Temp

+1 to what @joe90said. You don't normally need planning permission as long at the windows are of similar appearance but that's a bit open to interpretation. If you are keeping the same basic style as other windows I would just do it and if the planners kick off submit a retrospective application. For Building Control I would find someone to do the brick work and then get a Fensa approved installer to supply and fit as @joe90 said. They should do the paperwork. It's safer to get the window co to measure up after the brickwork is done but if the lead time is long you may not want to do that. In which case keep a close eye on the bricklayers make sure they are aware they need to get close to a specific height. Design it to ensure it's a whole number of bricks/blocks courses. Mark the wall with a line etc. Usually windows are made a few mm smaller than the opening. When you order make sure you check if they want the dimensions of the opening or the actual window. Sorry if you know all this.

Can you afford more insulation? Say 120-150 mm. If tiling beware that extra prep maybe required for Anhydrite Liquid screeds. They can form a weak layer/skin on top called laitance that is harder to bond to. This may have to be sanded off.

+1 Which means he admits it is used pretty regularly at the moment. If you keep the happy I'm sure other neighbours would write you a letter explaining their knowledge of how it's been used if you needed it.

Don't think that can be right or you couldn't have a lawn that close. Think that might be referring to a soakaway. Those are meant to be 5m away.

Oh and if you plan any flower beds or lawn avoid putting hadcore there as it can be difficult to remove later.

Yeah we laid a MOT "road". In our case the site was on a slight slope and clay soil. I would actually dig it out as you would for a driveway base or perhaps a bit deeper to allow another layer of MOT to be added before the final surface at the end. That's because we had quite a bit of soil migrate onto the MOT during construction. Beware MOT type 1 is not guaranteed to be water permeable. Ours was crushed limestone and the dust on it set up like concrete. I think you need MOT type 3 (?) If you want/need it to be permeable to meet a planning condition.

I would say something before the annoying neighbour winds them up. Perhaps just have a chat to let them know you are going to do some building work and will try not to block the path. Not planning to drive lorries down it or anything like that. Hope to keep any noise to a minimum etc No need to mention the letter.

Some guidance here.. https://civilweb-spreadsheets.com/drainage-design-spreadsheets/soakaway-size-calculator-spreadsheet/soakaway-distance-from-house/ Says 5m from house and 10m from other soakaways unless made bigger.

It's not clear to me that he is legally wrong, mortally yes. You would have to prove that you have a right of access over the land and unless it says in the deeds what you can do then it might be more restrictive than you think.

https://www.showertraysuk.co.uk/elements-low-profile-shower-trays-stone-resins-rectangle-1800mmx900mm-flat-top Clear ? 🙂 Edit: I believe that means the base can range from +7 to +13mm. The top can range from +3 to +9mm. Or perhaps its .. Base -3 to +13mm, Top -3 to +9mm

Oh wow. How long have they had this? I see there are a few questions about self build vat.. https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat

As its critical buy the tray first and measure it. The tolerance can vary quite a bit.

Is there anything in the deeds about the right of way? What's the exact wording? If nothing in the deeds there is a bunch of info here explaining how you might have a right of way/easement. https://www.landregistry-titledeeds.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions/information/private-rights-of-way.asp I wonder what other neighbours think about this.

I've used an extendible. D8dnt like the way the top section didnt rest on the tiles so I ended up putting a block of wood under it up near the roof hook so that end was supported. Hate working on roofs. Edit : I see some come with an aluminium stand off for the top end..

Without knowing what the electrician intended I think I would run the following (twin and earth)... One from PIR to the top of the wardrobe (where you planned to put the driver). One from wardrobe/driver to the lamp. One from PIR to a switch to control the PIR. In each case leave several feet of wire (2ft?) coming out of the wall. If the electrician thinks he can hide the transformer somewhere in the wall behind the wardrobe or in the ceiling let him do that. Normally you want transformers accessible. It's probably a regulation as well.

How many zones are planned? If the whole house is on one stat with no thermostatic rad valves then short cycling is less likely. If you have lots of small zones then it's more likely, especially if just one is calling for heat or the boiler can't modulate down far enough. We have an oil boiler and they can't modulate at all so some kind of buffer is almost essential if you have small zones.

Perhaps not since 2011?... https://www.ofwat.gov.uk/nonhouseholds/supply-and-standards/responsibility-supply-pipes/

Tried ebay? Single motor version £55, double motor £75 - still expensive.

Have you looked under labels and rubber feet for hidden screws?

6HP for 50mm and 7HP for 75mm. Humm. The cross sectional area of a 75mm circle is roughly double that of 50mm. Doesn't pass the smell test for me but I've never owned one.

I know people put them on top of kitchen cabinets and the like so a wardrobe is probably OK.

I was wondering if something like this existed for a transformer. Its a ventilated single front for a pattress box intended for sensors. https://www.rapidonline.com/CamdenBoss-CBRS01VWH-Sensor-Enclosure-Size-1-Vented-White-30-6985?IncVat=1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=surfaces across google&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzLCVBhD3ARIsAPKYTcSGkEkqBo7ZWOFKSjfzHPJMXqKJaaYxePzqGikSE7AHWsOljSpE8P0aAhW1EALw_wcB

I think most people hide the transformer away near the light fitting in the ceiling void. I wonder if anyone makes a ventilated in wall box for LED transformers?

Planning conditions have to meet a number of tests or they can be appealed. Ii might be wrong but I'm a bit surprised it's possible to impose a 3m rule as a planning condition. I suppose it depends on the exact wording. For example its technically possible to build over a sewer without causing issues if cost is no object - for example by digging it up and replacing it with a more robust design. This solution might deal with any possible planning reason for the condition relating to the fragility of the pipe. That might make the condition unenforceable or at least open to a challenge. Obviously some bylaw or water company regulation might also prevent building too close but that's different to a planning condition.

I would ask as soon as possible because the possibility of rising interest rates may affect the affordability calculation.