Temp

So let's say you buy for £200k and sell 10 years later for £400k. Gain of £200k. At 10% you would pay £20K leaving you with £380k to buy the new house. But new house the same size costs £400k. Need to increase mortgage £20k.

Ive had Heatmiser stats for 13 years without any issues but they are an older model. I'm wondering if you have a wiring issue? Are they the12V version powered by the wiring centre? Is the wiring centre putting out a higher voltage than it should? If you call Heatmiser don't bother going into all the detail about the MVRH that just confuses the picture. Just tell them the stats appear to be over reading and its not a calibration issue.

https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/advice/section-106 "..it was decided that where a new Local Plan has been adopted after 28 November 2014 (when the exemption was introduced) this outweighs the Section 106 exemption." So if your local plan is older that 2014 you might be exempt.

You should also check if self builders are exempt from S106 contributions. Thats been the subject of many legal challenges since 2014. Might be they can't make you pay.

Thing is they aren't meant to grant permission subject to agreeing an S106 contribution in the future. The thinking goes... How can they approve an application when essential mittigation hasnt been agreed? For this reason appeals in the past have ruled that S106 agreements should be considered alongside the planning application. S106 payments are even considered "voluntary" because in theory you have other ways of mitigating the impact.

Bring back the Poll Tax/Tax per person?

+1 See also comments in here..

Is it a 50mm Euro rather than a 40mm Euro? Is there such a thing as a "50mm Euro"?

Whats the thread on the stainless steel part? Also 45mm?

I've also use Ronseal solvent based wood preservers on oak and it does stop it going black and slimey while still fading to grey/silver. At least on west facing surfaces. East facing are still brown.

Not that bad. Mass produce a load at once out of WBP?

I think it would need the current owner to agree to the charge? The split might be delayed as permission from the council would be needed to remove it from part of the land? I think it might complicate things to start before the land is split.

It seems to be holding up well on our oak.

+1 I have to apologise to my neighbours for my bad language sometimes. Invariably I'm cursing out a designer for some reason or other. Usually there is an obviously better no cost solution if only the designer had got his hands dirty.

Even the Roper Rhodes are like that. They don't have rear bumpers and would need taller ones than at the front. "Splashing out" will stain carpet.

I'd paint that with a single coat of dainish for colour then a few coats of Osmo UV protection oil.

I wouldn't worry too much then. Wait for that to go in before making system changes.

Its very common for them to be like that. Mine doesn't even have the rear rubber bumpers. Yes it poor design.

Did you mean a system boiler? It is possible to use a combi boiler to heat a tank (there are even some advantages) but its not a very common thing to do. With a combi the CH circuit gets a diverter so the CH side can heat both the CH and a DHW tank. The tank is used for high flow rate outlets like showers. The DHW side of the boiler can still be used or low flow rate outlets like taps or dedicated to one shower.

Its called a Secondary Loop. The primary circuit 8s boiler to tank. Secondary is tank to taps. We have a secondary loop. They key is to run the loop as close to the tap as possible. In our WC the plumber T'd off about 3m from the loop to the tap which means most people are done washing hands before the hot water arrives so the loop is ineffective in that WC.

I noticed that its a consultation document so might not yet be official policy. Appeal Inspectors are allowed to take such documents into account. However it may mean you are one of the first to go through it. I would start searching the database for other recent planning applications to see if you can find out what the going rate is.

Only had a quick look and the alternative to paying is in section 5.2 but 5.1 says they prefer cash. However doing your own mitigation might end up costing more as you would probably have to pay Natural England or a recommended consultant to draw up a proposal and impact statement for you.

I'm not up to date on this but.. If your wife's business builds and owns the outbuilding there might be CGT implications later on if you sell the house? Think same applies if she claims a room in the house is an office? or has Covid caused the rules to change? Here it also suggests business rates might be an issue.. https://www.brooksonone.co.uk/knowledge-centre/limited-company/claiming-business-expenses/working-from-home/#:~:text=Claiming expenses when working from,as a tax-deductible expense.&text=In order to claim tax,an office or a workplace.

Dropping the temperatures from 22 to say 19C will reduce consumption but not by a huge amount. If its 0C outside the temperature drop through walls and windows changes from 22 to 19 so I would expect consumption should go from 586 units/week to 586 * 19/22 = 506 units/week at best (as the DHW demand hasn't changed).

Probably not this but in one image it looks like a resistor lead might be touching the heatsink tab of the 317. The tab is connected to the Output of the 317 regulator inside it so accidental electrical connections should be avoided. (aside: You might also be able to use the tab as a convenient place to measure Vout.).