saveasteading

I have once or twice had cables supplied with apparatus, that only charges, or only connects data. They weren't marked as such. So either they were wired that way, or faulty.

Frost doesn't really go lower than about 400mm in UK except in exceptional locations. Even then, it would be very short term and the water has a reasonably high temperature unless coming out of a snowy hillside. No, it needs no insulation, and certainly not rockwool which would get wet and horrible.

Thoughts, not gospel: I think the trickiest thing is the practicality of fitting cables and insulation, as one will get in the way of the other. Cables tight to joists may be the answer. Then fixing the lights through, they will have to push aside the insulation, and it will be a hot little area that might cause the lights to fail. In theory, fit all the insulation you can, with something that will stay in place before you fit the ceiling. No need for any gaps that I can think of. For all that LED lights are low power, it still seems best and simplest to not have a polystyrene layer in contact with them. There will be a cold bridge through every joist though. Or fit a membrane under the joists, then a secondary grid of timbers to create a void that the cables and lights can sit in. There you are, more questions than answers.

The four diy ones and 3 apps I have tried have all been rubbish. This magnet idea sounds good, but won't work for cables.

I took the working motor out a broken Aldi strimmer yesterday, because I could. Should I drop it in? Could power a set of fairy lights, and your burn would look magical at night. It would be fun though. It seems that a motor to create electricity is not well suited to small-scale water power because of the speed (lots of gearing needed). Yet water mills work well. I assume this is a torque thing, and I never really understood torque.

Either this is nonsense or I have to worry about 50,000m2 of reinforced slab built without earthing, and the nation must have millions of m2. Even where a cautious client has insisted on lightning conduction, this has not been linked to the floor reinforcement. The only reason for doing this would be to complete a faraday cage. There is a nice business in lightning conduction. If you ask a lightning consultant they 100% tell you to get them to install a conductor system, which they can do for you. If you don't ask, then seldom will anybody else ask for it. (this does not apply to nuclear power stations and hospitals, where extra caution is sensible) After thorough research I am still to find any example of death by lightning from a steel building or from reinforced concrete. If it does worry you , why not just bang a steel rod (no need for copper) into the ground and tie it to the mesh? This is increasing the ease of lightning rising through your building though, so I wouldn't.

Wes they will grow up anything. When small they sometimes need small canes or twigs or string to grab hold of. When bigger they wind around anything and also cling together. Conduits, threaded rod, reinforcing bar are all good, especially as they need to be well into the ground for stability. then wind some horizontals in, using cane or sticks. If you have a line of beans they act like a sail, so guy ropes may be advisable too. Meanwhile have you planted any beans in pots, so that they are ready to be planted in their new bed.?

Why not now? Then I can answer to say I think it would be good fun, but not efficient or much use to you. (payback 50 years?)

In approximate terms , and in principle, I would go for all trench fill up to 2.4m , or mini-piles if deeper. The trenches all go to different depths according to the tree effect, ie could be 2 to 3m if near an oak tree, getting less deep and eventually to no extra depth if distant from an oak or near a conifer. I have designed for such circumstances many times, without any problems. Logically then, it wouldn't be a problem shifting from piles to trench footing. This is what Engineers understand and do, although the cost side of things isn't necessarily a universal skill. But if you tell them the cost effect then they will try to help.

So that toilet on the right, take two runs straight out of the building, one in 50mm and the other in 110mm. and do connections/rodding points outside Then there are no nasty junctions in the building...and no gurgles. Thanks team.

Hawthorns and conifers are not a big problem, and piling seems excessive. It depends enormously on the size and type of trees, and their distance. Mostly on trees remaining but also of those removed. Any more info?

If instead they were made with non-asbestos fibres, then that is also an issue, as they haven't generally lasted as well as the asbestos ones. When handling it, wet it first as it is the dry asbestos fibres that are dangerous. Then put it in a strong plastic bag and tie it, then repeat with another bag. There is no requirement to replace asbestos cement tiles, but it will have to be done at some stage so will affect the price at every sale.

My fault. Do I try to connect all the pipes from one (or even 2) en-suites into a single run out of the building? Or do I avoid complex connections under the floor and get the stuff outside using more pipes and access points?

