Temp
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Everything posted by Temp
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In theory you might be able to do that but I would avoid at all costs. It wouldn't be a simple lead flashing. It would need to be a proper lead lined box gutter. The lead would be cut into their wall. The ends have to be designed to carry water away to a down pipe etc. They are prone to leaking if not designed and constructed right. Much simpler to go with the freestanding cantilevered car port that @ProDave suggested. It also allows you to call your house detached or semi rather than link detached or terrace when you come to sell.
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If its not a retaining wall I don't think you need infill or piers. If it is a retaining wall how high is the earth its holding back? Are the piers going to be on one side of the wall or symmetrical/both sides? Just the ends? That's how it would normally be done. Some ideas..
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Water treatment plant might be a solution. Perhaps look at this development.. https://www.architectsjournal.co.uk/news/explainer-what-is-nutrient-neutrality-and-why-is-it-stopping-housebuilding https://www.kentonline.co.uk/canterbury/news/why-thousands-of-new-kent-homes-could-now-get-green-light-252518/
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No lead at the bottom, Just a gutter to stop water splashing onto neighbours wall.
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I think anyone doing a knock down and rebuild should perhaps propose the knock down as mitigation on the grounds the overall project will be neutral. Apply for the condition to be discharged and appeal if it isn't. If they refuse to process it Appeal for non determination. If you don't get a response to the application to discharge there is a "deemed consent" procedure. Will be important to follow the timescales allowed. Others with conditions.. There are a lot of rules the planners must follow when imposing conditions. Some make conditions unenforceable, such as those that cannot be met or require you to use third party land. If the problem can only be solved by the water companies I suspect you could argue that what the planners want you to do is unenforceable. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/use-of-planning-conditions Perhaps a group of you could get together and hire a planning consultant to try and find a common procedural way around it.
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Normally they want tarmac from the edge of the road to your boundary. At least that's what we were asked to provide. The rest of our is gravel. Two disadvantages of gravel.. Leaf fall turns into compost in the gravel which grass grows on. I have to spray mine with weed killer. If you have a heavy delivery on a pallet the driver may drop it at the kerb as his pallet truck doesn't work on gravel. I've gotten around this by laying down a sheet or two of 3/4" WBP which is usually strong and smooth enough for a pallet truck.
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What does a PC from our Architectural Technician cover?
Temp replied to JFDevon's topic in New House & Structural Warranties
I believe PCC (Professional Consultants Certificate) replaced Architects Certificates but they still get called that. https://professionalconsultantscertificate.com/news/the-difference-between-architects-professional-consultants-certifications/ Either way they are different to a warranty as warranty companies will point out.. https://titan-insurance.com/architects-certificate-or-structural-warranty-insurance/#:~:text=Moreover%2C the Architects Certificate only,on a much wider scope. https://www.architectscertificate.co.uk/news/what-is-architects-certificate/ -
OK that makes more sense. In the vid he suggests it has to be finished by 2023.
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I watched this YouTube video today and in here he mentions that if you have already submitted you have to finish the build by June 2023 or comply. See from 1min in..
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Think if it was me I would either dig everything out and do it properly or perhaps go for a composite decking instead. I wouldn't go for a wood deck.
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I think if you do render it look for one approved for use below DPC?
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Selling a strip of land vs access/easement options
Temp replied to Conor's topic in Party Wall & Property Legal Issues
You could give him an easement/right of access but I don't know if the land registry will let you limit it just to him personally. I think to be lawful they have to benefit land rather than people so a future owner could also use it. Any such easement would also preclude development that blocked access. One option might be just give him written permission to use it with conditions. You can put whatever clauses you like in there. Limit it just to him etc -
Static electric, living in a Faraday cage?
Temp replied to Jilly's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
I would say no. Yes foil can reflect signals but its very unlikely to make the overall signal strength any higher. To do that you need a carefully designed aerial (take a look at a TV aerial, they aren't just flat bits of foil). Even then they make the signal stronger in one direction but at the expense of a reduced signal strength in every other direction. -
Static electric, living in a Faraday cage?
Temp replied to Jilly's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Ive had that issue with some cheap LED. They flicker badly especially when dimmed even on known good dimmers. Its particularly bad if you observe a fitting with multiple bulbs out of your peripheral vision which evolved to respond better to fast moving predators. It can stop when you look at the lamp directly with central vision. I found the problem went away when I switched to a well known brand like Philips. -
Perhaps contact them to see if this is the right one for £83 https://www.ransomspares.co.uk/parts/dishwashers/beko/wash-pump--heater/829630.htm
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Static electric, living in a Faraday cage?
Temp replied to Jilly's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
https://www.livescience.com/52978-electromagnetic-hypersensitivity-cause-unclear.html . -
Static electric, living in a Faraday cage?
Temp replied to Jilly's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
You mention several different things .. A slight tingling when touching metal switch plates or similar cab be due to a bad earth connection. First job I ever had age 16 was to go to a school with an electrician where teachers were reporting shocis from light switches. There was a faulty earth at the consumer unit. Instead of being connected to earth the earth wire was effectively floating. It runs in parallel with the live and can pick up quite a voltage. Some double insulated devices (these have no earth) can produce a similar effect. Some laptops for example. Foil backed insulation will definitly block phone reception. It can also block TV signals from reaching loft mounted aerials. As for the WiFi causing headache... Many people have made similar claims however if that was true they would be able to tell if a WiFi router was on or off under laboratory conditions. For example when they can't see if the lights are on. For many years a man called James Randi offered a $1m prize if someone could demonstrate that they could demonstrate such an ability. I'm not saying wifi is definitly harmless but I've not heard of anyone that can detect it via a headache or any other way under lab conditions. -
We have wet UFH on both floors. It gets used upstairs. Great with stone floor in bathroom.
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Welcome to the forum. What span will the rafters be? I don't have my span tables with me as on holiday 🙂 but someone can check if 2x4 is enough. Will it be within 2m of your boundary? If so, to come under permitted development there is a max eaves height of 3m. All should be straightforward. Remember to plan rainwater disposal. In many areas you can't put it into the sewer so need soakaway. These have to be 5m from the house I think. Also worth thinking about where rain falling on surrounding land will go. Eg dont want it running down driveway and under the front door of the garage. If that's an issue linear drains can help.
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Google found a photo showing how the Bosch fails.. https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/comments/oqju1i/another_kind_of_shop_bosch_dishwasher_heater/
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Some/many(?) dishwashers have a heating element printed onto the outside of a metal tube. When the inside gets scaled up this increases the thermal resistance between the heating element and the water eg the water doesn't remove heat from the element fast enough. When this happens the element can overheat and burn out. Usually happens at the bottom where the scale is thicker. Happened twice on our Bosch. Very visible once you have it out of the machine. Annoyingly on the Bosch you have to buy a pump assembly as they only sell it as a complete unit, I can't just buy the tube and element. We now put a bottle of white vinegar in it every week to try and stop the scale forming. You have to put it in after the machine does its initial pump out or the vinegar will also get pumped straight out. Can be a normal wash
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Google found a discussion.. https://ext.pavingexpert.com/brewcabin/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=13430
