Marvin

I am yet to build our acoustic silencer. We don't notice the MVHR on normal but do on boost. More is the cross room sound from the TV or people talking, so I'm think more on the lines of baffles at the ceiling terminals. Has anyone tried that?

Yes has to be less than 2 years old when applying for RHI.

Impressed with the determination! What an education you have received! Thanks for sharing your hard earned knowledge.

I understood, for efficency, the shorter distance between the outside ASHP and the inside buffer tank was the important thing.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-58959045

TracpipeCC allows the pipe to be run through unvented areas as long as the ends are out of the unvented areas. Now we only have to check the positions of any lintels before finishing the design. Thanks PeterW.

Yes I saw this product but was not sure what they were saying about the outer shell. Thanks.

When discussing the future kitchen design with brother-in-law the route of the gas main came up. Impossible to route gas pipe from main to boiler/cooker unless going through ceiling void or floor void. Can this be done?

Yes, checked our induction hob instructions and the same, so extending the gap between the wall units not a problem but keep an eye on the extractor instructions.

Manufacturers installation instruction may require more than building regulations. I always try to find a copy of the installation instructions before buying to ensure what ever I think I can do, I can, with what I want to buy. Too many times the manufacture installation instructions have "special" requirements which must be adhered to.

Hi. I wondered if you were in a hard water area.

Turn thermostat up. Maybe effected by other heat source. Mine was wifi box.

Yes, but small mark with the marker pen as the mark can come through the paint later which is fine if the mark is right but....

No internal damp and not newly decorated sounds a good thing. Could be pointed over edge of DPC. I have seen this a few times. Path sunk a bit. Any of the rest of the paths the same. Anything to suggest this happens recently or just old history. Note path sunk and wall worry near downpipe.... Buying to live in ok. Buying to do up and sell DPC may need to be verified/installed. Good luck. M

Didn't realise you required a licence to abstract heat from your water on your property, assuming a closed loop ground source heat pump system!

So no DPC? Well that's a problem in itself. Paying cash or needing a mortgage thereby a survey thereby the identification of no DPC?

You should be used to stupid rules.. These however are based on probability. The probability that older people will be less able to bend down or reach up and the probability that people will become older.

My brother says it's not if but how much.

Yes. The nearer the output temp to the outside air temprature the more efficient

We are working with the Air to Water ASHP through the rads and installing coils in the existing MVHR to compensate for not enlarging the radiators.

Silly question time: Do I assume correctly that the ASHP air to air will not produce a way to heat your hot water?

I think your original question mixes two questions: How much energy is required to heat the building? How much heat will the underfloor heating produce? With reference to the latter the design of the pipe layout and the water temprature will fairly much dictate the result. Ignoring different water tempratures: the more pipe in the room the more heat produced, but as previously commented the floor construction and floor finishes are also other factors. Others here will know better how to deal with this. M

Calculating heating requirement: There are so many variables to this conundrum IMHO even the most detailed analysis would only be able to give an approximate answer. It reminds me of the question how many miles per gallon can my car do? But, back to the building. Assuming you calculate exactly all the dimensions, and materials used in the building there are several other contributing factors for example: What part of the country the property is in, what rotation it is ( facing north?) How high up, in a valley, close to other properties, shaded by trees, the standard of the construction, the maximum calculated internal heat required, the maximum external temprature assumed, how the occupants use the property, MVHR? solar gain? ( My home solar gain at some points in summer can produce more heat at those moments than required to heat the building at minus -8C in the depth of winter), The equipment in the house, (I have now added the trickle power use of my home contents into the heating. This includes fridges, freezers, TVs, Internet,) how many occupants, the list is endless... But back to basics. I think there is a list of significant items and the rest is a judgement call. I worked on the following and added 25% to the total because I did not want to be cold and I did not want the boiler (as it was when doing the calculation) to be running flat out in the dead of winter. What I did was found out the thermal resistance of all the building elements. Worked out how hot I wanted the building in winter. Looked up the coldest recorded temprature where I live and made the assumed cold another 5 degrees lower. These 3 give you the thermal envelope resistance of the building and the difference between the maximum cold outside and the warmth required inside. From these you can calculate the building heat requirement The next thing was calculating the heat lost due to air replacement in the building. We have a MVHR unit. I know the air flow and the assumed heat loss, so added this result to the heating requirement. Now we have a figure! Unless the tool you are using to calculate the heat required uses info like your location it will only give you a CYA answer, so it will assume the worst situation and calculate using that. This is one of the reasons why you keep getting different answers. Good luck. Marvin.

I see your trying to find out the heat loss in a room. I looked at the heat calculator your using. Your trying to find how much heat you need for your building! Use 50. Put in dimensions. The result will give you the heat required for the room watts or BTUs add up all the results of the rooms and there's your answer. The heat will be roughly the same using UFH or rads

Water running through pipes in UFH is a lower temprature than for radiators so the surface of the pipe is cooler and produces less heat as the same amount of surface as a radiator. In order to achieve the same heat lots of pipe is run in the screed. Small radiator hot = lots of pipe cooler.