Temp

If space allows I'd build a separate stud wall to support two layers of plasterboard or even Hardi backer board for extra mass. Sound insulation between stud wall and blockwork. Studwork to be free standing as much as possible, eg not fixed to the blockwork to minimise transmission paths.

Are they meant to be connected in series or parallel? Got a link to the instructions? Sounds like serial but should check.

The other thing to be careful of is anhydrite screed laitance. This can make if hard to glue tiles or wood floor to. https://www.bal-adhesives.com/tiling-onto-calcium-sulfate-anhydrite-screeds/

Think ours is around 65mm with stone on top. Not enough insulation at only 80mm. Works OK but would go for lot more insulation if building again. I would also put expansion gaps where the screed in two rooms meet at a doorway. Eg Don't screed through a doorway. We found out the hardway that it will crack and the crack can be curved in one room more than the other. An expansion gap acts like a deliberate crack but at least its straight and you know where it will be and can tile accordingly. You need one even if only one room is going to be tiled.

One member reminded me of this character from the carry on films. Slightly batty....

I don't think I would remove bricks to add sealer. I'd take the stack apart and replace bits as needed.

Yeah sorry. Google says.. Gas fired power stations are 56 to 60% efficient. Transmission losses are perhaps 6 to 9% so let's say the grid is 95% efficient. Domestic boilers claim over 90%. So a kW delivered by your gas boiler consumes 100/90 = 1.1kW of gas. The gas power station consumes around 100/60 * 100/95 = 1.75kW of gas.

The figures here are out of date but give the general idea. https://nottenergy.com/resources/energy-cost-comparison/ The key column is the cost per kWh after taking into account boiler efficiency.

I've sat in on a few and they were a joke. Two or three members were elderly and raised objections that weren't valid reasons for refusal. The chairman had to keep intervening to keep discussion in bounds. On at least one occasion an application was voted down without a consensus as to why it should be refused. The poor PO had to go off and try to think up some reasons after the meeting. There is nothing to stop you attending just to listen. If it sounds like discussion is going wrong way you can try and get permission from the chair to speak. He might not allow it as the public aren't meant to speak without notifying the chairman in advance but I have seen it happen. Once the chair actually asked if the owner was present and allowed him to clarify a point.

Occurs to me that wind and solar farm applications frequently cover land under more than one ownership so should be possible.

I think I would investigate the possibility of neighbours making one combined application to restore PDR.

Perhaps I missunderstand but that sounds like a regular inspection chamber base..

We went for 20mm engineered oak because its on battens rather than screed. Our rugby playing muddy twins have grown from 5 years old to 19 years old in this house. Only a few minor scratches. It's in our hall way, dining room and downstairs WC. The only place we have any actual wear is on the bottom step of our staircase as it gets used to help put shoes on. That might need recoating in a few years. I'm not really expecting to have to sand it anywhere. On our experience I reckon you can plan on recoating after 15+ years and perhaps resand some time after 30+ years? I strongly recommend viewing samples in natural light at home. I picked up lots of samples at building shows. At the show they all looked good but back home some were very strange colours, nearly orange.

Check the meter number on the bill is the same as the number writren on the meter.

£66,000 per house. 31% margin... https://www.constructionenquirer.com/2022/03/02/persimmon-makes-66000-profit-per-house/

Google suggested.. Interference, fast roaming, or possibly inadequate power suppy.. https://community.ui.com/questions/Raspberry-Pi-Zero-W-keeps-disconnecting/5c6ec594-8f19-42e8-9802-dcea68289863 Possible work around.. reboot or just restart network.. https://weworkweplay.com/play/rebooting-the-raspberry-pi-when-it-loses-wireless-connection-wifi/

I think they expect you to use the power supply and cable provided with the TV. The User Manuals here.. https://www.bathroomtv.co.uk/43-inch-bathroom-tv ..give some figures for the current draw. Looks like you should allow up to 10A. Heads up.. check if the TV has built in speakers as not all do.

Made to order. Finished only? https://www.safelincs.co.uk/custom-30-and-60-minute-fire-doors-fd30-fd60/?rating=2&set=5&finish=41&fGB=true&gclid=CjwKCAiAgvKQBhBbEiwAaPQw3MB3a_IA04fdO-8trbb-r-V49NybyQjJqmw4b8MT4KKLidF9aWVuUBoCJeQQAvD_BwE Cheaper. FD30. Not sure if solid core.. https://www.doordeals.co.uk/product/oak-flush-fire-door-fd30

Perhaps I'm being slow but what do you mean by a blank door? A piece of oak that wide wouldn't normally be used as it would warp, so traditionally Oak doors have never been "plain", they have always been made from narrow boards or framed panels. Edit: Ah you mean a flat veneered solid core door. Got it.

WiFi with directional aerials both ends should work. If not companies make dedicated point to point links for 1km, 3km etc. Think they would be around £150. I don't think ethernet over the mains will go that far but might be worth trying if you already had the kit.

One slightly different system here.. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/11498-first-floor-clay-block-and-beam-heating-slab/

Not me but we saw a lot of different systems used in Belgium when we lived there. One I remember used thin concrete beams about 30mm deep with rebar pyramids sticking out of the top. These were laid side by side touching each other like the metal sheets of Metfloor. Then mesh was laid on top and concrete poured to complete the slab. Their big self buildshow called Batibouw had companies selling systems which I think were intended to be erected by hand without a crane. We ended up using beam & block for our first floor. The beam company provided metal clips for attaching battens to the underside of the beams. Plasterboard was fixed to the battens. This gives a void deep enough for wires in any direction but waste pipes can only be run parallel with the beams. If you need to run pipes the other direction you need to drop the plasterboard lower somehow. Wouldn't be hard. On top we have insulation and screed with UFH. We love the solid feel a concrete floor gives the house. Never had to yell at my kids to stop jumping about upstairs.

+1 Google suggests there are several companies selling solar powered gate systems for farm entrances.

No worries about instalation. I have concealed frames and cisterns elsewhere and have had to replace one before. The frame and cistern in this room were installed a few years ago and I'm only just getting around to buying tiles and the pan for it.