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Temp

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Everything posted by Temp

  1. I believe the inspector could not grant your application subject to a condition that you pay because of funny rules governing conditions. These things are normally done by an S106 agreement which forms part of your planning application. I would reapply and mention in the covering letter that you anticipate the need to ammend the application to meet the policy (refer to it by its name) and request planning officer draft the necessary documentation. In addition to the Environmental contribution you will probably have to pay your and their legal costs. Try and get the s106 to be as specific as possible as to what they will use the money for. That way if they don't use it within 5 years (?) you can in theory get it back.
  2. We have a beam and block ground and first floor. Also needed steels to reduce the span of the beams. SE was happy for the steel to rest on the block inner leaf but in one or two spots specified denser blocks and piers due to the loading. Mostly where steels bear on areas between two windows.
  3. Probably also time to think about wiring for lighting.
  4. We have a pitched roof with 200mm deep rafters. Its a breathable membrane so only needed to allow 25mm for it to drape. Think our insulation is around 160mm PIR. Vapour barrier below and plasterboard. Wish we had more insulation, mainly because it gets too hot in summer in those rooms. You might investigate putting another 50mm layer of PIR or insulated plasterboard below the rafters.
  5. I'm only an amateur/novice/DIY welder. I don't understand why they were trying to weld across gaps? If it was me I'd cut small strips to fill the gap where i was going to weld, or is that cheating?
  6. Ours wanted to see us pressure test the drains and checked every bit of glass in the house was to spec. Eg standard marks on internal pages and coatings on windows.
  7. Does the voltage rating of the Cin Capacitor help? Probably not as it could be way higher than needed.
  8. If that doesn't work I think there are brackets like this that are designed to be fixed to the wall and the rad hangs on them? Not used them myself. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrome-brackets-for-towel-RAIL-radiator-Flat-Or-Curved-Wall-Fixing-FAST-SHIP/251736072301?hash=item3a9ca3a06d:g:oGQAAOSwD0lUeG9d https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Chrome-Bracket-For-Flat-Or-Curved-Radiators-CHROME-Towel-Radiators/184371533481?hash=item2aed6656a9:g:L-YAAOSwnJJfFs5O You might even be able to put them into the studs if the rad is wide enough? Otherwise I'd put a pan head screw into the threaded holes on the rad and make "keyhole plates" to fix to the wall.
  9. The problem with most of the warranties is that they cover failure rather than poor quality. They will most likely argue that the welds haven't actually failed so there isn't a problem. If the building doesn't fall down in first 10 years they are laughing. I recall a case where someone's drains were blocking once a month due to poor design/layout. Their claim was refused because the drains worked when unblocked.
  10. Any particular reason to use plywood? If you are going to tile it consider wedi board instead. Easy to cut compared to plywood and doesn't need any sealer. Some plywood is pretty poor quality. Have a look at the edges to see if bits have already come off. Get some filler same trip? MDF takes paint well but perhaps not recommended under a basin as it will get wet.
  11. +1 I used a local engineering co to skim a commutator on a motor few years ago. The chap in reception sucked his teeth and said it would be expensive but only charged me something like £30 to fix a £150 motor. Mind you I had stripped it down for him.
  12. Elsewhere I've found data that suggests the last two digits might be important. The -A1 version appears to be the "standard" version. The -A8 appears to have a connector with additional signals on it (eg Alarm signals). Otherwise they appear to use the same motor part M3G084-GF. If the motor on yours only has two wires that difference might not matter as they are likely to be just power wires.
  13. https://www.ebmpapst.co.uk/en/contact/ebmpapst_uk/spares_replacements/spares_replacements.html
  14. +1 Papst have been making fans for decades. They appear to have a near match on their website here but the last digits of the part number are different. That could be a problem or it could just be a version number. https://www.ebmpapst.co.uk/en/products/axialfans/axialfansdetail.php?pID=132250 I suggest getting your engineer chap to give them a call to ask if its a replacement or what the differences are.
  15. How do they know when to defrost?
  16. I think you may need a wider door. The regs specify a "clear opening width" not the width of the door. When a door can only open 90 degrees the door itself obstructs the opening reducing it by the thickness of the door and sometimes by another 10mm or so. If you specify a room width of 760mm that only gives the builders 10mm for errors, plastering, tiles? Id be inclined to allow a bit more.
  17. Welcome, One of my sons did briefly flirt with the idea of doing an Architecture degree and one of the courses offered had a specialty in off site manufacturing, however he eventually decided to do Materials Science instead. Would be interested to know why you think the big house builders in the UK haven't really adopted off site manufacturing in a big way? It is a mortgage issue?
  18. Google just found this.. https://www.theheatxchange.co.uk/potterton-fan-motor-blade-l-20m-on-arg-pot1753260 Pretty sure Potterton = Dimplex and they claim its "in stock" on their web page. Best double check that.
  19. If you cant get one from Dimplex pester them to see if you can get any kind of specification for it. There are loads of fans and motors out there that could do the job but you will need more technical info than just their part number to select right one. Some things can be measured like the dimensions and operating voltage but others like the air flow rate are harder.
  20. CE is being replaced by UKCA at some point. Think it stands for "United Kingdom Can't Agree" or something like that. Was story in the paper recently about a small toy company that makes 39 products and has been told UKCA marking will cost £500 each.
  21. +1 dead handy for all sorts of things.
  22. Yes, you can also put the cable in the duct while its lying on the ground nice and straight. Just make sure you have enough out each end. In my area duct comes with a thin string in it. Use it to pull a proper 8-10mm thick draw rope.
  23. Sadly we're no longer in the EU.. https://www.boredpanda.com/eu-recognize-right-to-repair/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organic "EU Passes Regulations Forcing Manufacturers To Have Spare Parts Available For 7–10 Years After Product Purchase"
  24. Can you see any make or part numbers on the body of the motor? While its still sort of working might be worth trying to measure.. How many wires? Voltage? Current/power? RPM?
  25. This looks like the motor and fan but Ouch.. £460.. https://www.dimplex.co.uk/product/fan-60mm-motor-blade-l-20m https://www.showerdoc.com/dimplex-fan-motor-and-bl-1753260 Think I'd be taking it apart and replacing bearings and possibly brushes if it has any (probably not). Edit: I see you already asked them.
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