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How long ago was it removed? If more than 4 (10?) years ago you might be able to apply for a Certificate of Lawful Development on the grounds that it's too late to take enforcement action. Unfortunately I think the fee for a certificate is similar to that for a planning application but unlike a planning application, if you meet the rules, they can't refuse one. With a planning application they could refuse permission and decide to make you reinstate the chimney. For example if they think its loss is detrimental to the appearance of the house or wider area. If its a listed building there is other legislation that you might need to comply with.

Discussion on Farming forum here.. https://thefarmingforum.co.uk/index.php?threads/biodiversity-offsetting-anyone-done-it.370772/

That looks like salt efflorescence. My guess is your gutter is leaking/overflowing and the rain water is washing salt out of the bricks. Fix the leak and try using a stiff broom to remove the salt. Some websites say washing the bricks with water or pressure washing can work. Others say it makes things worse. Some info here.. https://prosoco.com/brick-efflorescence-removal-and-prevention-tips/ Personally I would avoid using chemicals as they can mark the brick work. Even scrubbing with a stiff brush can do that so try small areas first.

Just had a look at the calculator and pig/poultry farm land is estimated at 70kg/ha/y. Green field/open space is 5kg/ha/y. So converting pig farm to open space saves 65kg/ha/y. So you would need about 3.23/65 × 10,000 = 500sqm or a patch about 22m x 22m. My guess is you would need to buy it and put a covenant on it preventing future use as a pig/poultry farm or other high nutrient use. But after that you might be able to sell it, possibly back to the farmer :-)

Another approach might be to buy a small area of a pig farm and take it out of use. I think the Natural England calculator has data for pig farms already built in because part of the calculation for a new dvelopment depends on what the land is used for currently. I think it can also handle mixed use so you can tell it your development will replace X square meters of pig farm and Y square meters of other land with X+Y Square meters of development. That should allow you to play around to work out how much pig farm you would need to buy to break even. Might not be much.

Do adjust the voltage before connecting the router as it might be supplied set too high. Will need a voltmeter for that.

We have UFH on both floors. Rooms on the west side get a bit more solar gain than others, and we normally turn on/off the bathroom at different times of the day/year to bedrooms. Some rooms only used when kids are home or we have guests. Some family members like their room a lot colder than others at night. So we are glad each room has its own loop and programmable stat particularly the bathrooms. If you have a large room a long way from the manifold it might need two loops on one stat as a loop is normally limited to 100m I think. For the bathrooms we used a Stat with a remote sensor. The sensor is inside the bathroom, the stat is outside the bathroom door. The only annoyance is that the stats don't automatically correct for British Summer time automatically. We have engineered oak flooring in several rooms. Have run the UFH as hot as 55C with no issues. However we do see some movement. The wood shrinks in winter when the air is dry and expands in summer when it's more humid. This results in some T&G opening and closing slightly.

There are some with screw terminals. Lead time is a bit long on this one.. and you only get one for £10.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Akozon-Converter-Adjustable-6-5V-60V-1-25-30V/dp/B07H5MC6V3/ref=sr_1_91?keywords=24%2F12v+to+9V+dc&qid=1656356353&s=industrial&sr=1-91 Probably similar on ebay.

Powerbanks are 5V ish. If using a battery with a voltage much higher than the 9V the router is designed for I would use a DC to DC converter module to drop it down to 9V. Something like this. https://www.amazon.co.uk/BGTXINGI-Voltage-Converter-Adjustable-Step-Down/dp/B08PNV2GXT/ref=sr_1_18_sspa?crid=NO3LGISDDE5R&keywords=24%2F12v+to+9V+dc&qid=1656347091&s=industrial&sprefix=24%2F12v+to+9v+dc+%2Cindustrial%2C141&sr=1-18-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMFpSV1pHNkhHQVlWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODYzNjUzTzVBWTU3VldIS1BXJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1NjY3NDExRVY3SVU2S1ZZWlJJJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Adjust the output voltage to 9V before connecting router.

Is the friction adjustable? Ask Velux. Google found this but I've no idea ifbit fits your windows... https://www.loftsolutions.co.uk/shop/velux-spares/window-spares/velux-zoz114

Have you got a warranty company arranged? Check their terms an conditions.

