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Beware you might need Planning Permission for a "fence" that tall. Only likely to be a problem if a neighbour complains but you know what some people are like.

Yes, a knock down and rebuild is zero rated. Might allow the ground floor to be better insulated. Could also be bigger if planning permission obtained. VAT 708... https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708

I had a nice Karcher until I left it in the garage over winter. Whatever water was left in it froze 😞

Hybris has changed over the years. Data sheet currently says the Thermal Conductivity is 0.033 W/m.k The equivalent for PIR/PUR insulation is 0.021 to 0.028 W/m.k. Rockwool is about the same as Hybris 0.035 W/m.k. Lower numbers are better. These number are for a unit thickness (1m thick!) so you can (only) compare them if the thickness of each is the same. Before you buy your garden room ask what thickness of insulation they provide or what the U-Value of the wall and ceiling will be. Hybris is available from 50mm to 205mm thick. So anywhere from poor to pretty good depending on how thick they use. If you insulate it yourself I'd look at Rockwool between studwork and possibly a layer of PIR/PUR or insulated plaster board on the inside. Rigid insulation like PIR/PUR is hard to cut accurately to fit between studwork where as Rockwool can be cut oversize and squashed in.

Think I would just cast by own block with the duct through it. Chuck in some rebar above the duct for good measure. If you were drilling a hole in the wall for an extractor fan you wouldn't worry about adding a lintel above it.

So currently nothing over the pug screed? I'm not sure if cement board is rated for use as a structural floor but if it is that's what I'd use as it conducts better than plywood. Whatever you do you will need to discuss it with the tiler. He won't warranty his work unless he's happy with what he's laying onto.

Possibly. There are two schemes: Empty for 2 years - Vat 5%. I believe you need to use a VAT registered builder to do the work. He will reclaim the excess VAT on materials he buys. I don't think there is a reclaim scheme for DIY'ers. Empty for 10 years - Vat 0%. You can DIY the work or hire a builder. You can reclaim the VAT paid on materials using the same forms for self builders. I believe labour should be zero rated to you as it is for self builders (so nothing to reclaim on that element). In both cases the property must (normally) have been empty for the 2/10 years prior to starting work. However I believe (check) you can move in a few days after starting work and for the duration of the work. So did you move in on completion day or did you own it and start work on it for a short period before actually moving in? What paperwork can you find to support that? A lot of the rules are in VAT 708 although its written as guidance for a builder rather than an owner.. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708 However there is an exception to the "must be empty rule", at least for the 2 year scheme. VAT Notice 708 has this second rule which might help others qualify if not you..

How do people stop fine filters getting blocked quickly? We live in a rural area but half a mile from a busy dual carriage way. Our MVHR system has a very coarse filter that really only stops insects - but even that gets blocked in 2-3 months. By coarse I mean something like this..

If you are building in the same position I can see it makes sense to use the one contractor. Then he can't argue the site prep wasn't adequate. If you are building in a different place on the site it should be less of sn issue.

Our builder was a stickler for checking stuff like this. Never drilled, cut, ordered or built anything until he had actual thing that was going to fit in it. So things like windows weren't ordered until he built all the openings. Said he was fed up getting caught out.

It's not hard to find lots of people complaining about cooking smells from a neighbours vent blowing into their garden. That's possibly what they are worried about.

Possibly this 95mm high trap.. https://www.toolstation.com/espace-extra-flat-sink-trap-1-12/p87482?store=GL&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dt&pcrid=558023894541&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAjws8yUBhA1EiwAi_tpEfnXG6GJstI6NwBbPfklp4PhPGIUkfdPjlYFBIDbztDNQcc-XWffIhoCsC4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

You can cite that rainwater harvesting is an accepted method of reducing nutrient emissions attributable to surface water.. https://www.waterwise.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/A-Review-of-Water-Neutrality-in-the-UK-03.02.2021-1-1.pdf

If your condition only applies to surface water I would make that absolutely clear in an application to discharge. Propose a soakaway on the grounds that this will be nutrient neutral as it maintains current surface water outflows to ground water. Ask them to consult Natural England.

In theory you might be able to do that but I would avoid at all costs. It wouldn't be a simple lead flashing. It would need to be a proper lead lined box gutter. The lead would be cut into their wall. The ends have to be designed to carry water away to a down pipe etc. They are prone to leaking if not designed and constructed right. Much simpler to go with the freestanding cantilevered car port that @ProDave suggested. It also allows you to call your house detached or semi rather than link detached or terrace when you come to sell.

If its not a retaining wall I don't think you need infill or piers. If it is a retaining wall how high is the earth its holding back? Are the piers going to be on one side of the wall or symmetrical/both sides? Just the ends? That's how it would normally be done. Some ideas..

Solution found in Havant.. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-hampshire-61490791

Water treatment plant might be a solution. Perhaps look at this development.. https://www.architectsjournal.co.uk/news/explainer-what-is-nutrient-neutrality-and-why-is-it-stopping-housebuilding https://www.kentonline.co.uk/canterbury/news/why-thousands-of-new-kent-homes-could-now-get-green-light-252518/

https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/news/nutrient-neutrality But doesn't provide any practical way out.

No lead at the bottom, Just a gutter to stop water splashing onto neighbours wall.

I think anyone doing a knock down and rebuild should perhaps propose the knock down as mitigation on the grounds the overall project will be neutral. Apply for the condition to be discharged and appeal if it isn't. If they refuse to process it Appeal for non determination. If you don't get a response to the application to discharge there is a "deemed consent" procedure. Will be important to follow the timescales allowed. Others with conditions.. There are a lot of rules the planners must follow when imposing conditions. Some make conditions unenforceable, such as those that cannot be met or require you to use third party land. If the problem can only be solved by the water companies I suspect you could argue that what the planners want you to do is unenforceable. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/use-of-planning-conditions Perhaps a group of you could get together and hire a planning consultant to try and find a common procedural way around it.

Normally they want tarmac from the edge of the road to your boundary. At least that's what we were asked to provide. The rest of our is gravel. Two disadvantages of gravel.. Leaf fall turns into compost in the gravel which grass grows on. I have to spray mine with weed killer. If you have a heavy delivery on a pallet the driver may drop it at the kerb as his pallet truck doesn't work on gravel. I've gotten around this by laying down a sheet or two of 3/4" WBP which is usually strong and smooth enough for a pallet truck.

I believe PCC (Professional Consultants Certificate) replaced Architects Certificates but they still get called that. https://professionalconsultantscertificate.com/news/the-difference-between-architects-professional-consultants-certifications/ Either way they are different to a warranty as warranty companies will point out.. https://titan-insurance.com/architects-certificate-or-structural-warranty-insurance/#:~:text=Moreover%2C the Architects Certificate only,on a much wider scope. https://www.architectscertificate.co.uk/news/what-is-architects-certificate/

OK that makes more sense. In the vid he suggests it has to be finished by 2023.

I watched this YouTube video today and in here he mentions that if you have already submitted you have to finish the build by June 2023 or comply. See from 1min in..