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i have worked on a few houses where we didnt build the upstairs, we did however put all the materials for finishing it off upstairs, this was so that the client could get the vat claim on the materials

The RH inside my house would often drop into the mid twenties, it caused cracked lips and nosebleeds amongst other things. It made very uncomfortable living at that level of dryness. My optimum RH for my health is a few percent either side of 50. We rarely got above mid 40’s even in wet weather and mid 30’s was the norm. We are a 200sqm single storey with just two occupants (one of whom out all day) plus woofer. One bath, one shower, not a lot lot of ‘wet’ cooking (although at one stage I was boiling pans of water to try and get humidity up and I bought a humidifier too which was a chinese rubbish job). The level of activity in the house did not create much moisture and that may have contributed to our very dry atmosphere plus our exposed windy location. Retrofitting the enthalpy unit - even though expensive- has changed the house totally. We now sit at about 50% RH on average and the house is much more comfortable. Best retro money I have spent only wish I had specced it at the start but I was told I wouldn't need it when I asked.

When cold outside, the relative humidity (UK) is quite high, but when heated in the heat exchanger it drops. In the meantime the stale, warm and wet air on the house is cooled and so gets to saturation, hence condensation and water drains out. The enthalpy part will remove the moisture from extract and add to supply. Is it really needed? We don't have this, the relative humidity inside is between 40 to 50% and quite comfortable. Perhaps people with some skin conditions might benefit from higher humidity? Not sure.

Because they are difficult to explain and expensive to produce ..! They are also a little more fragile than standard heat exchangers.

My arm was nearly back to normal following the Monday afternoon steroid injection which meant a full 3-man crew. The wagon reversed right up to the garage foundations and delivered the concrete mid way into the garage slab position and we managed to spread out the 5 m3 of concrete inside the allotted 20 minutes. There was a worrying point half way through the pour when the driver said he doubted the load was large enough to get to the prescribed floor tamping level. I said I had rounded up the order from my calculated 5.1 m3 to 5.5 m3 to be on the safe side. He looked concerned, went off to the cab and returned with a bit of paper saying the load was 5.0 m3, so we shuttered off the 2.5m x 1.8m store floor extension to the main garage to avert a complete disaster and then bought the concrete level up to FFL in the main section. In the end 5.0 was enough for the whole floor including the store floor with two shovels of excess. One hour after the pour started I carved a 1 in 10 gradient ramp at the door threshold. This initially looked terrible until I cut the tamping 4x2 batten down the width of the door (2.7m) and then tamped down the ramp surface in the semi set slab. Looking good today.

Finishing grade: well not quite but good enough. Where from? My girlfriend Jackie at Haldane Fisher ?

I think you buy them direct from the manufacturer i think mine where BLAKES. If they come bent send them back, no different than buying anything really. They really are hard to damage, imagine some of the Neanderthal blokes that use them.

My extract motor is set at 25% for 1, 45% for 2, 75% for 3 and 100% for 4. The system runs at number 2 all the time. I have never had to increase the speed and in the bathrooms there is no condensation. IIRC @JSHarris said he had fitted a humidity sensor but that it wasn't needed.

Q: Why do you think you that conduit? Is space tight? You think it will look neater? My experience is that the actual UFH pipe is reasonably flexible and if where it comes out of the floor and is connected to the manifold (direct connections are highly recommended) it is hidden away or boxed in then the "look" is not so important. Q: To protect the UFH pipe? I would recommend having different loops of UFH in different section of solid floor I strongly recommend pressure testing the pipes before you pour. If there is a problem once the concrete is set off, then you are in a whole load of misery to find and fix the leak. Connect the loops to the manifold, open all the valves, fill with water and leave for an hour or two. Fix any leaks, try again. Rinse and repeat (pun intended) Yes. Just be careful See answer regarding expansion joints.

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I have found that no boost is needed in shower/bath rooms. I just leave the flow rate at the same low rate and there are no condensation problems.

Yep... the reason is because humidity varies and you can’t have a “standard” humidity at which to boost. Most people have used motion systems or just a link to a light switch is enough to make it boost when it is needed. Its about simplicity ....!

I wish I had specced humidity sensors and enthalpy unit. As it is I have had to pay vat on enthalpy as bought afterwards and at nearly £1000 not cheap. I dont have the sensors as we didnt wire for them and its a pain as I have to be aware of when someone has shower and zap it up manually. It worries me that when I go away my housesitter will not get to grips with the ipad controls (or forget) to put it up manually and I will come back to a nasty damp wetroom. I have 4 settings. One is a humidity suppressant so if 'off' it will still draw out a bit of moisture. 2. is 30% below building regs, 3. is building regs and 4 is blow your socks off boost.

Only for a new build, not for an extension. All work after completion and a single VAT claim is VAT rateable at the correct rate.

So - this is the white ABS version in situ, and the prototypes have been hoicked. It is slightly out from end to end, but the glue - in addition to being industrial strength and then some - has enough body to pad it out. The edge needs slight tidying with a smear of silicone. I may not even put the screws in. And I have put a bead of silicone along the bottom. That wall mount is a hinge as it is the bath screen reused, but it should stay firm now. Alighnment seems OK. But the silicone bead - despite one of those gummi-bear profiler things and looking OK - is not quite as smooth as a Levy worthy of a visit from a Chevy. And the gap is larger than I would like so I may be tempted into adding a little extra whilst it is still mint. Plus a bit of untidiness to take off once set firmly. So, big thanks to @Temp and a donation coming for BH.

Good lad. If it were me, and I was were I was, eg were you are....... i) accept a bit of short cycling of the boiler when running the UFH only, but do the following to reduce it; ii) take 22mm boiler flow and return to the UFH manifold ( or 15mm if that's what your plumber ( on his mother's side ) left you with ) and tee off both pipes immediately after they arrive at the UFH TMV, iii) fit a 22mm 2-port zone valve between flow and return ( 15mm reducing sets will fit into the nuts instead of olives link ) iv) set the motorised valve to open when the UFH ONLY is on to give a super-duper bypass, and for it to close when the other heating is on so as to not give problematic bypass. Winner winner, chicken dinner. Don't forget to not do that ok.

Bit too late but Google found.. £11 a month.. https://freeola.com/line-rental/?gclid=CjwKCAjw0tHoBRBhEiwAvP1GFXs2dVIBXCkzqqI5MpfTqaEqLPQeB292OKKWkiYzeC57_OsDgz3s6hoCRZwQAvD_BwE But I've no experience of them. Don't know if they can handle an installation.

As a tiling contractor I’ve never seen anyone use the levelling systems I suspect it would be expensive and slow on large areas I and the tilers that work for me use spacers I don’t allow growing the spacers in I was caught out on one job Take your time and keep checking

This may be of interest to you. If your sitting within the opening of ICF, details are floating about here somewhere. I’ll link to them if I can find them.

Pending a blog update, here's a picture of my new brise soleil that had the rails and fins fitted today. Details will follow, but it's too pretty not to post a picture.

FOI the entire planning file for that address, or the earlier time period, specify that PDF by email is acceptable, and you may get the whole lot surprisingly quickly. Though they may try and charge you as it is old, or argue that since there is a scheme to access is at reasonable cost then they are entitled to divert you into that scheme. Or just make an appointment to inspect the file at the office, which is your basic right. Take an iPaD to make notes and use the opportunity to take piccies of the docs if it comes. Angled piccies followed by an image stretch program works quite well Ferdinand