CC45

Can you insulate between the cold in and the feed out? You could separate them a bit more and put more insulation between them - takes time though...... The feed out is only going to be in use during shower time, I wouldnt bother to put more insulation behind it, just turn the temp up a bit more! Coming on.... tiles chosen yet?

How many people?

The prob with those 90deg fittings is if they leak you cant give them a little tweak - its got to be a 360 turn. I put loads of ptfe - as @Nickfromwales says - fill those valleys. If I did it again i'd bend the pipe 90 / use 90deg joint and then go into the valve with a straight joint, you can then tighten it up a bit more if necessary. All looks good so far. Cant wait to see the tiling....

Ive put a false ceiling in our bathrooms - creating a 100mm void to house spotlights. The original ceiling heights were deliberately designed with this in mind. The only other option is to use airtight hoods at ~ £10 each. The false ceilings are under the airtight membrane.

I buy them from ASDA - I go through one a month I guess - £3/mth is OK.

I've been wearing glasses for reading for ~ 4 years now - also need them for diy. Right pain - they are on / off all the time. drive me potty. Cringe at the thought of laser surgery but its getting easier to accept. Interesting to see what others do...

I think a brickie would have achieved better plumbness etc that the frame errector did. I've spent a long time making up for these simple errors. Next one will be block and brick, blown in insulation and def corbelling. Wet plaster throughout. Timber wasnt a great choice for us since its only me doing the work and with a full time job, progress is slow. So for us no time advantage. Good luck with whatever you settle on.

The pace on this project is now approaching frenetic! Dont skimp on the ptfe - I was a bit mean 1st time (fitted 3 in our self build) and the fitting was all the way in and still leaked. I always put a lot at the end of the thread so it makes a shoulder there. Skimming starts upstairs this week - getting worried you may even overtake my slow paced build!

I put loads of ptfe on mine (thread well and truely covered) & paste.

We are building timber frame - just me and no paid labour. Its a lot of work. The next one will be block and brick but with wide cavities.

I didnt on my last extension. Not sure what they will do if everyone agrees its ok.

Been offering jobs to lads in their 20's - cash. Few hours one or two nights a week. A real challenge getting them there, so I end up doing it. Would rather pay and get jobs done sooner. Sign of the times?

Tray went in yesterday - feels very solid. Thanks to @Nickfromwales for advice.

You will need to use some chunky ones or you will find that the body flexes Q a bit. The valve could do with some screw holes at the bottom as well as the top. I mounted ours onto timber which itself is fixed using some slotted brackets - so I could adjust it slightly to make sure its bang on plumb. Can you use some of this modern reflective membranes for insulation? I know many are not sure they are as good as claimed but will be better than nothing. They are pretty thin.

I will check out prices when I get some time over the next few days. They do look good.

Hi, bought them through the roofer - staff blue hawkins are common where we are (Midlands) - plenty of web sites show them. Pretty sure you will get hold of them down there.

wonder how it will look in 3 years time.....

we've got staff blues on our roof - they look great. The valley tiles were about £3 each - they were expensive but again no regrets.

Its from above it so that gap is horizontal. One side is solid timber (part of the timber frame) - under the chipboard floor - this is the timber that goes out of plumb, the other side is the ply which comes up from the bottom of the stairs - and is plumb. Leaning towards just using Egger d4 as a filler. Not on site at min for extra pic.

The ply in the pic isnt floating - there are spacers every 150mm or so - screwed back into the timber through these. How would you fill gaps @ProDave?

another gap filling query - I took the pic below tonight, the cheeky monkey who knocked the frame up (who obviously didn't own a level or a line) didn't get the timber up the stair well right - so its not plumb - the 12mm ply I've put up there (with PB due to go on top of this) has ended up with a gap (see pic) - at its worst its ~ 5 or 6mm wide and about 10" deep. I would like to fill this gap with something that will help strengthen the ply / PB because the stairs needs to screw into it & 12mm ply isn't very strong (18mm next time) - ideally a pour in substance (the 'cavity' is sealed). It doesn't need to be an adhesive - its just got to fill the gap. Even better would be a pour in and let it expand to fill the gap (but not push the board out). Tight for a foam gun - I wondered about some Egger D4? Any advice gratefully received. thanks

The gaps will be filled with skim or tile adhesive. I just wondered if the gap between board edges ought to have something extra before tiling / skimming.

don't mount the slide rail too low - I did this once and it is a right pain for anyone of a normal height. In the new house I've allowed plenty of height - easier to lower the head than move the slide rail later.... Its shaping up now. When you get the boards up - it will look very different again.

Evening all, Skimmer booked for upstairs for 2 weeks time and I still have a lot to do before he turns up, gulp. In the bathrooms and ensuites I have used moisture resistant boards http://www.resistant.co.uk/tilebacker-moisture/ and my query is about these. Some will be tiled over (showers and around bath) and some will be skimmed and some walls will be partly tiled (straight onto the board) with the rest skimmed. Should I fill in the gaps between the boards? We are not talking of wide gaps here - at most 3mm (with odd cock ups perhaps closer to 5mm - these are very rare), with most boards butted together fairly tightly. I'd hate to think of any water getting behind these boards through these gaps and then tracking down to the ceilings below. I am happy to tank them - I'd rather a 100% solution - peace of mind is better than worry and since I do it all myself the cost isn't a massive consideration. If the general advice is tank - then what products should I stick to? Thanks in advance.

its to prevent short cycling of the boiler - our 24kw boiler will only modulate down to 8kw which is in excess of our heating requirement, we also have an immersion in it - so in the event of boiler failure we can still have central heating / can dump excess pv into it for heating / it does make the two manifolds neater to plumb. Like you I agonised over this and in the end I was persuaded by @Nickfromwales to put a buffer in. The difference in cost for us between a bigger TS and a UVC+buffer wasn't a show stopper when looking at our total build cost.