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If your title shows some is amenity land I think it's probably a lost cause. You would need to solve two issues 1. Prove its an official public footpath not just highway. That way bikes not allowed. 2. Convince them that you won't be absorbing the amenity land into your garden. Another option might be to ask them if they would consider a planning application for "change of use" for part of the amenity lan d to garden with a fence on the boundary between the two and no fence bordering the path. It's unlikely they would allow change of use for all of it. You would need to compromise to preserve the screen scene as they say.

You mean it is now going to be indoors? That can be allowed but you need a different cover for it and approval from the BCO. Example.. https://www.kentstainless.com/access-covers-manholes/tiled-resin-floor/solo-industrial-manhole/ https://www.drainagepipe.co.uk/manhole-covers-internal-use-c-282/

I think you would need to show its "garden" not "amenity land". Find that plan that mentions an area in pink or argue no such plan exists. Refer back to the original approval for you house. Check the title plan to see if there is any demarcation. Permitted Development rights are different for Amenity land.

If the Appeal fails you can still make a planning application but that's less likely to succeed because the issues they can raise are subjective. A certificate should be decided on objective grounds. For a Certificate the issue could be.. have PDR been removed or not? For a planning application it's going to be.. would the fence affect the use and appearance of the land?

If you have had an application for a Certificate refused it"s up to you if you want to appeal. But you need to make sure to refute all the reasons they have given for refusal. Literally point by point in the order they list them in the refusal. If they raise any new issues during the appeal process you need to address those as they come up. I haven't read back through the whole thread.. have you checked the council footpath map? If its a public footpath point to the highway code.

Easy enough to make a new wood frame.

I used a family tent for storage and painting doors for about 6 months once but it was totally ruined. All elastics for the pegs perished due to the UV as did the window which went brittle and cracked. Prefab garage?.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/prefab-garage/234592717460?var=0&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&campid=5338743056&customid=jkp_Cj0KCQjw2_OWBhDqARIsAAUNTTGpvIm5R5cBDeUc4rYoYTWsx4KjBnGoFV4SnUTydzM1rez_Qgcr2EsaApDMEALw_wcB&toolid=10001&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2_OWBhDqARIsAAUNTTGpvIm5R5cBDeUc4rYoYTWsx4KjBnGoFV4SnUTydzM1rez_Qgcr2EsaApDMEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&pageci=88a904be-f902-4cdd-955e-a281484eac68&redirect=mobile

There are adaptors for most situations available. Not sure if this is the right one but... https://directflues.co.uk/dinak-dw-twin-wall-stainless-5

Deleted as posted to wrong thread.

In case relevamt.. BC typically want to see the bottom of any foundation trenches before they are filled. Otherwise take lots of photos of anything they won't be able to inspect later.

If the stove is going outside the chimney then some planning needed for the bottom end. Typically would be a register/adaptor plate then cast iron pipe to the stove. The register plate may need a door in it for sweeping if not one in the cast iron pipe or it can't be swept through the stove. Bends would normally be 45 degree max. Should really be installed by a Hetas registered installer unless Building Control already involved. Builder shouldn't really have to ask you for the spec as he should know.

The planners may decide that the existing access is too dangerous to allow twice as much traffic. If so then stress that the planning application will not result in an increase in traffic through the existing entrance. This should be in the Design and Access statement you submit with the planning application. Can you provide a visibility splay for the new entrance? If so then I would include the new entrance on the planning application. If you can't provide a visibility splay then more info needed... I don't think you always need planning permission to form a new entrance. It depends on what class the road is? A, B, unclassified? However you may also need Dropped Kerb Permission. This isn't just to lower the kerb. It also includes legal permission to drive over any footpath. So what class is the road and is there a verge or footpath? Does the highway extend right to your boundary?

Note the bit that says.. My reading is that this refers to your intention. If your objective is to build for profit then expect to be taxed on it. However if you set out to build a house to live in then it's likely to qualify for the tax breaks that are available subject to some condition. Did you give your name your name to HMRC when you called? If so you can expect them to look more closely if you set out to build a house to live in but something happens to make you change your mind before completion. Do check out the CIL rules as well. That could be much larger than a CGT bill.

