Temp

Should look fantastic. I'd suggest putting oil on them soon after as possible. Otherwise make sure no iron or steel is left in contact with them (eg ladders, scaffolding or tools). You could also consider routing the edges before sand blasting but that depends what look you prefer.

Do you get consumer protection if you put insurance/warranty on a credit card?

We have beam and block with 80mm pir and a mix of screed and stone and engineered wood floor. We run the oil fired UFH at 50C. It heats rooms fine but if I was building again I'd put in a lot more insulation as it's not cheap to run.

How about persuading the neighbour to join you and replace with a pitched roof?

Google can find mobile home or log cabin chassis for sale. They seem to range from £1500 to £5k. Think they will only carry weight of a timber frame structure.

That Astro one looks to be adjustable, probably using switches inside to set the current. Would allow the LEDs to be run at a lower current giving longer life as @Radian suggested. However the one you have should work OK apart from that. Perhaps the circuit drawing is confusing because the symbol they use for a connector looks like a pendant light bulb!

I'm no expert on PV but many years ago I spoke with people building a solar powered plane. They explained that the key for them was to operate the cell close to its maximum power point which did not occur at maximum current. Apparently changing the current drawn from the cells changes the voltage in a non-linear way so it was necessary to adjust the current drawn to find the maximum power point. To do that they used a variable pitch propellor. Presumably modern inverters do something similar then convert whatever voltage and current that turns out to be to the grid voltage.

https://www.safelincs.co.uk/a-summary-of-the-bs5839-6-2019/

As I understand it smoke alarms give you more time to escape. I think heat alarms need line of sight to the fire?

If space allows I'd build a separate stud wall to support two layers of plasterboard or even Hardi backer board for extra mass. Sound insulation between stud wall and blockwork. Studwork to be free standing as much as possible, eg not fixed to the blockwork to minimise transmission paths.

Are they meant to be connected in series or parallel? Got a link to the instructions? Sounds like serial but should check.

The other thing to be careful of is anhydrite screed laitance. This can make if hard to glue tiles or wood floor to. https://www.bal-adhesives.com/tiling-onto-calcium-sulfate-anhydrite-screeds/

Think ours is around 65mm with stone on top. Not enough insulation at only 80mm. Works OK but would go for lot more insulation if building again. I would also put expansion gaps where the screed in two rooms meet at a doorway. Eg Don't screed through a doorway. We found out the hardway that it will crack and the crack can be curved in one room more than the other. An expansion gap acts like a deliberate crack but at least its straight and you know where it will be and can tile accordingly. You need one even if only one room is going to be tiled.

One member reminded me of this character from the carry on films. Slightly batty....

I don't think I would remove bricks to add sealer. I'd take the stack apart and replace bits as needed.

Yeah sorry. Google says.. Gas fired power stations are 56 to 60% efficient. Transmission losses are perhaps 6 to 9% so let's say the grid is 95% efficient. Domestic boilers claim over 90%. So a kW delivered by your gas boiler consumes 100/90 = 1.1kW of gas. The gas power station consumes around 100/60 * 100/95 = 1.75kW of gas.

The figures here are out of date but give the general idea. https://nottenergy.com/resources/energy-cost-comparison/ The key column is the cost per kWh after taking into account boiler efficiency.

I've sat in on a few and they were a joke. Two or three members were elderly and raised objections that weren't valid reasons for refusal. The chairman had to keep intervening to keep discussion in bounds. On at least one occasion an application was voted down without a consensus as to why it should be refused. The poor PO had to go off and try to think up some reasons after the meeting. There is nothing to stop you attending just to listen. If it sounds like discussion is going wrong way you can try and get permission from the chair to speak. He might not allow it as the public aren't meant to speak without notifying the chairman in advance but I have seen it happen. Once the chair actually asked if the owner was present and allowed him to clarify a point.

Occurs to me that wind and solar farm applications frequently cover land under more than one ownership so should be possible.

I think I would investigate the possibility of neighbours making one combined application to restore PDR.

Perhaps I missunderstand but that sounds like a regular inspection chamber base..

We went for 20mm engineered oak because its on battens rather than screed. Our rugby playing muddy twins have grown from 5 years old to 19 years old in this house. Only a few minor scratches. It's in our hall way, dining room and downstairs WC. The only place we have any actual wear is on the bottom step of our staircase as it gets used to help put shoes on. That might need recoating in a few years. I'm not really expecting to have to sand it anywhere. On our experience I reckon you can plan on recoating after 15+ years and perhaps resand some time after 30+ years? I strongly recommend viewing samples in natural light at home. I picked up lots of samples at building shows. At the show they all looked good but back home some were very strange colours, nearly orange.

Check the meter number on the bill is the same as the number writren on the meter.

£66,000 per house. 31% margin... https://www.constructionenquirer.com/2022/03/02/persimmon-makes-66000-profit-per-house/