How much current does the router draw? It will be written on the mains adaptor or label on the router. Or how big is the power bank you tried? That figure might be more useful.

My bit of Cambs is clay. We got away with deepish trench foundations. House along the road opted for piles that had to be very deep. 16C Cottage between us probably has almost no foundations.

Actually my drawing is missing the perimeter insulation that would be between screed and track.

That almost looks too strong 🙂 I think wall blocks are 2.4N/mm^2 to 40N/mm^2 where as that 310 N/mm^2. Perhaps they measure it differently. I would ask the door supplier what they recommend for the location marked with an arrow below. Does it have to be block work or can it be some sort of insulation and what strength? My guess is they will say blockwork.

Perhaps someone makes a foam filled aluminium extrusion you could put under the track to support it and provide thermal isolation?

I think the compact foam is their attempt to stop thermal bridging. Ideally you would extend the insulation you are putting on the B&B under the track but I suspect it needs more support. Ask the company if you can used a wider and thicker foam?

How is it different? Looks like you are building an insulated cavity wall? No?

The same water goes through the boiler, into the store and out again to UFH manifolds. So no heat exchanger for the UFH. Although the water is the same, the two sides of the store are independent. If a room stat calls for heat hot water is taken from the top of the store and returned to the bottom. The boiler is controlled by a stat on the store and only fires up when the store cools enough. This set up means every room can have/has its own stat/zone. No risk of the boiler cycling when just the bathroom UFH is calling for heat. The above circuit is vented via a small expansion tank in the loft. This worries some people but hasn't been an issue. The circuit is dosed with Fernox F1. There is a heat exchanger for the DHW. Mains pressure cold goes through an external heat exchanger on the store and off to the taps etc. In fact we have two heat exchangers, one is dedicated to a rather high flow rate shower. It's probably the best shower experience we've ever had. The heat loss from the thermal store, all the UFH manifolds and pumps is quite high. Would be an issue in summer if not in its own utility room. The TS could be better insulated.

Our Grant Vortex feeds a 300L store and that feeds UFH and DHW. The dial on our Grant boiler does not set the flow temperature, it sets the maximum flow temperature at which cycling will occur. What happens is the store calls for heat and the boiler fires up. The flow temperature starts rising until it hits the temperature set by the dial (which is unmarked). The burner (but not the pump) then shuts off and the flow temperature falls until the boiler decides to relight the burner. This cycling continues until the store is satisfied. I found the best way to run it is to ensure the dial on the boiler is right up. Then crank up the boiler pump speed so that the flow temperature never gets hot enough to trigger cycling. The burner runs continuously until the store is satisfied. The pump has to be fast enough and the return temperature low enough so all of the power is sucked out of the boiler. If not the flow temperature rises until the dial limit is reached and cycling occurs. I was recommended to fit a mixer in the boiler return so that the return is kept above 40C. This uses some of the boiler flow to heat the return but it only kicks in if the store is cold (eg after a holiday or first time heating is turned on).

The manual for our old Grant Vortex says the return to the boiler needs to be above 40C (to stop corrosion) and below 50C (to ensure condensing).

Trying to get my brain around this. Thinking aloud.. So let's say the PV is generating 1.7kW and the house has a demand of 1kW. With the Iboost Tank Cold... tank uses 0.7kW, house uses 1kW, Export is 0kW. Tank Hot... tank uses 0kW, house uses 1,kW, Export is 0.7kW With the proposed system... Tank Cold... tank uses 1.7kW, house Imports 1kW. Tank Hot... tank uses 0kW, house uses 1,kW, Export is 0.7kW. So the overall effect would be to import energy to heat the tank faster?

Yeah so 25W continuous is 600WH or 0.6kWH per day. That's not as bad as some. Equivalent to five LED downlight bulbs on continuously.

If this will be on your side of the boundary take a look at the Paving Expert website (especially check the index). Looks of details in how to build everything related to paving and driveways. Apart from the base the next most important is lateral restraint for edges and corners. If it's in the public highway side you will need to find council/highways guidance. Same dept as for dropped kerb applications probably.