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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/29/19 in all areas

  1. Scene : local pub, Friday evening . Bar is full - buzzing chit chat , barmaid has a big grin on her face - all's well with the world. OnOff's mate: How's it goin' son? Mine's a pint. OnOff : Get on wiv ya, 's your round I think you'll find, matey boy OnOffs mate: Whatcha bin doin this week any way? OnOff: Yer....gorra special job on like, ................. (pauses for effect) .......... bin makin' a church pew The whole bar stops dead. All eyes on OnOff. Barmaid's spilling beer down her blouse with shock, beer's being snorted through a few noses, the pub dog's dreams come true - everyone spills their crisps at the same time. The pub parrot suffers spontaneous lock-jaw, and craps noisily with shock OnOffs mate: Seen the light eh, pal? OnOff: Naaaaah, but I like a challenge. And ( nods at the barmaid) wet T shirt competitions.
    2 points
  2. I've now planed 100 lengths x 3m Getting there slowly The boards are not all totally flat, so in order to get a good finish I need to plane them to 30mm Look great once planed Still tonnes of work to do though
    2 points
  3. It'll LOOK like 15l/min but it won't FEEL like it Have you ever used a basin tap that aerates? Takes much longer to wash you hands ergo does not save water as you're running the tap longer. The reason they do it is to fool you, subconsciously, that the water is running faster, but its not, as a water saving measure. 7.5l/min will always just be 7.5l/min. You can make it look more, but that's all.
    1 point
  4. And not at all unsightly!
    1 point
  5. Yes my one and only trip through Luxembourg was to get to the Moselle valley in Germany. I don't think I would personally install one in that situation. We are a very sparsely populated area here and all low rise. It might not be much fun for the people in the apartments behind you.
    1 point
  6. Be real careful with sealed, box section fabrications if having them galvanised. You need gas escape holes in them. If you don't put them in the galvanisers will. They don't really care where they drill. You can end up with holes, open to the elements in the top side of your fabrication which then fills up with water!
    1 point
  7. That is true for yacht cleaning and polishing potions. A quick route to easy money = decant bottles of Tesco Value washing up detergent into bottles labelled "Pro Deck Foam - GRP compatible cleaner" at £25 a time.
    1 point
  8. Faye: "I thought you went to get f**king ammo boxes!" Basildon? https://www.wholesalearmysurplus.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=Ammunition
    1 point
  9. Usual way is to build up with full bricks to no more than top of rafter level but don't do any cuts. When the roof rafters are on, but before felt/lathing run a short length of tile lath over the last two rafters top and bottom, projecting out to face brickwork. String a line between these to give the desired line for the cuts and then infill.
    1 point
  10. I will once an approval is in the bag for your collective amusement.
    1 point
  11. https://dasoutdoors.co.uk/collections/army-surplus-store-in-the-uk just seen this on another forum
    1 point
  12. I bought lots of plastic storage boxes with lids a few years ago from one of the big supermarkets, thinking it would a be a one off purchase for archiving, but at least half of them have cracked and got holes in from being moved around (not especially roughly!), so now I'm left with planet guilt. I'd go for ammo boxes if I were you.
    1 point
  13. The crates should work fine to attenuate the flow. If the surcharge load from the crates and backfilled area is kept a distance back from the edge of whatever is supporting that lower area then there probably won't be a problem. There's a critical angle back from the base that determines this, and IIRC it's buried in the depths of Eurocode 7 somewhere (I have a copy of that on another PC).
    1 point
  14. They look very similar to the boxes I have, just a different name stencilled on the side. Those boxes might be slight deeper, front to back, than mine, but have exactly the same lid clips/hinges and handles. The nice thing about them is that they are pretty tough, but not made of really heavy gauge steel, so they aren't that heavy. I have a few 7.62 ammo boxes, and they are heavy for their size, but do have the advantage of being totally watertight when the lid over-centre catch is down. These look absolutely identical to the boxes I have (except for the stencilling): https://www.surplusandoutdoors.com/shop/army-surplus-uk/military-hardware/large-brown-metal-ammo-box-british-1170049.html
    1 point
  15. Like the pic but just upstairs, will need a good detail around the windows, but not hard.
    1 point
  16. 1 point
  17. Speculating, you kept one from the same month every third year to give an evidenced and interpolatable trend line, and binned the rest. On first attempt, I read that as 3 O levels and a goose. ?
    1 point
  18. I'm trying to convince SWMBO to ditch the hand me down 3 piece in the conservatory which we never ever sit out in and which is covered in accumulated crap. Along with a couple of random occasional tables and the cabinet the fish tank is on: Now the bathrooms done I've lost my storage space! ? In it's place I'd like L shaped caravan style seating with lift up cushions and storage. It really would help.
    1 point
  19. Toe and heel on a uPVC door is a very different thing to one in a timber frame. I wouldn’t have a panel that big in an ordinary timber door - engineered possibly but that is sadly asking for trouble. The DG unit in there probably weighs 30kg all up, there is no way a glued joint will hold that, and the reason the joint has gone is down to the weight of the unit pushing on the bottom corner. Was it pre-glazed before installation ..??
    1 point
  20. HND? Wow you're clever! My missus has plonked all my ONC notes in the lounge for me to "sort" as part of her current clearout of one of the hip end loft spaces. Sort...she means bin! ? I f**ked up not completing my HNC. I blame cars, girls and drink.
    1 point
  21. Some info here expanding on what @ProDave mentioned: https://www.alextradeframes.com/technical/toe-heel
    1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. I gave up doing that when you look for something you know you have been keeping just in case, and you find a use for it just after you threw it away.
    1 point
  24. Re the doors dropping. That is probably also partly due to wrong fitting of that big glazed panel. We had a similar issue with a UPVC French door once. When the window company came back to fit it, they blamed the original installer for fitting the glass unit wrong. You need to pack and wedge the glass in a certain way so that all the weight is taken on the bottom corner at the hinge side and then packers at the top to stop it falling over if that makes sense. then it won't be putting much if any weight on the outer edge of the door. I suspect in your case that was not done and the weight of glass is causing the door to drop. Are those metal straps on the door a retro fit to try and address the problem? I would not be happy with those.
    1 point
  25. Can you build it out of studwork and plasterboard it, I will include a pic of something I did which isn’t exactly the same but you could pinch some ideas from it. like these walls that where used to separate off the front door from the living room, also the book shelf thingy, you could incorporate this on the ends to store junk that women collect.
    1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. Don't have ornaments. "We" have loads. I keep referring to them as "hard core" much to SWMBO'S displeasure. Was thinking this sort of thing for sliding doors: https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/hush-sliding-door-gear-600x1200mm-maximum-door-size-407687? Can you CAD something up in 3D? Thinking MDF with pinned on mouldings if going for painted. Pinterest is probably your friend for ideas.
    1 point
  28. 1 point
  29. I think if you went down the painted route Pear wood and MDF would be ok. Might save money painting it yourself. Minimise the number of drawers and doors, open shelves will be cheaper.
    1 point
  30. Depends on your budget. I think IKEA have simpler room dividers. At the other end of the scale a good carpentry company can make anything you want. Show them photos and have them come measure up and quote. If I had to guess I'd say a full custom job in expensive wood might be £4-6k but I'm no expert. Perhaps go visit som carpentry firms and ask to see their photo album of previous jobs.
    1 point
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