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Bookmark this site for when you need info on anything like paving/drainage etc.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/ Check Block Paving in the index.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/pavindex Loads of info. They also have specifications for some work you can ask a contractor to quote against.

My guess is the builder will use two steels the same size so he only needs calculations for the one with longer span. No doubt another forum member can recommend a cheaper SE service.

My understanding is the planning rules are different. A class Q "Prior Approval" application to convert agricultural buildings cannot be refused by the planners if it complies with the rules (eg must be capable of being converted) so of course the pre app would be favourable (they don't really have much choice). Just be sure there is evidence of agri use. Some people have had refusals because the buildings were used to store old cars in or rented out for storage. That means they aren't agricultural buildings anymore so may not qualify for class Q. The approach some councils take is very different to others. In some areas an appication to demolish and rebuild might be treated like a new house in the countryside and refused. So the issue of structural suitability and evidence of current use might be key. You might consider making the purchase conditional on getting PP one way or the other.

What sort of cover do you want? I decided a certificate wasn't worth having and went with a warranty. I figured its very unlikely we would have a problem that the Architect could be liable for. Some 6 years after we finished we discovered the tiles on one side of our garage roof were spalling badly. Architects certificate would not have covered it.

Bit expensive but fast enough to share with a few neighbours if that's allowed..

Some sort of fire escape platform above the glass would be allowed but bit ugly.

With care you can test for leaks before tiling or even boarding the wall..

You can drop it onto the slope (we have that in several places). You normally fit a bend at the bottom that directs water points across and down the slope. I would support the overhang at 3 with posts and perhaps run two downpipes one down each post to cope with the flow. We have had issues with overflowing. Not really due to the capacity of gutters exactly but due to the higher speed and depth of water on the roof causing some to overshoot the edge of the gutter.

The problem is once a neighbour complains and they find a breach of the regs they are kinda obliged to "regularise" the situation... https://www.lgo.org.uk/make-a-complaint/fact-sheets/planning-and-building-control/planning-enforcement Yours might not be quite that bad but I don't think they have any powers to approved a breach unless you make a retrospective application. If they approve it the neighbour can't really complain that the due process wasn't followed.

+1 Worth considering strengthening the whole floor if you are planning to tile it.

I think cafes are now use class E so may need planning permission to change from F2 to E.

From Google.. https://www.lexology.com/library/detail.aspx?g=ab2d7bdc-5751-4b87-ae99-f273c0260918#:~:text=Class F2%3A Local community&text=A hall or meeting place,use of the local community.&text=An area or place for,involving motorised vehicles or firearms.&text=An indoor or outdoor swimming pool or skating rink.

Have they given any hints on the likely outcome? Sometimes they suggest a retrospective application if they think it will be approved.

Sounds like a partial blockage in the drain. Symphonic wc do fill up the pan but then drain out more rapidly than you describe. As I recall the waste outlet pipe is a smaller diameter on a syphonic so I don't think you have one of those.

In the end I hired a Paslode IM350+ from HSS for the weekend. They gave me a brand new machine! Amazing bit of kit. I was shooting 51mm galvanised ring shank nails with notched heads. Never missed a beat. Made it way easier as I could push the gun through the neighbours prickly plants.

How about this stuff.. https://www.tilingsuppliesdirect.co.uk/product/no-more-ply-tongue-groove-board-18mm-22mm#.YF50wMinw1I "No More Ply Tongue & Groove Board is a thicker version of the standard No More Ply Tile Backer Board. It is a fibre cement board with a tongue and groove connection that is designed to directly replace floorboards on joists." Does it conduct better than plywood?

I sometimes think that companies like Hardi (makers of Hardi tile backer board) are missing a trick. Isn't there a market for a cement board that.. * Is strong enough to be used over joists (or battens) * Rigid enough (over joists) to take tiles. * Conducts heat well enough for UFH. * Water resistant for wet rooms. Or is it just not possible to make one?

I have 80mm PIR in some rooms and if building again I would fit more. I assume your screed is 150mm thick in the workshop because you will be driving a car on it? Need not be that thick elsewhere.

I doubt most units would be strong enough on their own but if reinforced no problem. Under load the top tends to pull away from the wall and the bottom is pushed back towards the wall. I think we have 2*4 fixed to the brick wall and 10mm threaded rod from that to holes at the top of the frame. Nuts either side allowed it to be adjusted so its vertical. Timbers were added immediately left and right of the metal frame so Hardi backerboard could be screwed to form boxing. Later tiled before fitting the WC. Think the Geberit frames are 50cm wide so can be fitted in a 60cm wide base unit. Would have to be units without a setback toe board.

Meanwhile write anyway. Mention your expired PP and that you intend to renew it. It's up to them how much consideration they give it if any.

Actually it looks like I'm wrong. Leaving the country might not be enough.. 20+ years ago you could leave for a year or two. Then some chancellor made it 5 years. However it looks like for property they changed it in 2015 and again in 2019.. https://www.hillierhopkins.co.uk/here-for-you/internationally-mobile-individuals/everything-you-need-to-know-about-non-resident-capital-gains-tax-on-uk-properties

If you already have a property empire consider moving to a country like Belgium that doesn't have CGT. You have to be resident there for 5 years and its unwise to retain a home in the UK for the duration.

Who exactly is building the house? You or a company you own? If the CIL has been implemented in your area what have you done about that? My understanding is... If you are building it to live in yourself then you might avoid CGT because when you eventually sell it will be your Principle Private Residence. There might be CGT to pay on your current house but only on the gain since you move out (?) and there is scope to avoid that if sold within 2 (?) Years. If you are building it to sell and make a profit the you might be taxed as a developer and have to pay income tax on the profit. If you build and then hold it as an investment/holiday let/Air BnB you might avoid income tax on the sale profit but pay CGT when sold. If you build it and let it on a long lease you can avoid income tax but loose the ability to reclaim VAT or may have to repay any VAT claimed. HMRC sometimes look at your intentions at the outset so it might not be possible to change your mind later. What have you already told any lender you plan to do? See also.. https://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/experts/article-3420863/We-thinking-building-house-garden-pay-CGT-sold-it.html

Except it isn't and never was a party wall. The wall is entirely on his land. Yet the neighbour appears to have put his roof joists on top of it,

And most people install a quad LNB so you want 4 cable runs. Typically 2 to each Freesat box. Thats because some channels are vertically polarised and others horizontally. Having 2 allows you to watch one and record another of different polarity.