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My old man's deaf and Mum doesn't know what day of the week it is. Should be fine. ?

Don't forget lads that they WILL cover any beer glass shelf in tat! Edit: Not that I'm ever drinking again.

Jesus! You lot love to complicate things! Here's mine:

I have a wall mounted basin tap, floor mounted bath filler & a freestanding bath. Really pleased with all of them. Most importantly, I also have a solution to the G & T or glass of wine & book dilemma for a freestanding bath, essential to any decent bathing experience. Wire shower caddy £19 from TK Maxx. Just the right height.?

Yep the Mira Mode digital shower unit does this. You time the first fill to your liking, then set the value. Select bath on the app, or push the button on the controller and it fills automatically As far as I know though, there isn’t a system that puts the plug in first .....

I read about Bathomatic a while ago, website seems to be partially not working now tho, so maybe not available anymore. Does everything you list, inc bubble bath, also iirc option for recirculating the water thro heating element so water doesn't go cold while you go wrinkly! http://www.uniqueautomation.co.uk/

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Sulphate-Pentahydrate-100g-2-kg-Highest-Purity-FREE-Shipping/121201879010?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D2743c344f72e4d7f8a5e0d0215d0e711%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D132871662790%26itm%3D121201879010%26pg%3D2481888&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A23641b43-ab2a-11e9-a68e-74dbd1807028|parentrq%3A10fffef016c0ad31c39e3de0ff51a202|iid%3A1

We have an LG Direct Drive hybrid condensing washer dryer with a simple rotary dial and a 30 min wash that seems fine (but we have a water softener). Has a 10 year warranty on the motor and drive system, too. Only slight snag is that it plays silly tunes that you can't turn off.

I was assuming the keep it simple manual switch next to the tap. The float switch will protect the pump if the well runs dry.

depends on the length of the run

We had a moss problem on the concrete tiles on our last house. The moss would grow so thick that rain water would pool behind it in heavy rain, then make its way between/under tiles around a chimney breast. The water level would briefly overtop the lead flashing and trickle in, I think. I cleared the moss but within a couple of years it was back again, so I tried spraying the roof with a concentrated copper sulphate solution. This was extremely effective, and left enough of a residue in the textured surface of the tiles to dissuade moss from growing back for several years. Very well worth doing, IMHO. I just bought a couple of kg of copper sulphate pentahydrate (about £15 from eBay), made a saturated solution in a pressure sprayer and sprayed that all over the roof. Not only does it stop moss growing, but it will kill any moss that you can't easily reach, and it will then dry and fall off.

The render system is from JUB. The DPC boundary to the ICF was taped with a special tape with a fabric backing to which a band of waterproof render was applied. The standard base coat and top coat were then applied. Let me know if you want the specific product details. We had a good few problems with the builds DPC. The builder was adamant that when using a raft ICF does not require any form of DPC. We have a membrane under the raft that should we think have been wrapped under the first layer of ICF. JUB who provided the raft and ICF were not so convinced. We have ended up with the membrane being taped to the raft and painted with a waterproof sealant. You can't render onto the plastic membrane, so a JUB tape with a fabric backing was applied and a special waterproof base coat. The process added cost and complexity that would have been avoided if the DPC had been done in an acceptable fashion in the first place.

We had a 5.5m opening from living area into garden and like you, didn't want to cover. In the end it was actually really fine in the dark - we had lighting in the garden under trees & large shrubs which made for a nice scene rather than being stark. Not overly lit, just enough to highlight the underside of branches etc. Lights on a timer and daylight sensor so on when dark enough but off at say midnight until 5pm. Depending on what is outside, this may work for you also.

From what I can gather, Sage glass uses very little power, so I wonder if it might be possible to fit a rechargeable battery, power supply and wireless controller into a sliding door frame, Including a wireless charger, so that the battery recharges whenever the door is closed, would make for a neat solution for moving glass panels.

Depends really why you want to cover them. I have blinds fitted inside the frame reveals of my sliders in the bedroom to block out the light so we can sleep. They are minimal. In my living area I have 3 sets of large floor to ceiling sliders which are not covered as we dont want to lose our view or spoil the minimal look, I like the frames and want to see them. Our frames are dark contrasting with pale walls. I dont think they look stark but my house is fairly minimal and very modern. Our windows are lit inside from below at night which is a nice effect too. Those windows are south and west facing.

We have 3 per window. As the wire runs inside the reveal, space is limited but you could run it above and extend a bit further either side. Just make sure you have something solid to fix the ends to, ours go into the 50mm batten that surrounds the reveal to take the PB.

