Marvin

I checked this with the NHS and they advise not to wear high heels if you have this problem...

Installed my own MVHR with rigid ducting. No machine sounds / wind blowing down a pipe sounds on normal flow. A low amount of air noise at boost level. Noise transfer from room to room will be sorted with baffles . Very happy with system. 100m2 floor. Presently running on a meter test plug at 7.2 Watts/h average over 10 days. MVHR box in loft above main bedroom but you wouldn't know! Purchased a 250m2 unit so running at a low speed...

If the buffer tank is to increase the volume of the water in the system, why is the hot from the ASHP going directly into the buffer tank instead of directly to the heat emitters (ours are radiators) before the temperature drops? Why not return the cooler water in to the buffer tank and draw off for the ASHP?

Hi @dpmiller Thank you for your kind response. We have a 60 litre buffer tank. and about 85 litres in the pipework and radiators. Having little knowledge, I assume iVT means inverter, which we have. IIRC I had to look up ? So do I ignore the temperature drop between the inlet and out let from each radiator because the temp drop will happen in the buffer tank? But would that not mean losing high temperature heat unnecessarily through the flow return pipes? Should not the water temperature in the buffer tank slowly reduce until the ASHP kicks in? I notice that the sensor for the Heating water is in the buffer tank? All opinions greatly appreciated.

When balancing my radiators using water from the ASHP, set at 40C, what temperature difference should I expect across the radiator when aiming for a room temperature of 21C? Is 11 degrees too much?

What are the room dimensions? Have taken tge drain cover up to have a look? If so what's there?

Another problem I'm yet to solve!

Well I don't know the design of your home, but it is called the thermal envelope so any way the heat can transfer out of your building will need to be insulated. All 6 surfaces of a cube...

+1 I was really thinking of high ceilings as they require much more heat above your head to achieve the lower room temprature.

Somewhere on the list should be reducing wasted space and avoiding vaulted ceilings.

A: No problem. B: this will be a learning curve for us as well ? Yes. I have applied because we have gone from zero to5.12kW and will use a CT Clamp to limit the supply. It took about half a dozen people to decide who should look at the request and finally I was advised that they hope to let me know within 3 months! So we sit here in limbo....

We don't expect to get free energy for transport and agree that the situation suits our requirements, and will not suit everybody's. As the EV spends most of the time at home, and not all day at work, it will work as a storage battery with a capacity of about 40kW (Batteries about 100kW max use about 40kW). Also we are only doing an average of about 20 miles a day so 4kW. The idea is to dilute the mains power with EV, not feed it directly. Once up and running I will set the ST Clamp on the 5.12kW PV system to charge the car once the PV is producing over 1.5 kW (We have a 3kW slow charger.) I'm never quite sure with these cunning plans I have and we will just have to wait and see what happens. M

There may be some confusion @MikeSharp01. The picture shows the journeys over about 2 or 3 months, and my point was that I am achieving an average of almost 5 miles for every kW over many many journeys. At the new price of 25p per kW now, that's about 5p a mile. My petrol work car does abou 40 to the gallon so £ 1.5 x 4.545 litres is about 6.81, divided by 40 miles is about 17p a mile. With PV as well I will see how far I can get this down....

One of the reasons we are having PV fitted:

Welcome. Good info always about on here... Marvin

and another You need to consider the possibility of condensation being produced if the ducts/pipe run through the loft when cooling..

Lets hope he does not read Buildhub...

Yes... and now.. with think it was a filler....

Just a thought.... You need to consider what will protect the ASHP from freezing and add antifreeze to the water... Good luck Marvin

Any one who doesn't know what is wrong with this picture needs to learn some basics.

The existing loft insulation irritated the .... out of me. Mainly because I needed to change a lot of pipes in the loft and the roof is only 22.5 degrees and the fluffy was very thick. What with the 150mm insulated MVHR pipes (190mm thick) 2 high and a roof at 1300 ish it was too cramped. Anyone looking at the ducting photos will see the loft was bare. Before insulating, the bungalow was loosing 87% of the heat through the roof because the rest is so well insulated. Gonna have to turn the ASHP down a bit .. Now started replacing with this stuff.

The existing loft insulation irritated the .... out of me. Mainly because I needed to change a lot of pipes in the loft and the roof is only 22.5 degrees and the fluffy was very thick. What with the 150mm insulated MVHR pipes (190mm thick) 2 high and a roof at 1300 ish it was too cramped. Anyone looking at the ducting photos will see the loft was bare. Before insulating, the bungalow was loosing 87% of the heat through the roof because the rest is so well insulated. Gonna have to turn the ASHP down a bit .. Now started replacing with this stuff.

Might be a bit of a challenge as usually the cover goes down over the plug and cable to give it water protection. If the face of the cover was flush how would the cable come out?

Yes @Nickw1982 the external stone is a great shame and needs sorting but not before altering the distance between the inlet and outlet.

It not about being perfect - unless your anal. It's about practical and skill.