Marvin

The screed takes longer to heat up than the other floors. IMHO I would aim to keep screed floors at a more or less constant temperature. Others will tell you of their response time of their UFH. The thermal reflective properties of the upper floor extruded boards will mean the heat will be felt quicker. The finish above the screed/ boards also affects the response result. This is in 2 ways: slower to heat up = slower to cool down. Yes the page you refer to lists the disadvantages as above.

UFH temp anywhere between 35 and 50 degrees C and floor temp 18C? Say floor 20C. so Delta-T 15 to 30

Yes, and a lower figure being between the temprature of the screed concrete around the pipes and the temprature of the water in the pipes.

Some of the panels are covered in 40% guano!

For some reason the PV is not producing much power today.

I think other people have info on using uf systems for cooling. I like the idea of cooling the air because of its immediate effect, espically as we have solar gain which moves about.

In our bungalow we recently installed the air to water ASHP. We were told that it will produce cooling down to 7C and that if we put it through the radiators at a temperature below 18C it would cause condensation on the rads. Manufacturer was right. Using worst case scenario: Now we are working on installing water coils in the MVHR ducts. This is not so easy as you might think! Running 7C water through a 45C loft can cause condensation along the pipes supplying the water let alone the outside of the air ducts. The exhaust air from the rooms would be about 21C passing again through the 45C loft could cause condensation on the outside of the duct. Yes we have the 20mm Domus insulation but by my calculations this is not enough.

You can always tell what is in a big businesses best interest, even if you can't see how... I am waiting for a simple yes or no to a simple answer and have been told it will take 3 months.

Surely a personometer or a theyometer or an itometer?

I also usually install a PRV - pressure reducing valve - on an incoming water main for the same reason. Mains water pressure fluctuates, and is usually higher than required in the home, putting unnecessary stress on every tap and valve connected if one is not fitted.

+1 and less stress on the whole system is a good idea.

So the short answer is it depends what power you require for the property. For any of the more savvy BH members you would need to share more info to obtain a valid opinion. My ASHP is max 16amp supply and replaces the night storage heaters of about 50amps so I have single phase supply. Good luck. Marvin Oh and you could always ask plumber why the thought of 3 phase came up.

I think not so crazy SteamyTea already has...

So many questions to ask... So UFH on the ground floor. Anything up stairs? You would expect no flow but your system has a bypass valve the black tubey thing with the numbers on it between 0.1 and 0 5. When the pressure reaches above the set level indicated the valve lets the water bypass the UFH system avoiding over pressuring the pump. I see 3 white boxes ( these are 2 port valves) which implies to me 1 system for hot water tank, 1 for UFH and I guess 1 for other heating? What's the name and model of your ASHP? This will help others answer better. Good luck. Marvin. P.s. like the wellies.

security lights? movement sensors smoke detectors and so on

A classic case of A=A But air tightness is another factor....

You may still have to move the doorstop in the end. My guess is the new doors are thicker than the old ones.

I'm trying to workout how anyones life is meaningful. In the end your born, you live, you die. In the gap between birth and death you do something. What's wrong with toy trains? It's as meaningful as being a barrister, having children, building massive status filled houses or doing nothing.

Apparently the same as Diall insulation roll from B&Q.

Has anyone used Supasoft loft insulation, and if so what did you think of it?

Small home. Misses not impressed with battery one. I want to live.

and easier to do later electrical alterations when some numpty forgets to put a socket in the hallway for the vacuum!

??? My timber framed bungalow was built in the early 1970s, so 50 years old. When we stripped it back to the bare timber frame a couple of years ago, only one piece of timber was replaced due to any problem and that was the the floor joist under the back door threshold that was never protected except for a coat of paint.

Seal tiles all over before laying. Make sure tiles dry before doing this!

What size spacers for the grout are you going to use?