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Skip to 3:45 in this YouTube video. Says you can press button to turn on/off....

Here is my first attempt at a One Button radio for a relative with dementia. It works but still needs a few tweaks. The top hinges up to provide access to the normal buttons. I need to add a catch so it's not quite so easy to flip up the top and mess with the settings.

Not screwed on or wired but this is the finished, common, Makita To Marksman/Champion 18V Adapter. Turned out rather well I think:

You might be in luck - it appears they haven't completely stopped. My planning permission was submitted on Feb13 (so before CV restrictions) but never got validated or appeared on the website - allegedly IT problems. Then suddenly yesterday it appeared - with the "validated date" set as Feb13 and deadline for decision next week! I'm not holding my breath for a decision as they haven't advertised it yet (and maybe can't?), but if you are just looking for discharge of conditions you might find the pipeline is now unblocked.

Perfect trailer for the job and when you put a “skirt” on it it won’t look so high up, as it will just make the hut look bigger from the outside....kind of tardis in reverse! I too look endlessly for a trailer like this for the exact same project...... luckily I have not found one for a tenner yet so I can concentrate on all my other projects !

Yeah that’s fine It was a fiver a roll when it first appeared back in 1990

Yes It won’t stick to the cut edge Add a few staples

When you staple the stop Put a line of tape under the stop B Covering the cut edge of the board If you need to square anything Unscrew the board edge and pack off Don’t pack the beads

Just noticed 2 of the biggest passive house certified suppliers have merged: https://www.enhabit.uk.com/enhabit-joins-forces-with-green-building-store/ https://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/green-building-store-joins-forces-with-enhabit/ Obviously they both do more than just MVHR, but these seems to be their biggest area of overlap

What have you got behind the plasterboard to fix on? I presume timber, if so for the first timer I would say clots would be easiest, but the plasterer will take 10 mins to do a job which will take you an hour! Stress to him the importance of it being sure etc and ask if you can check it before he starts laying on

Small galv nails are specifically sold for this. They need to be corrosion resistant, technically plasterboard screws would work but the heads need to be burried deep enough they don't cause issues with the plastering but without breaking the bead.

Staple gun

That looks great, it reminds me more of a railway carriage than a Shepherd's hut. I want one too!

Important note ! For anyone using delta board . As I was advised ‘printed’ side out . I did have a board that appears to be printed on the wrong side . So check first . Not sure if photo will show the difference between 2 printed sides ....

I thought you were well aware of liquid tanking systems? This is the one I used. Forms like a rubber membrane. Yes you just prime it with tile primer and tile onto it.

Why not just liquid tank that strip then tile?

Nothing to worry about. Best stage to leave it tbf

https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/25/garage_conversion/2 https://www.labc.co.uk/news/garage-conversion-tips-from-our-building-control-experts But then..

Hi 18 months ago we found a large (2.85acres) sloping site with outline consent on a small part of it. A fortnight ago planning permission was granted for our contemporary build (full application as our plans were bigger than the red line of the outline consent). The planning officer liked our plans (we had paid for pre-planning twice) and recommended approval. We were almost caught out - the Town Council objected because our plot is designated as green corridor in the emerging neighbourhood plan and Highways were quibbling about visibility splays. So more expert reports including landscaping plan for the whole site were hurriedly done. We own the private road with six houses on it. We worked hard to get our neighbours on our side and three submitted support for our application (three had objected to the original outline application). We need not have worried, the planning committee loved it approval and gave unanimous. So here we go. OnS638_310-05_PROP-ELEV 1.pdf 1039-SCD 01B Landscape Masterplan.pdf

In? Out? Shake it all about! Do the hokey cokey, and turn it round? That's what this building lark is all about In for me - somewhere to put the shampoo ?

We used black Bedec barn paint, was really lovely to use. Can't comment on long term, only been on 15 months.

I bought a blending valve that is accurate down to about 20 degrees although I have found that running it at around 26/27 works best. The boiler is a worcester bosch greenstar 12i that modulates from about 3.5 up to 12kw. I have never had issues with short cycling and with just a wall mounted temp sensor it controls the temp well. I also use it to run 4 x 600w towel rads which is all the heating we have upstairs. I have these on for an hour in the morning in the winter and overlap them with water heating as their output is even slightly less than the lowest boiler modulation. The UFH comes on a max of twice a week mid winter and often only once for about 4 hours. It was a bit of punt as I sort of designed it myself but it is dead simple and has worked really well. My plumber didnt believe that the boiler would be powerful enough to heat the house. Getting a plumber that understands low energy housing seems to be quite tricky.

Although UFH is always less efficient than a heating system like radiators or warm air, because it increases the temperature differential across the floor insulation, and hence increases the heat loss, it is worth putting some real numbers in to a typical case to see the impact of that. Increasing the floor surface temperature to 23°C with a room temperature of 21°C, and a ground temperature of 8°C, delivers about 18.8 W/m² of heat to the house, more than enough to keep a reasonably well-insulated and airtight house warm in cold weather. Assuming a floor U value of 0.11 W/m².K, then the additional heat lost to the ground by having the floor surface at 23°C rather than close to room temperature, 21°C, is ~ 0.22 W/m². The total heat loss through the floor will be about 1.65 W/m² with UFH, or about 1.43 W/m² without UFH (for the case above). If heating the house with a heat pump, with a COP of 3 and an electricity cost of £0.16/kWh, then the additional heat loss from losing an extra 0.22 W/m² in cold weather (the loss will be a lot less in mild weather) would be about £0.0026/m²/day. So for a 100m² heated ground floor area the additional cost would be about £0.26/day (in cold weather). Averaged out over the heating season the additional cost is likely to be around 1/3rd of this, maybe a fair bit less, (based on our experience of the ratio between the average and peak heating requirement in winter). The question is then whether that is a price worth paying or not. For our house, with ~75m² of ground floor UFH and an annual heating requirement of about 1,550 kWh, the additional cost of using UFH over the warm air system we have (but don't use) is about £0.85, in terms of paying for the additional heat loss the UFH creates. One advantage the UFH gives us is that it allows us to heat the floor slab using E7 electricity overnight, so it acts as a storage heater through the day. That does mean that, allowing for our heat pump COP of about 3 (it's usually better than that) we pay around £0.027/kWh for the heat delivered to the house. If using another form of heating it might not be possible to take advantage of cheap rate electricity, which would increase the running cost by ~80% or so.

We had the first Isoquick installation in England and it is a very simple system. It can only get spoilt if the concrete is badly laid. See my blog for details . I can't see any reason it can't be done DIY.

Because the answer to f ing everything is CT 1 How do I mix cement? Use ct1 How do I stick these pipes together ? Use ct1 I’ve got haemorrhoids . Use ct1 How can I fuel a manned mission to Mars ? Use ct1 There’s a global pandemic, what’s the solution ? Use ct f ing 1 !

Sorry but why not CT1? Or CT1 Power Grab n Bond. I stuck all the tiles to the marine ply sides of my bath.

That would depend on if you use the Australian government guide to showers while I was over there they sent to every household an egg timer with a rubber suction cup to stick to the shower door, you flip it around as you get in and take a 3 minute shower. We had two girlfriends of my wifes staying and they asked what the egg timer was for, I explained and the said how do you expect us to have a shower in 3 minutes. I thought of how to explain and did a little demonstration that went something like. Armpit, armpit, fanny, bum and now your done. I don’t know if it was the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or what but they where all rolling around the floor.

Can I ask why it took you so long to complete?