Temp

To check if you have Permitted Development Rights you need to look at the previous planning grants and check with the planners to see if the whole area is subject to an "Article 4 direction" that removes them. Green Belt isn't Article 2(3) land so if they haven't been removed i think you just follow the Technical Guide sections on outbuildings. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/permitted-development-rights-for-householders-technical-guidance With farmhouses its not always obvious what is "garden" and what is "agricultural" land. If the garage isnt obviously in the garden then there might be an issue.

Its the other way around. AAV open to let air into the pipe and close to prevent sewer gas leaking into the room.

I don't suppose you feel like lifting their tiles and tucking lead under them.

So essentially you are trying to screw diagonally through a batten into the corner of the stud. If you use some really sharp screws that screwfix sell that shouldn't be a problem. Can be hard predrilling the batten on the diagonal. Id either bash the corner with a hammer to make a flat point for the drill or i suppose run them through the table saw to cut a corner off. Then your drill starts easily on the flat surface.

We had a holiday company go bust on us. They closed on a Friday. On Sunday the travel agent called to say they had done a deal with the credit the credit card co and could offer us an alternative immediately with nothing to pay or they could process the refund from the card Co. Just had to do a form giving the agent the authority to deal with the credit card Co on our behalf. New holiday sorted on the Monday. Anyone that paid by debit card had a much harder time.

So if your plan is to propose a massive caravan under permitted development and at the same time reapply for PP for an extension you should be careful what you call the rooms.

No that would mostly be prevented by the rules on "change of use". You can put a caravan on your driveway or back garden but it's use must be "incidental" not "ancillary" ... https://plainview.co.uk/news/ancillary-vs-incidental

As I understand it the best insulation known to man is Aerogel (fragile and expensive) followed by PIR. So I think I'd go for 100mm PIR with UFH pipe in screed. To get down to 50mm screed I think you need a liquid screed. Be careful of Anhydrite screeds as they can need more prep before tiling onto them. Here it mentions screed with UFH at 35mm. Wonder how you get the pipes flat enough. https://www.easymixconcrete.com/news/types-of-screed/

Im not sure I'd bother switching to auto balancing. I thought perhaps you already had them and one was fault or something. Last time they came up on the forum it was about problems with them.

So I have acquired some 600x400 limestone for a bathroom floor and walls. Which bond pattern do you think looks better? On walls.. straight, brick bond or 1/3rd stagger? On the floor.. parallel with walls? diagonal? Only thing I can't really do is diagonal on the walls because the ceiling slopes and its not 45 degrees. I'm up for a challenge!

Found a German site that says 5-10 day delivery so they probably don't carry stock either. https://www.vigedo.de/hausautomations-systeme/smart-home/systemgeraete/112421/salus-thb2430-stellantrieb-mit-automatischen-hydraulischen-abgleich-24v-24v If you really get stuck I suspect it would be possible to use a relay or solid state relay to control a 240V version using the 24V signal your wiring centre provides.

Its common to have a row of shorter tiles at the eaves and ridge. These are needed to waterproof the gaps between tiles. You can just make them out on the diagram. Not sure about shingles.

Should look fantastic. I'd suggest putting oil on them soon after as possible. Otherwise make sure no iron or steel is left in contact with them (eg ladders, scaffolding or tools). You could also consider routing the edges before sand blasting but that depends what look you prefer.

Do you get consumer protection if you put insurance/warranty on a credit card?

We have beam and block with 80mm pir and a mix of screed and stone and engineered wood floor. We run the oil fired UFH at 50C. It heats rooms fine but if I was building again I'd put in a lot more insulation as it's not cheap to run.

How about persuading the neighbour to join you and replace with a pitched roof?

Google can find mobile home or log cabin chassis for sale. They seem to range from £1500 to £5k. Think they will only carry weight of a timber frame structure.

That Astro one looks to be adjustable, probably using switches inside to set the current. Would allow the LEDs to be run at a lower current giving longer life as @Radian suggested. However the one you have should work OK apart from that. Perhaps the circuit drawing is confusing because the symbol they use for a connector looks like a pendant light bulb!

I'm no expert on PV but many years ago I spoke with people building a solar powered plane. They explained that the key for them was to operate the cell close to its maximum power point which did not occur at maximum current. Apparently changing the current drawn from the cells changes the voltage in a non-linear way so it was necessary to adjust the current drawn to find the maximum power point. To do that they used a variable pitch propellor. Presumably modern inverters do something similar then convert whatever voltage and current that turns out to be to the grid voltage.

https://www.safelincs.co.uk/a-summary-of-the-bs5839-6-2019/

As I understand it smoke alarms give you more time to escape. I think heat alarms need line of sight to the fire?

If space allows I'd build a separate stud wall to support two layers of plasterboard or even Hardi backer board for extra mass. Sound insulation between stud wall and blockwork. Studwork to be free standing as much as possible, eg not fixed to the blockwork to minimise transmission paths.

Are they meant to be connected in series or parallel? Got a link to the instructions? Sounds like serial but should check.

The other thing to be careful of is anhydrite screed laitance. This can make if hard to glue tiles or wood floor to. https://www.bal-adhesives.com/tiling-onto-calcium-sulfate-anhydrite-screeds/

Think ours is around 65mm with stone on top. Not enough insulation at only 80mm. Works OK but would go for lot more insulation if building again. I would also put expansion gaps where the screed in two rooms meet at a doorway. Eg Don't screed through a doorway. We found out the hardway that it will crack and the crack can be curved in one room more than the other. An expansion gap acts like a deliberate crack but at least its straight and you know where it will be and can tile accordingly. You need one even if only one room is going to be tiled.