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OwenF

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  1. @Mike May I ask where you sourced the Tridonic led modules & drivers? I’ve been through the ‘configurator’ on their website but cannot find anyone stocking the full SLA DC range of modules..
  2. There is a view towards ‘de-neutralising’ black I.e. making black = earth and grey = neutral. I don’t think it’s in the regs anywhere but probably one of those things people pick up as though it were.
  3. Yea counterbattens isn’t an option due to needing to maintain floor height I’d like to replace all old joists but I think 35week pregnant significant other might kill me I’m liking that two people have suggested shim/packing (albeit different approaches). General wisdom seems to be in favour of sistering over packing, but I’m wondering if plywood shims might be enough to take out the worst (as @Iceverge says) without serious compromise to integrity.
  4. Well…I’ve actually put new joists in half the room, but unfortunately had to work my way across new to old. Everything right of that strip of P5 is new joists. I’ve reached the left-hand extent of the white membrane. Only after moving everything across and ripping last bit of floor (on left out of shot) have I discovered the issue. at this stage, new joists would be undoing a fair bit of work but seems like I’m in for it either way
  5. FWIW I was swinging between PIV, PIV&MEV or just MEV. I’m now settled on just MEV (probably centralised - Vent Axia multivent) for wet rooms. Plus a ‘dumb’ extract for hob. I like the idea of humidity controlled trickle inlets but 1) they are difficult to source, especially not in window vent form, 2) my house is not airtight (only partial downstairs with good levels of airtightness) Therefore I’m going to bank on enough background intake and the MEV controlling low-rate/boosted extract based on humidity
  6. Insulating existing suspended (ground) floor. Have exposed joists and measured approx. 15mm differential across 7m room (parallel to joist direction). Also have ~10mm fall along the joists but TBH they’re up & down where going over dwarf wall/ mid span etc. Decided I will have to sister new timbers to get a level subfloor for tiles. However existing joists are 2x4” at 400 c-c. If I sister with 47x95mm there’s barely any room for insulation/increased thermal bridge. Another option I’m pursuing is to use 25x50mm battens either side of the joist à la sketch below. Plan to fit battens AFTER wrapping joists with breather membrane in ‘up and over’ fashion. AT/VCL places over top prior to 22mm chipboard. I’m convinced this should be capable of taking floor loads provided suitable fixings….but is this doomed to fail?
  7. I’ve used this with threaded bar to attach ledger boards. The part fixing the timber to the masonry is just a nut and washer. Do you have that? Surely just un-tighten. hopefully someone hasn’t resin fixed an actual bolt through the timber….
  8. I got pipe and fittings from same shop (PSWtradesuppliers) but have no idea if they’re same brand. Fittings appear unbranded. Had to go direct to Multipipe for 12mm to 15mm copper adaptors - only place to stock them. as @joe90 says above, the real benefit of MLCP (or plastic) is minimum or zero intermediate fittings. Mine are uninterrupted lengths of pipe between manifold and rad (or manifold to copper in case of taps)
  9. I’m currently using a combination of 12mm and 16mm MLCP in a retrofit scenario. 16mm to cold outlets (from manifold) 16mm for rad flow/return (manifold) 12mm for DHW & DRC so far seems robust and does indeed have little ‘memory’ so holds a shape. HOWEVER I mistakenly thought it would pull through conduit. More than one sharp 90 and no chance. I’ve actually kinked it twice trying to thread a big loop so give yourself lots of working space to ‘lay it’. I’ve spent about £150 in fittings which covers approx: 10x 12mm to 3/4 euro ones 10x 12mm to 15mm copper adaptor 30x(ish) 16mm to 3/4 eurocones 40x(ish) 16mm to 15mm copper adaptor 100m of 16mm and 80m of 12mm cost <£100. A steal compared to JG or Hep. Though despite measuring and thinking I’ll do the whole house with 100m, three rads have eaten the whole reel. can see me using another 200m on top easy!
  10. Yes Andrew Millward (whilst a bit persistent with his views) does appear very knowledgable on hydraulic design. The above video explains better than I can but there seems to be plenty empirical evidence that CCTs at the mixer starves UFH of flow. Heat Geek disagrees but does acknowledge a gate valve somewhere nearby (can’t remember exactly where) is necessary to ensure the UFH circuit gets required flow. I converted my previous Viessmann 100 to priority hot water by wiring a 3 port valve in reverse as an external diverter valve. TBF the boiler did have PDHW function (I.e. different flow temps) but only using the internal diverter valve with a 4-pipe setup. I didn’t want to run new pipes so took the LV link for PDHW from the boiler to a relay which gave 240v to power the reversed 3-port valve over to the cylinder only. Have the schematic somewhere but recall linking wires makes the 3-port normally open to heating only. it’s a neat retrofit (not my idea) and sounds like your Baxi might have a similar output for the ‘boost’ mode. You just need something to trigger the relay.
  11. 1) if you introduce hydraulic separation, you’ll need the UFH/mixer pump in addition to the boiler pump. they might be fighting against each other now, but not once separated. 2) CCTs at the mixer are a no-no. This creates a bypass. CCTs or other separation is done at the boiler look up ‘Heating system design’ group on Facebook. Very good resource for the type of system design you’re looking at.
  12. I’m currently installing breather membrane for wool insulated suspended floor. I’m using the ‘up and over’ method (only 150mm gap beneath joists) and I can tell you- THAT is a pain in the arse. Especially around the noggins I’d say if you have access from below, then do it. Will be loads easier. Staple up, tape joins, done
  13. I’m in a similar position My current plan is to have one of these remote (in loft space above the kitchen) venting out via tile vent. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SLTD250SILENT.html Rigid ducted down to a small plenum within some boxing with an egg crate grill eg. https://www.justfans.co.uk/kitchen-extract-grille-with-grease-filter-450-150-cef-p-1454.html Must admit I’m sceptical about the look of it (possibly very industrial) but the Luxair or Elica range coming in around £1000 with limited remote fan options (or at extra £££) is equally unappealing Variation on the above might be buying a cheap, nice looking, hood extractor then gouging the internals and grill out to retrofit a remote fan.
  14. I extended the 90 up so the ‘nut’ of the 40mm adaptor sits just above structural floor level (chipboard). This will be below a base unit, which won’t get tiled so theoretically I could get to the 110mm opening with a minor floor cut. at worst I can rod direct at the adaptor
  15. This. I’ve just done the same for my utility (going to be taking sink, washing machine, condensate and tundish) However, this has got me wondering if the back entry gulley forms an effective trap. The invert of incoming/outgoing is above the reservoir. I guess the little bottle insert must do the ‘trapping’
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