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A lot depends on what other houses are already there. If the houses either side are clones of each other and very obviously face and front the road the its more likely a new one between them woukd have yo be similar. If you already have a random mix of designs and orientations, perhaps screened from the road by trees then it's going to be a lot less of a problem.

It occurs to me boaters might see posts as convenient things to tie up to.

Get a report from an arboriculturist stating your plans will have no impact on any TPO trees and appeal. PS: in case not obvious.. If your report says there will be an impact you don't have to use it. Get another or ammend your plans and resubmit.

I don't think You have to account for the water consumed by sheep in part G 🙂 I think outside taps are assumed to contribute a fixed 5L per person per day.

My son and I have built two different Bluetooth amps in the past two years. The most recent used one of these.. https://www.tinyosshop.com/tsa7800b 2 x 50W + 100W 2.1 Channels Bluetooth+DSP Amplifier Board It was chosen because its got a DSP engine on it which supports AMD SigmaStudio. This allows you to drag and drop functional blocks on your PC to make digital mixers and filters etc. For example his is set up to turn the standard stereo signal into left, right and sub channels. At max power the distortion spec is pretty poor as it's a class D amp but at normal listening levels it sounds very good. Prior to that we built a smaller unit using one of these.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/OWAYKEY-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Channel-Output/dp/B08KYGQ1ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1A3DJCMM8Z2EY&keywords=OWAYKEY+Mini+Bluetooth+Amplifier+50W%2B50W+Dual+Channel+Power+Output%2C+Bluetooth%2B+AUX%2B+USB+Input&qid=1658104867&s=electronics&sprefix=owaykey+mini+bluetooth+amplifier+50w%2B50w+dual+channel+power+output+bluetooth%2B+aux%2B+usb+input%2Celectronics%2C439&sr=1-1 In the wooden lid of the box we also itted a wireless charger module. So all you do it put your iPhone on top of the box and it streams music and charges the phone at same time. I can't remember if it was this one exactly. We purchased a few and can't remember which we used in the end. Some were better at charging his iPhone than others.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DC3JL89/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For this one we used a pair of small speakers from a PC sound system all in the same box as the above. Power output is modest but way more than the speakers could handle. Again I was impressed with the sound quality at normal listening levels. Think it also needed a DC-DC converter to power the wireless charger from same mains adaptor as the Amp module.

Google found a calculator here but I've not used it... https://wrcpartgcalculator.co.uk/Calculator.aspx

The DPC is normally 150mm above ground level (three brick courses). How high have they put it in the wall? You don't really want to lower the ground level outside if that will form a trench that potentialoy fills up with water. Instead the DPC goes higher up and the DPM on the inside laps up the wall. Building Control should be involved due to the scale of the work. Might be worth double checking they have recieved a Building Control notice at least.

Building Control might allow a combined connection but what about the water co? Do they still allow new combined connections? Best not give your details if you call to ask.

I think its unlikely unless you set out from the start to minimise consumption. If you take off the shelf figures... https://www.mesh-energy.com/insights/thinking-about-installing-a-heat-pump-dont-forget-this-critical-service https://www.deegesolar.co.uk/do_solar_panels_work_in_the_winter/#:~:text=According to the Energy Saving,to generate electricity for you! So does that suggest a 6kW load needs at least a 30kW solar array? And battery storage to smooth out supply and demand? I know its possible to do better but isn't going to be something you can just throw together. Might need to start with more insulation.

I think most fittings are designed for 5.5 bar max. We have several small PRV in out house to stop splashing from wash basins. I find they need to be cleaned or adjusted every few years to restore the original flow rate so make sure its accessible.

I suspect the planners don't want every development to propose their own solution even if that were possible because of the extra work it gives them to check it. They might also be worried about the legal implications if its later found they approved lot of developments with dodgy schemes.

Not me but... I believe adding one to an existing completed house is standard rated. Adding one to a new house under construction I would expect to be zero rated to you if "supply and fit" or reclaimable if you buy the charger. The labour for fitting it should be zero rated. My guess is that many companies have never fitted one to a new house so might not understand that it should be zero rated. In that case it might be easier to buy the charger yourself and get it fitted, then reclaim the VAT with the rest of the reclaim for your house. This may affect any warranty though?

I'm not sure what the planning status is but I'd get that sorted first.

This place sells 70x70 plastic posts in brown or grey and various lengths but they are made to order so check leadtime. https://www.kedel.co.uk/mixed-plastic-lumber/recycled-mixed-plastic-square-post-with-point-70mm-x-70mm.html

Google found an example you can look at for foundation trench but a lot of editing needed and your contractor would need to agree it all. If you can't get the neighbour off your back without one best ask the contractor if they have one. https://nationaltradesmen.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/example_method_statement_for_excavation_work.pdf

1. Possibly but I'm not sure how effective they are. If my memory serves me correctly radiated power is proportional to T^4 so radaition is much more effective at higher temperatures. Eg thermos flask or spacecraft. 2. The key is not allowing warm humid through insulation to the cold side. Perhaps by using a vapour barrier on the warm side and breathable membrane on the outside.

I think that's probably an error.

We had a mould and peeling paint issue above our shower. Some of it was also well stuck, some not. I scraped off the loose stuff and used a palm sander (with care) to feather edges of the paint that was well stuck. I then painted it with Zinsser primer sealer. Sorry I can't remember which one (BIN or Bullseye 123). Then a Zinsser top coat. That has totally fixed the problem.

And for this one.. spreadsheet 1.xlsx

Duplicate post deleted.

If you plot a graph of R vs thickness you can also see it passes through 0,0 (if extrapolated) which it wouldn't do if foil or a fixed thickness air gap was included.. Not sure if I can post this spreadsheet.. spreadsheet.xlsx

One way to check is to see if the resistance is linear with thickness. If 100mm has twice the resistance of 50mm (or half the U-value) then chances are the figures are based on properties of the raw material. If its not linear and 100mm isnt double 50mm then they are taking into account some surface properties, for example foil covering or an air gap.

On the cost of a QS... I've seen several quote around 9-11% of the build cost but that did include a lot, not all of which you might need.. Initial cost estimate. Managing and adjusting bids to ensure they are on the same basis to allow fair comparison. Meetings to present and discuss. Site visits and valuations of the work done at multiple stages and advising on how much to pay the builder for that stage. Checking the cost of changes, either those you request or the builder requests.

Thats going to depend on the survey. Archaeology? Contamination? Flooding? Traffic? Wildlife?

Yes. Just be sure to start work before June 2023. See above.