My understanding is it will be free of all CGT in the situation you describe.

As others have said... your Principle Private Residence (aka The house you live in) is exempt from CGT. My understanding is that if you don't live in the house or there is any question then HMRC will look at your intention at the outset. If you ask the bank for a loan telling them it's a "build to sell" then HMRC may well say its liable to CGT. However if you have a valid reason to change your plans half way through then HMRC may look sympathetically on it. For example if you get offered a job 500 miles away halfway through a self build they may allow the exemption to continue. I'm not sure if the same applies to the CIL. If you took a few years off work to do the project HMRC might say any gain was really your main source off income and tax it as income rather than Capital Gain. In case it matters.. You cannot reclaim VAT on "Build to let" like you can on most houses.

Ideally feed taps from above or behind so they can be isolated indoors and the pipe/tap drained for the winter. Water can expand 9% when it freezes. I thought plastic pipe was less prone to splitting than copper but plastic fittings more prone to failing than soldered copper?

https://www.ispreview.co.uk/index.php/2022/07/openreach-to-cut-missed-uk-engineer-visits-with-direct-contact-system.html

I suspect the recent tree removal is the main reason for the caution. Normally an issue on clay but possibly other types. Good database of soil types and more here.. https://mapapps2.bgs.ac.uk/ukso/home.html Click on the + next to "Add Map layers" and go down to "soil types". Expand that and select "Soilscapes for England and Wales".

I think I would try measuring the ASHP flow and return temperatures before doing anything drastic with the tank. See if the ashp is even trying to make >38C.

A lot depends on what other houses are already there. If the houses either side are clones of each other and very obviously face and front the road the its more likely a new one between them woukd have yo be similar. If you already have a random mix of designs and orientations, perhaps screened from the road by trees then it's going to be a lot less of a problem.

It occurs to me boaters might see posts as convenient things to tie up to.

Get a report from an arboriculturist stating your plans will have no impact on any TPO trees and appeal. PS: in case not obvious.. If your report says there will be an impact you don't have to use it. Get another or ammend your plans and resubmit.

I don't think You have to account for the water consumed by sheep in part G 🙂 I think outside taps are assumed to contribute a fixed 5L per person per day.

My son and I have built two different Bluetooth amps in the past two years. The most recent used one of these.. https://www.tinyosshop.com/tsa7800b 2 x 50W + 100W 2.1 Channels Bluetooth+DSP Amplifier Board It was chosen because its got a DSP engine on it which supports AMD SigmaStudio. This allows you to drag and drop functional blocks on your PC to make digital mixers and filters etc. For example his is set up to turn the standard stereo signal into left, right and sub channels. At max power the distortion spec is pretty poor as it's a class D amp but at normal listening levels it sounds very good. Prior to that we built a smaller unit using one of these.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/OWAYKEY-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Channel-Output/dp/B08KYGQ1ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1A3DJCMM8Z2EY&keywords=OWAYKEY+Mini+Bluetooth+Amplifier+50W%2B50W+Dual+Channel+Power+Output%2C+Bluetooth%2B+AUX%2B+USB+Input&qid=1658104867&s=electronics&sprefix=owaykey+mini+bluetooth+amplifier+50w%2B50w+dual+channel+power+output+bluetooth%2B+aux%2B+usb+input%2Celectronics%2C439&sr=1-1 In the wooden lid of the box we also itted a wireless charger module. So all you do it put your iPhone on top of the box and it streams music and charges the phone at same time. I can't remember if it was this one exactly. We purchased a few and can't remember which we used in the end. Some were better at charging his iPhone than others.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DC3JL89/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For this one we used a pair of small speakers from a PC sound system all in the same box as the above. Power output is modest but way more than the speakers could handle. Again I was impressed with the sound quality at normal listening levels. Think it also needed a DC-DC converter to power the wireless charger from same mains adaptor as the Amp module.

Google found a calculator here but I've not used it... https://wrcpartgcalculator.co.uk/Calculator.aspx