We are into action soon....well, apart from another 3 points from the BCO. That make 53, although some were linked. So I am scheduling drainage pipes and realising I don't know everything. Outdoor drainage is fine: my thing. But from appliances to the drain I am not sure what we can, and should, connect within the room (under the floor). 1. rules. 2 best practice The indoor drain pipes are indicated in orange on the attached. Elsewhere we will have the encumbrance of tunnelling under thick masonry walls, but in the area shown it is all new construction (starting very soon) of traditional footings and timber superstructure.. Therefore we can put additional pipes in if that seems more sensible. BUT the big issue is that we will have a prop for the ridge beam midway in each cross-wall. Best then to keep pipes away from the wall, but we could feasibly extend the post to keep the foundation below the pipe zone. Any suggestions welcomed. Question 2. When I have put in drains in the past, I always assume that the accuracy of a rising pipe will not be sufficient when the appliances are fitted (wc standing off the wall for example). Plus the risk of the groundworker kicking the pipes. Therefore my habit is to put a small shutter round each pipe riser before the slab is poured, then fill with sand in the short term. Once the concrete is in place we have more control and can mark exact wall positions, tweak the pipes and concrete them in. The groundworker doesn't agree and says the pipes can be positioned exactly. Am I being too fussy or is it that a groundworker doesn't see the problems later on?

I can't see any stated difference in specifications between 'radon' sheeting and other 1200guage polythene, other than certification. Perhaps some dpm has inconsistent thickness or density, or perhaps the budget suppliers simply don't apply for the expensive test. Also I have seen specifications stating ....'lay 1200 gauge polythene dpm as radon protection'....not that the designer stating this necessarily knows. We are fortunate in being just outside a radon area, and the certificate (£5 well spent) confirms this, but I did read up just in case. The big problem would have been linking this barrier to the outdoors, when there is 600mm of existing masonry without any dpc. Could be done by venting but very glad we don't have to. I have done methane protection on big buildings (one on top of a tip) which is much the same. Not complicated to vent it, and at 1/3 of the cost of a specialist....(who use pipes and polythene with 'methane' written on them). I am not making light of the radon danger. Methane on the other hand seems to be a worry about something that has never yet happened, but could, an could be dramatic.

Isn't all our power solar? Coal, gas and oil are very old solar power, and direct sunlight is the latest. Wind, water, timber are in-between.

The yellow smiley face?

If you have a prescribed ridge height in m above ordnance datum then that is serious and provable. If a height above ground then you will have some leeway. 100mm up will save 100mm down, and surely not trouble the authorities.....although they might be reading this.

Don.t ever drop red wine/jam on it. OR apply lots of sealer and top it up regularly. Also, depending on location, some concrete always has lignite in it (fossilised wood in the gravel) and it floats to the surface. Not good in an industrial slab, but awful in domestic.

There may be a lanyard attached so that you can hook it onto a beam/scaffold in case the power fails. More to protect the machine and those below than the operator. It is not uncommon for the power to be switched off by the operator, oops, or someone below.

Agreed. you need permission from the council, but you shouldn't need traffic lights, and don't need to cut and rebuild the road using an approved contractor. It is a surprisingly primitive process, and often by small business (man with a van and trailer). Dig a hole each side, push a pipe through with a jack until it pops out. Somehow leave a duct behind (I assume this is easy and standard).

A very good point. I have had this argument with planners (fortunately in principle, in a discussion group, not about my own projects). They really don't get it, and what they mean is 'to fit in with old buildings around the area'. In the case that bothered me, a developer had stuck bits of timber on new blockwork to resemble Elizabethan houses. It should mean, using whatever is the most efficient way based on currently available materials. But that is not what they want. On the other hand, many councils state that they want 'vernacular' OR exemplary modern design, so worth checking the design statements in the local plan.

No expert, but I don't think NHBC covers this. It should but doesn't. It will be a claim on workmanship, if you can show that it is faulty. It is likely that the builder will deny or play for time..they (especially some major developers) are used to fobbing off inferior works. Definitely the time to be a nuisance at sales, as who wants that discussion going on? Also if your house is faulty other are likely to be too., as the same work gangs move round trade by trade. So knock on every door. I also suggest you get witnesses now, and some with building knowledge if possible. And you must put it in writing , much as described to us, to the builder, and any other party involved in the sale.

Why not build higher? Better view/ better drainage.

No. All the above advice agreed. Weed membrane is a plastic sheet that will be in the ground forever. its purpose is for deiveways where nothing should grow, or for the lkes of rockeries where you can cut odd holes for plants. Carboard will do the same and then rot away as compost. OR I think it is normal to rotovate the ground, so some roots will be killed off, then most weeds will be kept down by mowing, and some need spot weedkiller or patient weeding.