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Hello, Finally got my battery up and running . The installer did my profile to charge with my Octopus Go tariff but he set the reserve to 10% which he said was to do with the warranty. I did a bit of reasearch and wasn't convinced so I spoke to SE who took the reserve off saying the battery has a hidden 4% reserve anyway. Another thing is my production figures are all over the place foor example now on my dash board it says today I've produced 1.39kwh on my layout the inverter says 10.92kwh and the strings say 1.61kwh and 820wh. I think adding the strings together is the actual amount. I spoke to SE who said they were aware of the problem and working on a fix. So I thought I would check is everyone having this problem ? Also I did put my name forward to beta test the customer battery control addition to the app.

I've recently had a couple of these mini-splits (FTXJ35A2V1BW) installed and while I'm blown away by how efficient and effective they are, the UI seems a bit odd to say the least. The Operation Manual doesn't strike me as the best efforts of a professional technical author, which doesn't help. Hopefully this thread will attract other owners (I can't be the only one) and might aid a better understanding all round. Just finding a relevant manual online is a bit of a challenge. The online copy of the paper manual it came with (dated 2021.12) only seems to be available from the daikin.ch website with links elsewhere being dead or leading to earlier versions of Emura. This is the 3rd generation. Quirks Armed with the published info and the Daikin 'wireless remote control' (IR) and the Conecta app on my smartphone, I've been trying to get my head around a few quirks. For starters, the IR remote is one-way so its internal state can differ from the indoor unit if also controlled from the app. This has the potential for a bit of confusion as some functions on the remote control are disabled when it thinks it's in a particular mode, but isn't, due to changes having since been made using the app. At least the app sync's with the remote - albeit with an unpredicatble delay. Speaking of the app, regrettably, the system is entirely cloud based. Previous versions of the WiFi interfaces used by Daikin appear to have had both local and remote access to the settings but this has changed now so everything has to go through the cloud. I'm not entirely happy about this, and neither are the people trying to integrate the latest Daikin models into Home Assistant. Another thing I'm not happy about is the bizarre design decision they made to keep the built-in WiFi Access Point (Daikin originated SSID that's used by the app for onboarding to the customer's LAN) permanently active. In every other smart device I've encountered or developed myself, such AP's only persist for as long as it takes to make a connection and transfer credentials to access the customer's LAN. Time-outs in the order of minutes at most are common to prevent the SSID of AP's loitering and providing visibility to all and sundry in the vicinity. WiFi is not as secure as most people imagine and a permanent but totally unnecessary advertisement that a Daikin A/C is in the vicinity can only serve to add to the attack surface. Other operational quirks exist mostly through necessity - once you understand the inevitable limitations of an ASHP capable of both heating and cooling. The trouble is that much of what goes on has been abstracted away from the UI presumably to make it simpler to operate. An example of this would be the way that selecting comfort mode overrides the fan speed setting - forcing it to auto. On the handheld remote this puts a little cross next to the fan icon but in the app, other fan settings can be selected, only to bounce back to auto a few seconds (or minutes) later. And if the app is used to disable comfort mode, the remote may still think it's selected and bar you from adjusting the fan speed. So that's my opening post on the topic. My next question will be what the small green part of the LED status ring actually signifies. It goes on and off at seemingly random times but the manual only describes it being lit during the on-boarding process (I do hope it isn't related to the AP remaining up, because this might imply a bug rather than a feature).

Yep - definitely not expecting a higher productivity on a day rate. But... Part of the problem we've fallen into is that we have a lot of fiddly brick details that are taking time to get right, so the brickies are losing money on their meterage rate. We're falling back to a pre-agreed day rate for some areas, but equally struggling to get them to site consistently as they can't be sure they'll meet their wage.

Gang/s on day rates more productive than measured? I hope you are right but I would be stunned if that happened.

If you only do that then you will have really small end fill blocks. Put another half block behind the whole one so th next layer will key everything in as it will go over the end half block

I did, but I got more tape and finished it before the pour, and taped every joint 👍

We had a double glazed porch 3m x 1.5m which we used for solar gain. It faced ESE and proved very useful in the spring and autumn as we simply opened the hall door and had free heat. In the summer we used reflective blinds in the porch which we kept closed all the time.

I’m pretty sure many of you can relate … “it must be good when you can do all these things yourself” well yes apart from getting volunteered for family, friends and mates rates jobs. todays ‘day off’ digging out a cellar floor to drain, insulate and re pour it …not in one day!

I have a use for you .

Worth working out your energy usage. Ideally you want to minimise usage, then the problem goes away. Also worth considering car charging. We are heading to a BEV world, so may be better to fit 3P now. You can easily connect up more PV with 3P as well. Don't worry about the system being balanced, that is the electrician's job.

We had 3 phase put into a kiosk at the edge of our property ahead of time, which the electrician connected into when we are ready. We only used 1 phase for the house and have the other two ready for unspecified use in the future.

netherlands is very low and most reclaimed land --so lots of wet ground at not to deep a depth and use brine loops for the bore holes

Boreholes are common in Netherlands, many industrial units now have them pretty central on the building plan with an access cover in the concrete floor.

Yes! That where I go wrong … I need to learn to say NO,

100A single phase is 23KVA 100A 3 phase is 69KVA So they are pretty much saying you can have a normal 100A supply either single or 3 phase. You won't need anything like that, so no need for a new transformer, which is good. Probably worth getting 3 phase if available as it won't cost much more and you don't have to use all 3 if you have no need.

