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Search youtube for "overboarding ceiling" or similar. Several vids on how it should be done/look.

Liability for the CIL only kicks in when you start implementing your planning permission. Until then the liability can be transferred to a new owner. So it's not really an issue. The important thing is to get planning permission and then formally apply for the self build exemption using the correct forms and get it granted BEFORE starting ANY work on site. Note that the planners may tell you either verbally or in writing that it will be exempt BUT you must still formally claim the exemption or you loose it. Is the land part of your mother's garden? If not then you should buy the land BEFORE applying for planning permission. Otherwise HMRC may go after your mother for Capital Gains Tax on the full value with planning permission. Her garden is exempt from CGT but other land such as a paddock would not be.

Yes sorry it should be WBP. In case you get condensation on the outside of the tank. Most timber merchants have a panel saw and some will cut free.

Is the cavity ventilated? If so the new wall is effectively going to be.. Plasterboard. Batten PIR Single Block Leaf Try that in the online calculators?

It's common to dot and dab plasterboard to walls but ive not seen it done on ceilings. Some place recommend dots of acrylic adhesive and screws for ceilings but again never seen it done with just adhesive. Can't find any youtube vids.

182L is going to weight 230kg max. Call it 180kg of water plus another 50kg max for the tank? About same as three people? Think 18mm ply is fine but it does vary in quality a lot from the DIY sheds. I'd be inclined to buy a full sheet of WBB cut it in half and use both bits one on top of the other.

Gyprock recommend a method that uses dabs of adhesive and screws.... skip to 4:05... https://youtu.be/P8fFsnZVEL8

8s thus new plasterboard going on top of old plasterboard or is it being fixed directly to the underside of joists?

Think some clarification is needed. Its fine/recommended to put a VCL on the warm side of a cold roof construction. The VCL stops water vapour getting to the cold side and ventilation removes it if it does. Belt and braces. +1 to hybrid roofs. A VCL may help reduce the risk of interstitial condensation but should not be relied on as are rarely perfect. If you design a warm roof properly you can put some insulation between the rafters but you should not put so much that it becomes a hybrid roof. See my previous post.

No. Think about it this way... Let's say the temperature inside and outside are constant so a temperaturs gradient exist between the two. With a warm roof (insulation above rafters) the rafters will be on the warm side - so there is no risk of condensation on them. With a cold roof (insulation below reafters) the rafters are cold but they can be well ventilated - so there is no risk of condensation on them. If you add insulation between or below rafter in a warm roof you effectively "move" the rafters towards the cold side without providing the ventilation. This risks consensation foirming on them. You can add some insulation between the rafters but I believe its limited to 1/3rd of the total and you should get a condensation risk analysis done. Insulation manufacturers will sometimes do these for you if you send them a proposed sketch ausing their insulation.

https://www.lbbd.gov.uk/sites/default/files/attachments/CIL-Collection-Frequently-Asked-Questions-2014.pdf

@suffolkselfbuild Normally the CIL calculation deducts the floor area of existing buildings so on a conversion with no new building I don't think there is anything to pay. The proviso is that the building must have been in lawful use for 6 months beforehand. So not a retrospective application. There is something funny with the way the 100sqm rule is applied if there 8s a mix of conversion and new. I believe if you did a 300sqm conversion AND a 99 sqm new building then the area used for the test to see if the CIL applies is 300+99= 399sqm. Then since that is over 100sqm the CIL has to be calculated. Its calculated on 399-300=99sqm.

Is it too late to appeal as I'd be surprised if that's a valid planning reason for rejection. Eg I'm sure they can't reject based on what you "might do" only what you have said you will do in the planning application.

List here might be useful... https://www.gov.uk/guidance/goods-and-services-you-can-claim-for-under-the-vat-diy-scheme

They should charge you 5% VAT on both labour and materials and you reclaim it at the end of the build with everything else. Best ask them to requote at 5% before they start work. I assume its a conversion, not mixed use, and not a house that's been empty for 2 or 10 years. If they have a problem refer to VAT708 para 7.1.1 (which states 5% on conversions) and 11.2 (VAT rate on goods incorporated should be at same rate as labour). It may help to give them a "certificate" which is basically a letter you write confirming that the work is 5% rated because its the conversion of a non residential building to a residential building. Include site address znd any planning reference number. I think officially they are only needed for work on charity buildings but they have been known to convince unsure tradesmen. Think there is/was a template in VAT708.

Looks good to me. Think I would use 25 x 50mm counter battens.

I would take that last line as a hint they are likely to approve it. No guarantee mind.

https://nottenergy.com/resources/energy-cost-comparison/ Scroll down and see the table and column.. "Pence per kWh (after boiler efficiency)" Electricity 22p/KWh LPG 11p/KWh So switching to pure electric could double your running costs. However for a temporary or short term installation you need to consider capital costs as well. Note this is for LPG in a tank not cylinders which are probably more expensive.

Sorry the editor won't let me insert an end Quote tag to fix the problem above.

Normally a wall or fence over 2m needs planning permission. So in theory the planners probably could issue enforcement proceedings. However the neighbour could then apply for planning permission and appeal it if its refused. The planners may feel that there is a good chance it would be approved at appeal. In which case it would be a waste of time and money to start down this route. Planners are generally very busy and have minimal budgets. Appeals also cost them time and money so they invariably only go after serious planning breaches. In general third parties have no right to appeal a planning decision and I suspect they haven't actually made a formal decision anyway. Eg they haven't granted planning permission nor have they issued a certificate of lawfulness or similar. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/ensuring-effective-enforcement

There are numerous ways for a 3D printer to go wrong and produce poor quality prints. This one was new to me... Can skip to the cause at 7:32...

Usually 0.5 or 1L bottles eg Fernox F1.

BT have a universal service obligation which could see them paying to upgrade it... but don't get too excited.. https://www.bt.com/broadband/USO If the cost is less that £3500 they should pay. If more then you share the bill. If you club together with neighbours it gets more complicated but that would be worth investigating.

We have wall mounted taps in a single block wall if that helps.

Got any corrosion inhibitor in the system?