Temp

+1 But don't go too stingy on the topsoil. If you turf make sure you have adequate water pressure for multiple sprinklers. Ideally you want someone home in daytime to move them around and keep it damp for two weeks or so. On a windy sunny day turf can shrink in an hour leaving big gaps unless kept damp. If any weeds come through use a weed killer that doesn't affect grass like Weedol or for large areas Depitox probably works out cheaper.

My reading is that they might intend it to still be binding and there might be a fee to get approval. However covenants must be written to benefit some other land that is identifiable or they can be unenforceable. Its not clear to me that "the unsold part of the Estate" is sufficient to clearly identify the land that benefits from the covenant. What if that part has since been sold as well? I'm afraid I think you need advice as to if it's enforceable.

I haven't had a good look at your plans but... Some architects use library symbols for things like showers, WC, basins (and furniture) that are on the small side. It's worth drawing out each room on a larger scale and adding realistically sized items or at least checking the architects models are roughly correct. For example your drawings show wall or pedestal mounted basins. Perhaps you actually want Inset or counter top basins with a vanity unit below? They would be bigger/deeper. Shower trays right size?

Some manufacturers of render do/don't approve their render for use below DPC. I would try and check with them.

Give it a go but I have heard of people having their reclaim refused because at the time the work was done it wasn't legal or didn't qualify. One example concerned a large extension. It was originally granted PP as a granny Annex. Half way through the build they got PP changed so it could be sold off as a seperate dwelling. HMRC only approved items on the reclaim purchased after the PP was changed.

ping @MikeGrahamT21

I don't think this is any different to filling a cavity wall with an injected foam insulation. Similar risks?

So the floor top to bottom will be something like this?.. LVT flooring Something? Wundatherm Premium/UFH EPS 400 18mm OSB ? Joists Insulation between joists? I know Wundatherm Premium is intended for direct tiles on top. Not sure about LVT. I suggest you ask them. If you can't put LVT directly on top then perhaps use something like a cement backer board.

Pure Aerogel is the best insulation but in its pure form it's quite fragile as it's something like 99% air. Typically they mix it with something to make a blanket like insulation but that reduces its insulating properties.

Sorry I missed the bit about the floor sensor. It seems Nest do have a remote sensor unit but it's a self contained wireless sensor intended for other rooms. Most stats i've seen use a 10k NTC Resistor for the actual sensor so might be hackable to take a remote floor sensor instead. I added my own remote sensor to a Heatmiser stat.

Looks like some Nest can do that.. https://www.howtogeek.com/252539/how-to-switch-your-nest-thermostat-from-heating-to-cooling-and-vice-versa/#:~:text=Press on your Nest Thermostat,would in the Nest app.

I'd go beam and block if the cost is ok. If you block the vents that could encourage rot in the existing floor. It's also easier to do ufh and or tiles if you have screed floor. Just check the floor levels work out as b&b, insulation and screed are quite deep.

The front elevation thing is most problematic when you have rows of similar houses all set back the same. If there is more of a mixture of orientation and some trees to screen then it might be easier. Although they still worry about setting a precident.

So from my spreadsheet the standard dimensions for wall mounted WC appear to be.. Bolts to FFL: Typically 320-330mm Bolts to waste: 100mm Bolts to flush: 35mm Seat width: 360mm Wall to front edge: 525mm but varies from 515 to 545mm You can adjust the bolt height to change the seat height but beware as some wall mounted pans extend down quite a ways. If you reduce the bolt height some WC might touch the floor! Example of standard dimensions: Ideal Standard Concept https://www.idealstandard.co.uk/products/catalog/toilets/bowls/e0473 Example of non-standard dimensions: Ideal Standard Concept Air: https://www.idealstandard.co.uk/products/catalog/toilets/bowls/e0796

Without a dropped kerb permit I believe it's a motoring offense to drive over the pavement. Google suggests its section 184 of the Highways Act.

Or batten out the wall and plasterboard it so the cistern of a close coupled isn't so far back. Depends if space is an issue.