And 0.021 kWh of energy. Can see why we use gas and electric.

We had very low U values in our PH. We heated the DHW with an EASHP which was built into the MVHR system so also provided warm air through the ventilation. The house was heated with three towel rails in the bathrooms. I designed the house so no conventional central heating system was required. We ran the whole house at 23C 24/7.

Before buying a new remote, you could check with LG. You've possibly still got warranty?? You can reach them at ae.svcsupport@lge.com. Just a thought.

That shouldn't be to difficult. It's connected only with 1 plug/ three wires at the backside of the remote.

Agreed, if only considering the performance of the floor. The air temp under the B&B being a lower temp than the ground under a raft won't have that much effect on the overall performance. The external walls and internal load bearing walls however, will perform far less well in a strip foundation with B&B setup due to the cold bridging. Probably worth pricing both out to check on that. You'd need to include the cost of insulation and screed on the B&B floor to compare to an insulated raft. An insulated raft is not difficult to do, well, at least up to the pour. On your first one it would be worth getting a ground works team in to help with the pour and power-float to de-risk that part. That would be a days work for a team of 3 or 4. AFT will come and do it with 1 person, if you supply a couple of labourers.

I've only been collecting external temperature data for the last three years, so I have been using this plus daily peak + off-peak values to examine correlations between these. OVO has recently updated its logging query API, so I have updated my data pull NodeRED routines and have repulled the data from my last 4 years of fixed-price E7 usage, daily actual meter readings (which is what is used for billing), and the reported daily and ½ hourly usage. (The old API reported usage incorrectly, basically because the dual tariff is based on 0-7 AM UTC for off-peak and a 0:00 UTC split on daily billing, but the OVO portal uses UK timezone for reporting and the current version still botches the hour to 1AM during daylight savings.) However this is only a reporting issue and not a financial one, since this bug doesn't impact meter reading actuals. Returning to the data, the strongest trend is shown by the external temp vs daily total power use scatter plot, which fits to P = 60 - 2.45T, that is each drop of 1 °C in average daily outside temperature requires an extra 2.45 kWh heating. I also checked this against my pre-build design calcs which predicted 1.92 kWh, i.e. the as-built house performs about 25-30% worse than as-designed. (See my original post for the likely reasons for this off-nominal performance). Maybe disappointing, but still factors better than a typical new build. Realistically, given that we have an electricity-only home, I can do little to change this line. As I have said, I can't make the investment case for installing an ASHP at the moment so I have to live with a CoP of 1. The main behavioural handle that I have would be to drop average house temperatures a degree or two. The other handle that I have is to control the unit price that I pay for my heating, this is by absolutely maximising off-peak use, and have a blitz on avoidable peak rate use, but I will do a separate post on my plans here.

For the cost don't forget to put underfloor heating pipes in! 😂

If you are too high I would have thought the best solution is a retrospective planning application.

Well done, looks neat and good progress

Looking good 👍 Did you run out of tape, I’d do the cross joints as well

Since you are specifically asking about an insulated raft, rather than a traditional raft, it's not entirely fair to compare costs to strip foundations, unless your going to spend extra on the strip foundations to get their performance up to the same level as an insulated raft. An insulated raft allows you to easily remove all cold bridges at the floor wall joint and with some careful design, achieve the same at the door thresholds. If you are paying for removal of spoil, I'd also say they are actually cost competitive against other highly insulated floor options. If you are on flat ground then the an insulated raft is a shallow dig. A 0.11 U Value is achieved with around 300mm of EPS insulation. UFH can be set directly in the raft and a screed is not necessary, so another saving there. All in all materials costs are actually lower than strip foundations + block and beam + insulation + screed for the same U value, but, an insulated raft needs a structural engineer's costs adding to them to get them through building control. For all their benefits they remain a niche product. I have an insulated raft from Advanced Foundation Technologies Ltd. and wouldn't consider doing foundations any other way on my next self-build.

There are other considerations other than load bearing. How easy is it to insulate and mitigate thermal bridges spring to mind. And fitting services.

Insulated rafts are used a lost for timber frame and SIP builds as well as ICF

I've sprayed a little, but as an easy but slightly more costly option there are outfits like WoodByPost that sell edged sheeting that mean you can make your own stuff. Here's our utility room, all our own sizes and a fraction of the cost of bespoke.

Cheers Nick, always happy to hear that it's a job best paid for rather than have a go and stuff it up. So former first, then tank both then shower tray. That said, if the tray goes in after tanking, how would the water get into the tray ? Follow up question - plasterer has not gone tight to the floor in the bathrooms - says he's happy to do so if the tiler wants - does it make the tanking job easier & better quality or no difference? I have a related question on electric UFH but will start another thread.

@Onoff got his batteries installed I see ….

Because they want to show they are a separate country. Whatever I did, my sister would do the opposite, just to show her independence. @China21 Following with interest as I want to 'expand' my shed, and welcome.

And we can do an autopsy on you, if you like. Just to be clear, I don't think element cycling is a problem, though it used to be with car indictor bulbs, they always lasted less time than headlight bulbs. Down on the seafront at St. Ives, there are dozens of ASHP, usually to cool beer, they are very exposed and none seem to be showing bad corrosion.

Christ on a bike.