Temp

Before WW2 Black was sometimes earth and Green was sometimes a phase and i think BT used red for earth?

I agree with others about trying to find the source. I suspect a roof or gutter issue but you say none of the upstairs rooms are affected? Is any of it below an upstairs window? Certainly looks like a water issue because the problem areas appear to form vertical bands in the photos. I've found Zinsser paint very good. Had lot of issues with paint coming off ceiling above a shower. Flaking and powdery patches. Zinsser worked a treat. I was lazy and didn't paint the whole ceiling and you can clearly see now where the zinsser ends as we have a little mould after that point. Will be doing the rest of the ceiling. I've used the Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 primer with their Perma White interior over the top. Think I would try the "Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Deep Tint Primer" on its own on some of your problem spots. See if that survives before doing larger areas.

Same compressive strength?

A standard accumulator needs good mains pressure but can boost the flow rate. It works by filling up slowly from the mains then delivering it rapidly to outlets. You end up with improved flow at about mains pressure I don't believe that type will work well for you because the mains pressure is on the low side. I think you need a system with a pump to boost pressure as well I'm not that familiar with the rules on pumped systems (I didn't think you can pump the mains directly?). See what others say. PS I assume you have checked all valves are fully open and any filters aren't blocked/scaled. Might also be worth checking what the water co is obliged to deliver. They are obliged to maintain 0.7 bar where the pipe comes onto your land but at what flow rate? PPS It could be your best bet is upgrading the supply pipe. Depends what the pressure is like in the road.

Have you got a structural ridge beam? What stops rafter spread pushing the lintel off the wall?

I believe you need house and garage on one Planning Grant for the garage to be zero rated. It might not be possible to ammend the existing Planning Grant.. https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Material_amendment_to_planning_permission

Think most can manage 80-100 mm bend rads.

I'm not aware of any planning rule that adversely affects L shape outbuildings specifically.

I had look but the nearest I could find is this - but its to do with Planning not Building Warrant.. https://www.sepa.org.uk/media/163472/water_assessment_and_drainage_assessment_guide.pdf But also found this written in 2001. Perhaps out of date? https://www.lawscot.org.uk/members/journal/issues/vol-46-issue-03/taking-the-lid-off/

We lived in a house in Belgium that had a solid first floor. Loved that so much we used Beam and Block for both ground and first floor when we did our self build I England. That required us to use blocks for the walls. No problems with a nice stone floor in the bathrooms as all rooms upstairs have UFH in screed just like the ground floor. I'm afraid I can't tell you the cost difference as we don't know but we love it.

Sorry, No you don't get the fee back.

Now looked at the other pages... Your Electric Account was in credit by £299.39 ex VAT Your Gas Account was in debit by £46.53 ex Vat. Together and after taking VAT into account they owed you £ 265.50 They made two payments to you of £74 totaling £148.00. Check your bank account to see if these arrived. They still owe you £141.93. Well that's my reading.

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I think it has to be more than 1m away from the house to be counted as an outbuilding rather than an extension. The dimension rules are different for outbuildings and extensions.

Got any 12mm WBP spare? Could use that to stiffen the whole thing.. 146 + (2×12) + (2×9.5) = 189mm

Did you send in the CIL exemption claim form at same time as the PP application? If so I suspect they couldn't process it until PP was granted and not sure anyone will have told them.

To get enough heat transfer warm air systems need much higher flow rates than MVHR. A friend if mine had ducted warm air heating and even with the higher temperatures of a gas boiler compared to a heat pump the flow rates were high enough to be noisy in bedrooms at night. Our MVHR is inaudible.

Our UFH ystem is unpressurised so easy to put inhibitor in via the header tank.

Normally only an issue for much bigger trees on some types of clay soil.

https://www.knotweedhelp.com/japanese-knotweed-uk-map-how-close-is-it-to-your-home/ Check if its in your area already. Might help you deflect any blame but best deal with it as it can affect property values and make houses harder to see.

I think its more about getting sufficient flow rate to shift it rather than the pressure. Consider putting some corrosion inhibiter in the system while you're at it. Check the amount needed on the instructions as you may need a few bottles. My system needs something like 3 * 500ml bottles.

Building Control drawings are intended to satisfy Building Control that the end result will meet the Building Regulations. Architects will happily sell you a set of Construction Drawings that tell the builder what to build. They may contain more details not required by Building Control.

If other taps are OK it's looking more like an issue with the pipe to the kitchen tap or the kitchen tap itself. Some taps have mesh filters that can scale up, either on the inlet to the tap or the mixer outlet. By PRV do you mean you mean a Pressure Relief Valve or a Pressure Regulating/reducing Valve? Eg does it have a tun dish and outflow pipe?

Google finds.. https://pumpexpress.co.uk/explaining-cold-water-accumulators/