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If you put a 2m high fence around it then it certainly won't look like open amenity land, it will look like it's part of your private garden.

Yes. They already said... And we said before a "change of use" to private garden would require Planning Permission and an application for a Certificate would be refused. So yes you need to provide evidence it is not amenity land but has always been private garden. I thought you were going to check your deeds and/or ask why they think it is amenity land?

The planning portal says... https://www.planningportal.co.uk/planning/planning-applications/consent-types/lawful-development-certificate [Quote]The use of a land is deemed lawful if: No enforcement action can be taken against the changes, whether this is a result of not requiring planning permission or because the time for enforcement has expired. The requirements of any current enforcement notice are not being violated. [/Quote] So in your case you are arguing planning permission isn't needed. That means they should only review your application against the GPDO. If an application fails then Planning Permission is required so sometimes they comment on the policies and reasons for a likely refusal of Planning Permission. However the formal reasons for refusing the certificate should be limited to evidence that it does not meet the GPDO. Otherwise you can appeal.

If you really get stuck Google drainage field design for several companies offering design services. Get quotes.

This suggests the AP transmitter power might be the issue... https://community.ui.com/questions/Connection-Problems-with-Amazon-Fire-TV-Stick/dd12a772-0d42-4761-9f10-ed73260015dc I have also heard of an issue where the Firestick has an issue if there is 5GHz networks around... https://community.spiceworks.com/topic/2313785-amazon-firestick-will-no-longer-connect-to-unifi-access-points Are the 5GHz transmitters in the UDM and APs on by default? If not planning on using 5GHz you can probably turn off the 5GHz transmitter in the settings somewhere.

The tiles get hot then radaite the heat across the gap below them. I think the solution I woul like to try is a well ventilated gap under the tiles with a shiny membrane. Problem is are there any shiny membrane that will stay shiny under tiles? Probably not. I think dirt and dust will accumulate. So perhaps it need a regular membrane with ventilated void below it and then shiny insulation?

The related stories at the bottom also make interesting reading.

In that case it's far better to insulate the loft floor. Just don't put any under the water tank. You can drape plastic sheet over the tank then put insulation on top and sides. Let the insulation over pipes where possible and lag them well where it isn't. If you want storage build a platform above the insulation. But check the floor joists are strong enough. Sometimes they are only designed to support the ceiling. You should preserve ventilation at the eaves. Air should flow in one side of the house, across above the insulation and out the other side. There are special ventilation tunnels designed to stop insulation blocking air flow when you push it down into the eaves.. https://www.roofgiant.com/fascia-vents/refurbishment-eaves-panels-pack-of-50/

Plastic dolls head floating in the header tank?

Photo?

Are you knocking down the house to build another or is this house and barn unrelated to your build?

I must be missing something but I would remove a section of plasterboard and add noggins/pipe brackets. Also add timber to support the cut edges of the plasterboard if you can't remove a whole panel.

What's the situation with an empty flat due to a bereavement? It's currently exempt from Council tax and the Electric is standing charge only.

To fit 60mm you only need remove a tiny triangle with sides roughly 15mm x 15mm.

Don't use foil tape as it breaks into bits too easily. You want something like a reinforced plastic tape so it comes out in one piece.

Actually if you are already using 60x204 duct can't you cut a bevel on the joist to get 60mm through and reinforce the side of the joist if necessary.

Can you fit 54mm through? Perhaps by taking the corner off the wood joist?.. https://www.ducting-online.co.uk/PBSCCatalog.asp?ActionID=67174912&PBCATID=2828999 Need two parallel paths as 54x110 is only about 6000mm^2. They also have a 60mm range. https://www.ducting-online.co.uk/PBSCCatalog.asp?ActionID=67174912&PBCATID=2829003

Instead of making split female molds you might try foam male molds and cover with tape. After the fibreglass is set dissolve out the foam and pull out the tape.

No render for 40 years then:-)

In that case yeah get rid of the whole thing. Hopefully you've got some spare bricks to repair the holes on the outside.

Exactly how much "banging around inside" is left to do? And is this really likely to cause cracking to the render?

Drill a small hole in the floor so he can see the drill bit disappear into the foam?

Delivery drivers will probably go to the wrong door 50% of the time. So you don't want anything outside like trees/hedge/wall that prevents them stepping to sideways when you open the other door?

https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/6-superstructure-excluding-roofs/6-1-external-masonry-walls/6-1-17-dpcs-and-cavity-trays/

I think I would also be inclined to leave your air bricks in place. Weep holes are used in modern cavity walls instead of air bricks. I believe weep holes are required above doors and windows and possibly above the DPC (only if it bridges the cavity?). Modern weep vents are designed to replace mortar between bricks.. But you can also get round ones for retrofitting..