You can do quite a lot with these things.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-0-90-double-socket-adjustable-bend-grey-110mm/50087?tc=IB6&ds_kid=92700055281954505&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjw0a-SBhBkEiwApljU0t-qsr3tiN-7qcG3DW4B2jFrQX_x3F5pg8VwMy2nQXiWjlhzEgNiYRoCY_oQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Long time ago I made a spreadsheet to work out if there was a standard spacing for the bolts, waste and flush pipe. The result was that most are a common spacing BUT I did find two or three that were different and wouldn't fit. I'm not on my PC at the moment but will try and find it later.

I think you are correct. The half width of original house restriction only applies when it extends beyond a side wall. Which it would do if it joins the previous extension. So leaving a gap should be OK. However I recall reading that planners have argued over the size the gap needs to be. It might be worth applying for a certificate of lawfulness to establish that an extension with gap would be Permitted Development and make a planning application for full width extehsion without a gap at the same time. If they reject it appeal on the grounds that overall the difference is insignificant.

Yes to solvent weld. I find using plenty of adhesive gives you a few extra seconds to ensure everything is aligned. I also put depth and alignment marks on the pipe with a sharpie during the dry run. You should switch to uv stable pipe where it's exposed or perhaps sleeve it between wall and stack. Our stacks are all internal so not an issue for us. You can certainly run pipe in screed but a 50mm pipe in 75mm screed might be prone to causing the screed to crack. If the trap can't move you also need to be much more accurate with positioning it vertically and horizontally. If it can move slightly it can be pulled up to the underside of they tray if you are a few mm out. I think putting the trap and pipe in screed is more appropriate for a tiled tray or wet room where you can screed to the level of the trap.

DIY tiler here.. I'm currently using BAL adhesive which is readily available at Topps Tiles. I purchased about half what the calculators said and when I've used that I'll have a better idea how many more I'll need to go pick up. So far their calculator seems to match what I'm using. Im using the Flex Fibre Plus with a 10mm trowel. That would normally give a 3-4 mm bed but with this adhesive you are also meant to butter the back of the tiles as well which increases the bed to more like 5mm. They seem to have a calculator for each different adhesive. This is the one for the adhesive I'm using. https://www.bal-adhesives.com/products/flex-fibre-plus/#consumptioncalculator It says for 26sqm and a 5mm bed I will need 9 bags or 7 bags for a 4mm bed. I suspect I going to need 8. I'm laying 600x400x15mm limestone and discovering some is only 13mm thick which is causing a few issues. I choose this adhesive because I work really slow and it stays workable for longer than most. 8 bags is 160kg or about the weight of 2 people so not too heavy for the car.

Deleted.

Call it a run of about 4.3m. I think the pipe run can be entirely in the insulation.. If the 50mm pipe is just below the screed at the trap end then there is 100mm of fall available within the 150mm insulation. A 100mm fall over 4.3m works out at 23mm/m. That's within the 18-90mm recommended. 23mm/m is 1 in 43. What does @Nickfromwales think? If that's OK your tray could sit on top of the screed or even be recessed into it by about 20mm depending on the trap used. If possible use large radius/swept bends where it goes around corners and support it regularly on to try and keep the fall uniform.

There is an easy way and a hard way to comply with the Act... Easy way.. You give the neighbour drawings and a notification letter and they agree the work and sign a letter in reply. Template letters are in the Guide to the Party Wall Act booklet online. Hard way... They refuse to agree to the works and you have to appoint surveyors to draw up a Party Wall Act Agreement. Worse case you end up paying for your surveyor, their surveyor and a third to settle any disputes if the two surveyors can't agree. The neighbours are not required to use the same surveyor so this could mean paying for as many as four surveyors. That would be reasonable in my opinion. If it was me I would want to know how far away from my garage you were digging and how deep. If you have a contractor available ask him if he can help you make a drawings.

If digging within 3m and deeper than the foundations of the garages then yes the Party Wall Act applies. There is no penalty for not complying with the act but if they claimed your work caused damage and it all ended up in court the judge woukd take a dim view and might be more inclined to award against you. I'm not sure if moling pipes past the garages would count as excavation for the purpose of the Act but I think it would be very hard for them to claim that caused damage.