Temp

Toolstation and Screwfix also sell membrane support trays .. https://www.toolstation.com/eaves-felt-support-tray/p43994 https://www.screwfix.com/p/felt-support-tray-1-5m-5-pack/36622?_requestid=448357

That drawing shows a block laid horizontally on the inner leaf. You wouldn't do that in practice as it bridges the cavity, instead there would possibly be an insulated cavity closure all around the window. In which case I don't see why a DPC is needed.

This page has various drawings. This one shows over fascia vents above a vapour permeable membrane. Others show ventilation required with "conventional underlay" etc https://www.fastrackcad.com/CADFrame.asp?Company_id=107&LevelEC=1&Level0=Cembrit&Level1=02%24FIBRE+CEMENT+SLATE+APPLICATIONS

If the membrane is vapour permeable there is no need to ventilate UNDER it. However where slates or interlocking flat tiles are used its advisable to ventilate between the membrane and slates. This isn't necessary when textured hand made clay tiles are used because they don't lay flat and there are lots of gaps. So your sketch looks right. The vents are for the gap between membrane and slate and stop birds getting up there. They should also allow any rain that get blown under the slates to run down and escape.

+1 If plain tiles are used the bottom layer must also slope down.. https://chandlermaterials.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/Creasing-Tiles-Leaflet.pdf

https://www.proctorgroup.com/how-to-choose-the-right-membrane-for-open-jointed-cladding

The problem is that there is nobody certifying or approving non traditional construction techniques for life expectancy. The government should consider setting up a body (if the NHBC won't) to do this job. Its going to be important if we are ever to mass produce houses in factories in the UK.

In part. Our house is on a gentle slope and is split level. On the up hill side of each change of level we put a French drain under the house to route water out sideways to surface water drains.

That's what we have, just 90 degree bends with a short length of 110mm up to ground level. 80mm down pipe fits inside with the rubber boot covering the gap. Needed to use plumbers lube to get the rubbers in place on the down pipes but seems to work fine for us. Sorry I can't remember where we got the rubbers. We do have a filter that stops leaves getting into the rainwater tank but no silt trap. The tank is just for garden and car use so not an issue. Quite a lot of silt in the tank after 13 years.

Our rainwater down pipes are 80mm and the drains 110mm. We didn't want gullies and ended up using rubber adaptors that connect the two and stop stones entering. We have never needed access for rodding but could remove the lower section of 80mm down pipe if necessary.

I think this might be a job for a Planning Consultant that has handled similar cases. It looks like most councils handle applications for a dropped kerb differently to other planning applications (eg an extension). However it also looks like you can appeals to the Planning Inspectorate eg following a Planning Application where the "development" is a dropped kerb. Such an appeal would take the decision out of the hands of the council. The council could contest it but that costs them money so if they think they might loose they might not even fight it. Appeal Inspectors do put weight on formally ratified local plans but less weight on plans that have not been formally ratified. They are also required to take into account National Policies. These Appeals were refused.. https://acp.planninginspectorate.gov.uk/ViewDocument.aspx?fileid=29689390 These Appeals were granted.. http://www2.guildford.gov.uk/councilmeetings/mgConvert2PDF.aspx?ID=4648 http://www.eaststaffsbc.gov.uk/MVM.DMS/Planning Application/626000/626324/P_2015_00021 APPEAL DECISION.pdf More searching might turn up one involving loss of roadside parking.

He suggests they changed policy in 2019 and no longer allow dropped kerbs to result in the loss of on street parking. Perhaps ask if the policy change was put out to consultation (if not is it a valid planning policy?). When was it ratified by the council etc Perhaps you can find another policy that contradicts this one? How about finding out what their policy is on electric cars and C02 emissions? Then perhaps write to the chairman of the council and point out that this policy precludes you buying an electric car as you cannot run a cable across the kerb.

Think I used VP400 and it was exposed at least 6 months, much longer than recommended with no problems.

So the main thing to avoid is insulation blocking the ventilation at the eaves. There are products like this Roll Panel designed to prevent it.. https://www.google.com/search?q=eaves+ventilation+roll+panel&client=tablet-android-samsung-nf-rev1&prmd=sinv&sxsrf=ALeKk02fV26W0P4UCVa6FKBEdZmYUStI2Q:1598367385098&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj9-NXBzrbrAhUCQEEAHThkBGQQ_AUoAnoECAsQAg&biw=1280&bih=800&dpr=1.5

Depends where the roof insulation is. If it's on the floor of the loft you only need eaves ventilation and tunnels to keep it open. If its between the rafters you might need ridge ventilation if the membrane isn't vapour permeable (I think if the membrane is vapour permeable you dont need any ventilation).

Companies that specialise in removing ties claim a tie can reduce the value by 40% (I know they are trying to drum up business).

HMRC can't be that busy. They are chasing me for no reason I can identify. Basically they sent a letter saying they "may have evidence" but as far as I can tell its a fishing exercise and my accountant says many have received same letter.

Ownership and more.. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/owning-a-watercourse Suggests you need to contact your "lead local flood authority" (which is usually your council) or "internal drainage board" (eg in the Fens).

This document may help but takes some reading.. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/830643/190910_Tech_Guide_for_publishing.pdf As its more than 4 meters deep it will (at least) need to go through the neighbour consultation scheme. See "g)" on page 17.

If you think this is bad try registering a Lasting Power of attorney at the moment. Taken me 6 months so far. While you wait you may have to find £1500 a week for nursing home bills ?

We are a family or four. Wife and kids spend a lot of time on the Internet playing games and iPlayer/Netflix/Prime. I'm sure we occasionally max out our 46Mbit FTTC Internet connection but I doubt we hit the limit of my Netgear switch. I set up my network cameras and Synology NAS on a second switch so very little traffic on the one our computers are on. The cameras are also POE using Ubiquiti screened cable.

Perhaps he was referring to putting the land in trust. See my earlier post.

Indeed. I've said they need proper advice at least twice already.

We got a quote for an overhead connection but our builder said the engineers would probably be happy to hook up an underground cable if we ran one. So we didn't tell them we wanted an underground connection, we just laid our own cable from house to bottom of the pole and left a coil long enough to reach the top with several meters spare. We had some issues because tit turned out there weren't any spare wires on the pole. Once they fixed that they forgot to actually connect us. Took while to sort out but eventually they sent a cherry picker and the engineer connected the wire we had provided instead of running an overhead.

Got one of those strainer plugs. They fall apart after a few years. As for the list: Dishwashers - Quite like Bosch appliances but our Bosch Dishwasher has had issues. The heating element is printed onto the outside of a steel cylinder. If just a little scale builds up on the inside the element overheats and fails right where the scale is. Had two go like this and our water is hard but not very hard. Problem is you can't just buy the element, got to buy a whole new pump assembly as well. Now we run weekly descaling cycles with vinegar to try and prevent it happening. Pocket Door - We also have an Eclisse pocket door which is ok. However I would avoid pocket doors in general where you intend to open and close it regularly (eg on a bathroom or WC). They are far too slow. Shower Door - I see its a bifold door. I would go with a standard door as there is one less gap and fewer hinges to go wrong. Network switch - Why such an expensive switch? Yes Cisco are good but 5 or 6 times the price?