Temp

I've used an extendible. D8dnt like the way the top section didnt rest on the tiles so I ended up putting a block of wood under it up near the roof hook so that end was supported. Hate working on roofs. Edit : I see some come with an aluminium stand off for the top end..

Without knowing what the electrician intended I think I would run the following (twin and earth)... One from PIR to the top of the wardrobe (where you planned to put the driver). One from wardrobe/driver to the lamp. One from PIR to a switch to control the PIR. In each case leave several feet of wire (2ft?) coming out of the wall. If the electrician thinks he can hide the transformer somewhere in the wall behind the wardrobe or in the ceiling let him do that. Normally you want transformers accessible. It's probably a regulation as well.

How many zones are planned? If the whole house is on one stat with no thermostatic rad valves then short cycling is less likely. If you have lots of small zones then it's more likely, especially if just one is calling for heat or the boiler can't modulate down far enough. We have an oil boiler and they can't modulate at all so some kind of buffer is almost essential if you have small zones.

Perhaps not since 2011?... https://www.ofwat.gov.uk/nonhouseholds/supply-and-standards/responsibility-supply-pipes/

Tried ebay? Single motor version £55, double motor £75 - still expensive.

Have you looked under labels and rubber feet for hidden screws?

6HP for 50mm and 7HP for 75mm. Humm. The cross sectional area of a 75mm circle is roughly double that of 50mm. Doesn't pass the smell test for me but I've never owned one.

I know people put them on top of kitchen cabinets and the like so a wardrobe is probably OK.

I was wondering if something like this existed for a transformer. Its a ventilated single front for a pattress box intended for sensors. https://www.rapidonline.com/CamdenBoss-CBRS01VWH-Sensor-Enclosure-Size-1-Vented-White-30-6985?IncVat=1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=surfaces across google&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzLCVBhD3ARIsAPKYTcSGkEkqBo7ZWOFKSjfzHPJMXqKJaaYxePzqGikSE7AHWsOljSpE8P0aAhW1EALw_wcB

I think most people hide the transformer away near the light fitting in the ceiling void. I wonder if anyone makes a ventilated in wall box for LED transformers?

Planning conditions have to meet a number of tests or they can be appealed. Ii might be wrong but I'm a bit surprised it's possible to impose a 3m rule as a planning condition. I suppose it depends on the exact wording. For example its technically possible to build over a sewer without causing issues if cost is no object - for example by digging it up and replacing it with a more robust design. This solution might deal with any possible planning reason for the condition relating to the fragility of the pipe. That might make the condition unenforceable or at least open to a challenge. Obviously some bylaw or water company regulation might also prevent building too close but that's different to a planning condition.

I would ask as soon as possible because the possibility of rising interest rates may affect the affordability calculation.

Our house was quite complicated and we used a QS. He took the drawing package from the Architect and worked out his own cost estimate. When the 3 quotes came back from the builders the QS went through each of them and adjusted them so they were all based on the same assumptions (Eg to ensure they all had same provisional sums). There were also some items that differed quite a bit between the builders. The QS discussed these with the builders to understand why they were so different. We then had a three way meeting with me, the QS and the Architect to select the Builder. This included discussing the changes to the the quotes that he had agreed with the builders. In the end the three quotes were within about 12% of each other. The lowest was quite close to the QS's orginal estimate as the ammendments balanced out. The cheapest builder turned out to be the one I had found rather than either of the two suggested by Architect and QS.

As others have said.. It needs to be a rest bend which has a larger radius.. I would make a scale drawing. I don't see why it can't go where you propose. It might just mean you need slightly taller hole in the wall. eg drill higher up and remove brick below. The dimensions of a typical rest bend (Marley) are here..

At attempt to ball part the figures.. From the USA but.. https://home.engineering.iastate.edu/~tge/ce421-521/ishadeep.pdf So it appears you need between 0.001 ha and 0.01 ha of new wetland per house. 0.001 ha = 10 sqm 0.01ha = 100 sqm Has some costs for different types of habitat.. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/6034ef5ee90e0766033f2ea7/Cost_estimation_for_habitat_creation.pdf Seems to range from say £10,000 to £23,000 per ha. Suggests an initial cost per house in the range.. 0.001 ha = £10 to £23 0.01 ha = £100 to £230 So if they are charging 10-20 times that perhaps the running costs are significant. Would be interesting to know how they arrive at £thousands per house.

I would write to the planners copy the archaeological society pointing out that the site was excavated with the photos. We had to pay quite a bit just for a watching brief while a water main was diverted. A full dig can make a project unviable.

My BCO had a gadget that he used to check every single pane of glass to ensure it was coated (and some of my windows have 12 seperate panes). He found one or two that were the wrong way around but that didn't seem to bother him.

At my mothers flat i think it was just a coaxial cable that comes in to a faceplate like box. It's probably against their T&C to DIY or ask an electrician to move but if you are just making it shorter I'd think its a simple enough job. Think I would carefully hand dig it up and make a temporary waterproof enclosure for it all out of the way while the building work is done then see if your electrician can sort it or as per @Conor Think my mum had something like this.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VIRGIN-MEDIA-WHITE-WALL-BOX-ISOLATOR-CABLE-SPLITTER-HOUSING-COVER-TV-BROADBAND/333948721544?mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338624526&toolid=10029&customid=6b53424fd87a32d26446afc804a0580b&pageci=80a491e2-3959-49d1-af51-4143dca5242b&redirect=mobile

https://www.pv-magazine.com/2022/04/20/polysilicon-maker-predicts-5-year-shortage-of-solar-raw-material/. Polysilicon maker predicts 5-year shortage of solar raw material TBEA-owned Xinte Energy says it cannot produce polysilicon quickly enough to meet demand and wants shareholders to back its bid to quadruple its manufacturing capacity by mid 2024. Snip.. Pointing to booming global demand for solar, Xinte said even with a 100,000-ton polysilicon fab in Inner Mongolia due to be completed this year, the more than 1 million tons worth of solar wafer orders it has received from companies such as Longi and JA Solar mean it has locked up sales for three to five years.

How about one of these oscillating multi tool gizmo..

Yes I did.

My understanding is... When an overseas company exports to the UK they should do so free of their VAT or whatever it's called in their country (BTW in Belgium). Depending on the value they should either charge UK Vat or no UK VAT. I think the break point is £135 but that may have changed. On arrival in the UK you will/should be charged UK VAT if not already paid and possibly customs Duty. Any UK VAT charged can be reclaimed subject to the normal rules that apply to UK purchases. Any foreign VAT paid in error cannot be reclaimed but I bet HMRC miss some hidden away in the spreadsheets. If it's a lot of money best consult an expert.

Not sure if mentioned already but.. https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/1621656/electric-car-charging-point-driving-law-changes-new-homes-buildings-june-2022

Not worried but hate to see a gap that could be filled with insulation wasted.

Got any left over Frametherm to put on top of the PIR before you put it in place?