We have similar at the back of the house, two 4.5 x 2.2m sliders, facing west over garden. At the front of the house we have concealed motorised venetian shutters which are excellent but given they stay down most of the time and we adjust the angle of the slats, not ideal for a door you'd like to walk through now and again! Our only issue is strong sun later in the day for a few hours or so. We looked at internal blinds and curtains, both really expensive and occupy a lot of space when not in use. I went for a tensioned wire spanning each window (Ikea do a 5m one for £10) and Mrs B. bought lengths of grey linen type voile (also from Ikea £8/m) and cut & hemmed it into individual panels, about 1.5m wide. These attach to the wire using a simple peg & loop fitting (yes, also from Ikea) and when the sun is out we pull them into position for shade but they're easily hidden to the side when not in use and as they're pretty thin they take up next to no space. Because they're so light they only deflect the wire by 1cm in the centre - I may put a hook up there if I can be bothered (you'd probably need to given the greater span). Nice also in winter to make the space feel a bit more cosy. Net total cost about £60-70.

My new BFF!

No, some sort of klaxon and flashing light arrangement is called for...

Just had a giant fry up and Lucozade Sport! Feeling much better ta. No, not saying that at all. I'm on a TN-C-S supply (now) at the house, just happen to have the original TT rod too which is only now become pretty much another "M" on the multiple earth line but its mine. Leaving my rod in place could have a protective effect should the supply earth fail in some way or become degraded as aforementioned. The DNO supply you with a TN-C-S system to your one building, the house. If you were to use their earthing system it's colloquially known as "exporting the TN-C-S". If you asked them officially they might not even let you. So don't ask them! Honestly, just rod the shed end. Only connect the CPC and armoured at the house end. That'll protect the swa itself. This may help. https://professional-electrician.com/technical/stroma-certification-supply-chain/

IS ESSENTIAL!

Are you not over thinking this, turn the tap on and stick your hand under it?‍♂️

I build quite a lot of these and always line them with the door openings 2110 Giving about 1200 from extractor to worktop

We did three months of research prior to getting ASHP installers to come to our property. In the end, we invited six installers from boutique, small installers to large multinationals. There were so many "cowboys" despite us doing our best efforts to prescreen them. It was an incredibly tough decision to select an installer, and we finally selected a boutique installer that we fired on the first morning because they had no idea what they were doing and they sent one guy, yes, one guy, to install the system which included him getting a 150Kg ASHP out of the van by himself. We then opted for a new installer, a British manufacturer of ASHP - the installation of out 18kW ASHP was outsourced to their preferred installers who were reliable and very professional. We have an overview video which we think is very useful.

Sure did. Captain: Number One. Push off, will you, there's a good fellow. I'm trying to take a relaxing bath! [blows into his bubble pipe] Number One: May I respectfully remind you that you've now been in that bath for over three years. Captain: Yes, well, one needs to relax a lot in a job like mine.

The hot air goes down in my Bora which has the extractor integrated into the hob......its quite fun to watch when there is nothing on TV?

Hi Lizzie, Not in yet but I have had a couple of baths just to test it out. The bathroom has turned out really well, full of all my ex display mega bargains. I am hoping to move in end of August. Will still be bare plaster & screed downstairs. Upstairs is a lot further on.

That does look awesome. Unfortunatly my ceilings are not that height and with the beams something like that might look silly. I would much prefer a ceiling extract...is that luxair?

If you don't have MVHR, another option is a recirculating down draft, and the a separate extractor fan over on the wall. For building regs only the latter is strictly needed, I think

Below DPC structural engineer preferred concrete blocks. I could either go for solid concrete or hollow concrete and fill them in with concrete. As the wall thickness is 215mm solid concrete blocks would need to be laid flat as the largest size I could get in solid format was 140mm x 215 x 440 I understand this is due to the weight of the blocks. I suppose the cost of laying solid blocks flat and so more courses comparing to hollow blocks and filling them in would be similar. I decided on hollow because when filled in with concrete they are actually a lot stronger. Also on South side there will be quite a few larger window openings so the hollow blocks when reinforced with steel bars and concrete can be used for columns. You can see on the photo the metal bars going down right to the footing.

My guess is similar, that they are looking to leverage the extensive Chinese knowledge and experience with direct heat exchanger heat pump water tanks (the Ecocent is an example of the very common Chinese direct heat exchanger heat pump water heaters). There are literally dozens of manufacturers of this sort of integrated heat pump/hot water tank combination on sale in China, so my guess is that the idea here may be to do something similar and integrate a direct heat exchange heat pump into a Sunamp PCM store. Seems like a good idea in principle, and the chances are that using a direct heat exchanger might just be enough to get up to the ~60° to 65°C needed.

Wrap and cable tie an offcut of pipe insulation around that leg of the web, and cable tie the cable to that pipe insulation.

Shame on you : MTFU. Buy a dishwasher.

Just a slightly wacky thought, but I wonder if it would be possible to set up a dead vertical scaffold pole in the centre, firmly set down into the ground so it can't move, and then have a 10m long arm that pivots from that to provide a reference to help keep the blocks following the curve? Some sort of adjustable stand might be needed to hold the arm at the right level for each course, but I doubt it'd take more time to set something like this up than it would to set up a line several times on a conventional build.

No so, you will easily get standard concrete blocks to go round with no problem and no need to cut the blocks. Given your diameter of 20m, the building circumference is 62.83m, so 279 blocks per course. The difference between the inside and outside of each perp join will be about 2mm and the maximum deviation in render thickness will be about 1mm.