste pipe near the trap being affected but I think they are meant to be located above the height of the WC pan. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-af32w-air-admittance-valve/42968?tc=IB6&ds_kid=92700055281954514&gclsrc=aw.ds&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtZH7BRDzARIsAGjbK2ZEICwkuS-RCIxTkjp8GPoo1URMcKhDx2zoXfiMi6z9IcABgSPJF6QaAltvEALw_wcB

I think your 2.6 x 7.4m would need full planning permission because the 7.4m part is more than half the width of the original house. Edit: Actually I think we need to know the exact outline of the original house before ANY extensions were made and if any were added after getting planning permission or were they all done under permitted development.

The two main ways of supporting a chimney after removal are 1) Gallows brackets - these look like large shelf brackets. 2) RSJ/UB - steel beam. I think you may need to expose more to see whats been done.

I'm not totally convinced by the explanation. If the mains voltage shoots up there should be sufficient isolation in the router power supply that its not transferred to the telephone line.

Just cut some 40mm thick timber and screw to the shuttering. Would take me 30mins.

If that's really what happened I'd check every electrical device that was plugged in at the time.

No. There is no floor frame.Just PIR and OSB resting on the slab as the floor. If worried the PIR might compress you can lay joists same depth as the PIR but these would be between the brick not on top. If not clear I Will try to make a diagram later but bit busy today.

How about... Concrete slab. Two courses of engineering brick to raise the wood frame off slab. DPC Between brick and frame. Once water tight.. PIR infill UFH OSB Clad outside of frame in WBP ply to prevent racking then membrane, battens and cladding. The battens and cladding can extend down over the brick courses but stop 1" off the slab to keep them and out of any water that sits on the edge of the slab. Not sure i would use electric UFH. Possibly fan heaters or an lpg heater? Before you pour slab fit duct pipe for electric to come up in the wall.

How thick is it? Our UFH system has 80mm of PIR and I wish we had more. We have engineered Wood flooring and have found in some cold winters the flow temperature has had to be cranked up to 55C to ensure enough heat goes into the rooms.

At least not in this design . In others its a different matter.

Roofs should be "designed". There are two main ways to stop the roof pushing the walls out and the roof sagging: 1) Triangulation involving tie beams in tension joining the rafters together to form a triangle. With this approach you only need a ridge board not a beam. 2) Structural Ridge beam, which involves a much stronger ridge beam supported on strong gable end walls and possibly posts elsewhere. The rafters are then strapped together so that virtually the entire roof load "hangs" from the structural ridge beam. There are also variations involving things like purlins that also transfer weight to gable walls. Given the info in the OP I would triangulate the roof with beams bolted to the rafters at ceiling height. Every other rafter or so.

HSBS choose last Friday of the month to do their system update.

You dont just need planning permission you also need permission from the land owner to drive across their land. These are very different things even if in this case both are in the power of the council to grant. They will be different departments and either one could agree or disagree independently from the other. Before you pay a fee for planning permission you should find out which department in the council looks after council property/assets and contact them first. Some councils are more flexible than others. I know someone that wanted to buy some land from their council, but the council felt obliged to put the land up for sale at an auction saying they "have an obligation to get best value for public assets when they are sold". In another the council agreed to sell the land but the buyer had to pay all council legal expenses as well as their own.

When my brother moved house in the 90s the phone number he was given was the same as my work number. The only difference was one digit in the area code and that was only one different.

+1 Either 4x2 or 3x3 (75mm) would work. If you want vertical feather edged boards use "cant rails" fixed to the wall side of the posts then the feather edge nailed to the cant rails.

If you like things like pickled onions I recommend trying "Freshona cornichons with chili" from lidl. Not the plain ones or other makes. Edit: I mean to eat not clean the dishwasher.

In England I think the output of a septic tank can go to a drainage field but id still probably want a treatment plant if it was me. +1 to doing the percolation test asap as you cant make any decisions until you know whats feasible. Soakaways don't work on our plot so were fortunate to be allowed to discharge rainwater into a piped ditch along the road boundary. If the EA had refused that im not sure what options were left.

or wait until the initial pumping out stage has finished then just open door and pour it in. ?