Temp

Is it a 50mm Euro rather than a 40mm Euro? Is there such a thing as a "50mm Euro"?

Whats the thread on the stainless steel part? Also 45mm?

I've also use Ronseal solvent based wood preservers on oak and it does stop it going black and slimey while still fading to grey/silver. At least on west facing surfaces. East facing are still brown.

Not that bad. Mass produce a load at once out of WBP?

I think it would need the current owner to agree to the charge? The split might be delayed as permission from the council would be needed to remove it from part of the land? I think it might complicate things to start before the land is split.

It seems to be holding up well on our oak.

+1 I have to apologise to my neighbours for my bad language sometimes. Invariably I'm cursing out a designer for some reason or other. Usually there is an obviously better no cost solution if only the designer had got his hands dirty.

Even the Roper Rhodes are like that. They don't have rear bumpers and would need taller ones than at the front. "Splashing out" will stain carpet.

I'd paint that with a single coat of dainish for colour then a few coats of Osmo UV protection oil.

I wouldn't worry too much then. Wait for that to go in before making system changes.

Its very common for them to be like that. Mine doesn't even have the rear rubber bumpers. Yes it poor design.

Did you mean a system boiler? It is possible to use a combi boiler to heat a tank (there are even some advantages) but its not a very common thing to do. With a combi the CH circuit gets a diverter so the CH side can heat both the CH and a DHW tank. The tank is used for high flow rate outlets like showers. The DHW side of the boiler can still be used or low flow rate outlets like taps or dedicated to one shower.

Its called a Secondary Loop. The primary circuit 8s boiler to tank. Secondary is tank to taps. We have a secondary loop. They key is to run the loop as close to the tap as possible. In our WC the plumber T'd off about 3m from the loop to the tap which means most people are done washing hands before the hot water arrives so the loop is ineffective in that WC.

I noticed that its a consultation document so might not yet be official policy. Appeal Inspectors are allowed to take such documents into account. However it may mean you are one of the first to go through it. I would start searching the database for other recent planning applications to see if you can find out what the going rate is.

Only had a quick look and the alternative to paying is in section 5.2 but 5.1 says they prefer cash. However doing your own mitigation might end up costing more as you would probably have to pay Natural England or a recommended consultant to draw up a proposal and impact statement for you.

I'm not up to date on this but.. If your wife's business builds and owns the outbuilding there might be CGT implications later on if you sell the house? Think same applies if she claims a room in the house is an office? or has Covid caused the rules to change? Here it also suggests business rates might be an issue.. https://www.brooksonone.co.uk/knowledge-centre/limited-company/claiming-business-expenses/working-from-home/#:~:text=Claiming expenses when working from,as a tax-deductible expense.&text=In order to claim tax,an office or a workplace.

Dropping the temperatures from 22 to say 19C will reduce consumption but not by a huge amount. If its 0C outside the temperature drop through walls and windows changes from 22 to 19 so I would expect consumption should go from 586 units/week to 586 * 19/22 = 506 units/week at best (as the DHW demand hasn't changed).

Probably not this but in one image it looks like a resistor lead might be touching the heatsink tab of the 317. The tab is connected to the Output of the 317 regulator inside it so accidental electrical connections should be avoided. (aside: You might also be able to use the tab as a convenient place to measure Vout.).

Typo? You've got a -7V differential. eg If Vout is designed to be 12V then Vin must be >15V.

As others have said... That sounds like a fault between live or Neutral and Earth In the oven. The RCD is detecting the fault and tripping to save your life as its designed to do. With the earth disconnected its not able to do that. Devicex with heating elements like ovens, toasters, hir dryers are notorious for earth leaks and trips. I had to replace both elements in our oven as they warped and cracked in five or six years. Check any light bulbs in the oven are working as sometimes when they blow they can cause a similar issue.

Google found. https://www.radwell.co.uk/en-GB/Buy/CARLO GAVAZZI/CARLO GAVAZZI/FPD1901220 But its expensive. They offer to repair one for £177.

You could lay the rad flat but it might be better on a slight slope so it doesn't trap air? or perhaps put a T branch in the pipe extending above the rad to collect any air circulating and put a bleed valve on top? Valve | |______rad_____ |

Why did you do that? It prevents you easily rodding the branch from the IC which you have anyway?

Here is a made up example of a combined Rain Water and Soil.. The Rain Water Gully branches can be rodded from the gully so they don't need a manhole/IC where they join the main pipe. The stack (Soil Vent Pipe/SVP) needs a manhole/IC so it can be rodded without taking apart the stack. Likewise the branches to an internal kitchen sink without a gully and the WC. The main run can be rodded from the manhole/ICs in both directions. If there had been a bend in it (eg taking it around the back of the house) then you might put an IC at the bend so it can be rodded in either direction. The IC have 45 degree internal channels so they inject water into the main pipe in the direction of the flow. The stack can be inside the house. If you have more than one the stack furthest from the sewer should/must be vented. The others can have AAV on them.

I personally would avoid junctions under the house but it is done. All of our branch pipes (eg from stacks, ground floor WC and kitchen) take more or less the shortest route out from under the house and connect into IC on the main pipe runs down either side of the house. You can connect more than one branch into an IC. You don't have to use an IC at every junction but think how you would rod a branch pipe if there wasn't one? You might only have access to the branch via a WC indoors. With IC you can rod from the outside.