Temp

The related stories at the bottom also make interesting reading.

In that case it's far better to insulate the loft floor. Just don't put any under the water tank. You can drape plastic sheet over the tank then put insulation on top and sides. Let the insulation over pipes where possible and lag them well where it isn't. If you want storage build a platform above the insulation. But check the floor joists are strong enough. Sometimes they are only designed to support the ceiling. You should preserve ventilation at the eaves. Air should flow in one side of the house, across above the insulation and out the other side. There are special ventilation tunnels designed to stop insulation blocking air flow when you push it down into the eaves.. https://www.roofgiant.com/fascia-vents/refurbishment-eaves-panels-pack-of-50/

Plastic dolls head floating in the header tank?

Photo?

Are you knocking down the house to build another or is this house and barn unrelated to your build?

I must be missing something but I would remove a section of plasterboard and add noggins/pipe brackets. Also add timber to support the cut edges of the plasterboard if you can't remove a whole panel.

What's the situation with an empty flat due to a bereavement? It's currently exempt from Council tax and the Electric is standing charge only.

To fit 60mm you only need remove a tiny triangle with sides roughly 15mm x 15mm.

Don't use foil tape as it breaks into bits too easily. You want something like a reinforced plastic tape so it comes out in one piece.

Actually if you are already using 60x204 duct can't you cut a bevel on the joist to get 60mm through and reinforce the side of the joist if necessary.

Can you fit 54mm through? Perhaps by taking the corner off the wood joist?.. https://www.ducting-online.co.uk/PBSCCatalog.asp?ActionID=67174912&PBCATID=2828999 Need two parallel paths as 54x110 is only about 6000mm^2. They also have a 60mm range. https://www.ducting-online.co.uk/PBSCCatalog.asp?ActionID=67174912&PBCATID=2829003

Instead of making split female molds you might try foam male molds and cover with tape. After the fibreglass is set dissolve out the foam and pull out the tape.

No render for 40 years then:-)

In that case yeah get rid of the whole thing. Hopefully you've got some spare bricks to repair the holes on the outside.

Exactly how much "banging around inside" is left to do? And is this really likely to cause cracking to the render?

Drill a small hole in the floor so he can see the drill bit disappear into the foam?

Delivery drivers will probably go to the wrong door 50% of the time. So you don't want anything outside like trees/hedge/wall that prevents them stepping to sideways when you open the other door?

https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/6-superstructure-excluding-roofs/6-1-external-masonry-walls/6-1-17-dpcs-and-cavity-trays/

I think I would also be inclined to leave your air bricks in place. Weep holes are used in modern cavity walls instead of air bricks. I believe weep holes are required above doors and windows and possibly above the DPC (only if it bridges the cavity?). Modern weep vents are designed to replace mortar between bricks.. But you can also get round ones for retrofitting..

PS: The nice thing about standards, is there are so many to choose from.

There is no global standard size for the square door spindle ! Some are 7mm, 7.6mm, 7.8mm 8mm etc So locks are made with 8mm holes (?) on the basis that its better to have a loose fit than no fit. Tightening the grub screw may make the handles fit the spindle but the spindle will be loose in the lock. I recently purchased a 7.8mm spindle to fit the lock on our front door and ground down the ends to fit the handles. However for some sizes spindle adapters sometimes called "spindle converter sleeves" are available.

How the flue exits and the clearance around it will likely be the main issue.

If budget isnt an issue I recommended filling the CU with an RCBO for each power circuit instead of one RCD feeding lots of MCB. That way you aremuch less likely to loose power to the computer or TV when a heating element (toaster, kettle, oven etc) gets leaky. Edit: Ours is a 16 way metal Eaton MEM EAM16. Supplied by our electrician.

The only other thing you might do is speak to the Parish Council. I called up the chairman and said I was looking to move to the village and had purchased the plot next to the church to build our home. I asked if I could call in one evening to introduce myself and show him the plans. He lived about 8 houses down the road from the plot. I ended up meeting his wife and kids and asked about the local school and village life. He did ask what the neighbours thought and I was able to say they had seen the plans and seemed happy. I think they liked the idea I wasn't a developer looking to make a fast buck so I recommend telling everyone that.

https://www.constructionenquirer.com/2022/07/28/forterra-brick-prices-rise-30-in-six-months/