Miek

I remember trying to clear a blocked pipe with a rodding set and finally resorting to the spade only to find a sqaushed flat pipe like this. Crap stuff!

When the compressor if off the fridge could still have fans running, internally to circulate cold air and externally on overrun to clear the heat from the condenser side. Depends on you fridge i guess.. My washing machine draws 10w to do nothing! Crazy wasteful IMO

Could be that your evaporator coils or fan are clogged up with dust. Try cleaning them to see if the consumption drops

Should work, narrowest toothiest bucket you can get.

That is a lot cheaper than i had expected. I wonder how good a vacuum it will pull? Look forward to hearing from you....

Yes, the port in the LHS in the pic with pink on it. One other point is that there is a maximum length of pipe run for the pregassed units. Mine was 10 or 15m IIRC. Not usually a problem in the domestic situation.

I've fitted a 2.5kw daikin unit, diy. The hole in the wall was an offcut of rainwater downpipe which I foamed around. The copper pipe is soft 1/4" & 3/8" which you need to flare into a cone with a pipe flaring kit. I bought the install kit with the unit to make life easy. This is easy to do IMO. Condensate drain is 20mm flexible pipe. You can hire the vac pump for £100 a week but I chose not to and just bubble tested the fittings. Bought the kit from Saturn sales, very helpful and thorough diy instructions supplied, although they explicitly say that if it is not fitted by an Fgas engineer then the warranty is void on the unit.

That's what I though. Thanks

Just to be clear with regards to sqm. Is that usable intermal sqm or external footprint sqm (I.e including walls)? What's the convention if there is one?

Filsol I believe you are referring to. You can still get their drain back tank direct from the manufacturer. Ive never fitted a drain back ET system, but if sized correctly there shouldn't be a great deal of 'off time' though I can see what you mean about potential overheating. Personally I'm not a fan of the budget ET panels (navitron, Chinese clones etc) and the good ones like the original thermomax are far too expensive.

Not fail safe in the event of a powercut though.

This is precisely why a drain back system is more robust IMO. I've fitted a dozen or so solar thermal systems and not had any issues with the drain back ones (3 in total). The solar twin solution with silicone hoses is a neat solution but prone to blocking up in hard water areas due to it being a direct system. Can be overcome by going indirect but means a twin coil tank is needed.

Hire a strike roller next time

What's your desired floor finish? It's a garden room so thinking maybe waterproof? If not you could batten the floor with packers to get a level, then board it.

You could use a chrome cast audio and a mobile phone. https://www.mymemory.co.uk/google-chromecast-audio.html For £20 you can't beat the value of these things. High quality output too, I use one to stream radio and personal cloud based audio through my hifi. Very easy to use and handy to be able to control everything via a phone.

What's the issue? If its heat loss this would be negligible, the pipes can cross. Bend the pipe to suit the space, or buy a crosover fitting.

Is this permanent or just for the build? Latchways is great kit (I use it at work), but Industrial grade expensive! Guarding would be the best option, but that won't be cheap either. How big are the roofs? Anything for fall protection will need to be proper, tested bolts, certs etc..

More important (IMO) is to make sure there are no snots or imperfections between the PIR and the block work creating a void which would allow convective heat loss up through the wall to the roof. The boards need to be tight on to the blocks which is where mineral wool batts have an advantage as they have some give.

Not usual for a heating dominated climate like the UK. In a cooling dominated climate you might want an external VCL to prevent external moisture in the hot humid environment condensing within your walls. I can't see the reason for it in the UK. Happy to be corrected though.

Good point, could be done with a hand file in a vice if you don't have a lathe.

That picture shows some really well thought out details. Looks expensive. No knots in sight, hidden fixings, mitred corners, etc... There isn't one. Ring shanks hold like screws, amazing fixings.

Why use copper? Washing machine hoses are 3/4 bsp female so just get a... 25mm 3/4bsp adapter

One of the many troubles with small wind is the cost of the towers. Its just crazy expensive to get up into the wind economically. Hence a lot of provens for example are on 6m towers, which is hopeless, you want to be at least quadruple that IMO, preferably more. Let's not even talk about the blades flying off yet..

I like to see a £40k+ bill to the nearest penny, lol

What size holes? Through 50mm studs? Hole saws on wood are bit bit of a ball ache IMO. OK on thinner material, like Steico Web.