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We love our level entry. With some imagination its possible to have steps with a ramp/path wrapped around them. Ramps don't have to look industrial.

We have a lot of exterior oak and in my experience... a) If you want it to go silver after 5 years of black, blotchy and perhaps even slimy then do nothing. I let a field gate do this. b) If you want to maintain a honey colour with low maintenance then something like 1 coat of Sadolins classic and 3 of Sadolin Extra clear brushed on very thin. I mean thin or it will look like treakle. Thin and it looks great. Our front door has this. c) If you don't mind some maintenance... 1 coat of Danish and 3 of Osmo UV Phrotection Oil. Put a new coat of Osmo on every 3 years. We have lots of external oak beams with this. d) If you actually like maintenance and dont mind the oak going darker brown...then go for Danish oil on its own. However you may need to recoat it every year, perhaps even twice a year if very exposed or it will go black and blotchy on its way to a). Our external beams started with this then I sanded it all off a few years later to switch to c). Try your choice on some scrap oak first.

This might be nearer to your case... https://www.gov.uk/hmrc-internal-manuals/vat-construction/vconst02370 But note it says buiiding not dwelling.

Not very clear but.. https://www.gov.uk/hmrc-internal-manuals/vat-construction/vconst02250

See 3.2.1 and the linked paragraphs. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708#para3-2

The main problem I see will be your invoices for the garage being dated before your planning permission. That's been a problem in the past.

Would it show up white limescale more?

I believe if built before 1948 the front of the outbuilding would also be considered the front of the original house. See top of page 15 in the technical guide. and the definition of original... So if built prior to 1948 it doesn't matter if the outbuilding was an extension its considered part of the original building.

Perhaps try.. https://www.utilitysearch.com

Some numbers here for gas and electric but I not sure if they cover the final mile or just the distribution grid. https://www.energynetworks.org/news/public-information/dial-before-you-dig.html https://www.dnvgl.com/software/software-services/maps-viewer-uk-gas-network-operators.html

Try asking a solicitor who they contact when doing searches for conveyancing.

I think a lot depends on if they consider the outbuilding to be part of the original house. Was the outbuioding constructed before 1948?. The original building is defined as... If before 1948 then option 3 might need planning because you are extending forward of the original front elevation. Eg the outbuilding is not an outbuilding and you are extending it forwards.

Typically you either need a vapour permeable membrane or a 50mm ventilated void below a non permeable membrane. The latter causes issues with the depth of insulation between rafters. You may need more insulation below the rafters. An alternative might be to switch to a warm roof which puts insulation above the rafters but raises roof height. That doesn't need ventilation but it's important to get an interstitial condensation risk assessment done for the proposed design. Don't let the builder just wing it.

Are there other houses set back from the road? In some cases the planners are wary about such "backland" development.

RSJ/UB are better especially if you are in a semi or terrace and other side has or will remove their side as well. PS I dont think they make RSJ beams any more, have been replaced by Universal Beams (UB) but the old name is still used by some people. They are essentially the same thing. Just mention that in case you get a quote that refers to a UB.

I was going to use slate but was told it scratches easily. Went for some black granite found at a local stone masons yard that I think was left over kitchen worktop. Got him to hone off the glossy surface to give a silk finish.

Raise the whole garden except for a narrow bit near the house to avoid bridging the DPC.

My understanding is that the raised area (I've not heard it called the visual warning area either) is raised to discourage rugs from being placed too close.

Approved Document Part J has the dimensions/rules but they are confusing until you realise that they are different for appliances that can and can't heat the hearth to over 100C, and decide which you are building for. If it can (eg open fire basket) you need diagrams 24-26 on pages 37 and 38. If it can't (eg stove on legs) you can use diagram 26 and 27 on pages 38 and 39. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200135/approved_documents/72/part_j_-_combustion_appliances_and_fuel_storage_systems

Its all in VAT 708. In some cases (charity buildings?) HMRC require you to give the contractor a "certificate" which is basically a letter with your details, the plot details and your planning reference number. Also has words such as "I certify your supply relates to a non-residential building being converted to a dwelling and accordingly qualifies for 5% VAT". Think there is an example in VAT 708. I don't believe you need to give him a certificate but sometimes it can help. Several people on the forum have made up their own certificate.

Main Beams: The guide only covers main beams (eg the beam parallel with the wall) upto 3.4m (Table 3.1). If you want to use that guide you would need three posts to reduce span to 2m. In that case they suggest main beams are 195 x 44 C16 doubled up. Joists: Table 4 suggests 195 x 45 C16 for a 3m span. I don't know/think you can order oak to C16. May need to specify "Structural grade oak". I recommend any metalwork in contact with the oak is stainless steel as oak can corrode other metals.

I've not read all of this yet but it looks like it has the info needed and useful construction details... https://www.marley.co.uk/-/media/Files/Fixing-Instructions/TDCA-Raised-decks.ashx?la=en&hash=D5C139F512D2FF525C1A73044D89FA62 eg Beam Sizes and post spacing - Para 3.4 and Table 3.1 Wall plate - 3.6 Joist - 3.7 Bracing - 3.8

How old is it? Depending on how many leaks and how long its been like that the problem could range from just a few damaged slates need replacing to the whole roof structure needs replacing.

What has the Architect been contracted to to? In England it's common to contract the Architect for work up to and including Building Control Approval. That means after the drawings have been sent to Building Control and Building Control have accepted them so work can start. In some cases the Architect is also hired to oversee the construction work for a fixed fee, or just provide time at an hourly rate to modify drawings if necessary during construction.

I actually liked the elevations but first reaction was it will be expensive to build. I agree ther is a lot of circulation space and effectively three separate living rooms on ground floor. None of which looks like a main/large living room.