saveasteading

This needs a new discussion, and probably on a different forum.

That would be a huge textbook. Can you simplify the question? Or the very simple answer is 'roads'.

I think you should be the one to try this out. Rent a single sheep, then there are only the insects to worry about. You will have to keep it entertained though.

My stoves have sliding openings at the bottom front, into the ash pan. No fancy sliders or pivots, just air in at the hole in the front. This then comes up through the grille unless covered in ash, and round the back of the fire bricks and out of numerous holes into the fire box. Works fine as long as the ash pan is not full. Wood needs to sit on ash (or a solid bottom) but mine seems to work when air comes from under just as well. I noticed that some modern fires don't have ash pans, yet some do.

I concede. Lettuce seeds would germinate on the back of a wet sheep. If the sheep remains wet for 3 weeks then there might be edible lettuces, and an interesting root system in the fleece. And no slugs. A useful by-product for the farmer, provided that other sheep, caterpillars or greenfly don't eat the lettuce first.

But not your personal or project details unless you are happy for the whole world to know. This discussion is findable in a web search, say using the address. As Jack says, please explain the parties. It would be normal for the District or Borough council to be the planning authority. It usually only goes to formal committee if there are objections. objections could be from persons or the Parish Council or the County council. if you could clarify then this will help a lot.

Agreed that this appears to happen, but I can't explain the reason. Once the sunlight has entered the room, the energy is inside the room. An internal blind will reflect some light back out again, but most is in and stays in. Also perhaps the heat builds up between the window and internal blind, and some dissipates out again through the glass. I think perhaps we just notice that the direct sun is not heating us or surfaces, but the heat is in the room and spreading slowly from the window area.

That being the air that comes out of nozzles in the fire bricks and burns the fumes? Are there any rules on that? I am thinking that if any air can get in other than through the duct, then that might become the primary source if the pressures allow.

Not in UK but in Spain where they are a standard product. They work really well at keeping the sun out, as internal blinds have already let the sun in to the room, and are much less efficient. It works to some extent on wind (and therefore cold) too. Curtains then complete the scenario. But these blinds (persianas) are quite primitive and there are draughts through the roller into the room. I have fitted external shutters in UK commercial situation, and they are much better, but it is fairly complex. In summary, yes they work well but check the construction detail and cost before committing..

Why do you need one?

It sounds like a possibility but I don't think so. The theory of stack ventilation should apply here, as well as 'hot air rises'. To burn back down the intake, the flames would have to go down through the grate which seems unlikely (have you noticed that under a bonfire there can still be some unburnt material, protected by the ash? Plus the wind across a flue causes upward movement of air, so in the summer this will act as a permanent air flow. Yes, I get smoke and even some flame coming out of the door when ours is just lit, so that is working in reverse, but when burning well it all goes up. And even if all that theory was wrong, and there was occasional backfiring, it is an aluminium pipe, several metres long.....no harm will be done. I showed a pvc drain-pipe at the wall because this can go in early and not get damaged. we don't have the possibility of going through the wall as it is 600 th granite. I haven't given any thought to doing it through a nice easy timber wall.

My favourite joinery product. To excite (planks) by exposing something desirable that remains or is made difficult or impossible to obtain. I have just instructed spellcheck on here to add tanalise to the dictionary and it seems to have worked. I think you are right re the air resistance if the outlet is pointing at the fence, but it would be ok if the outlet was upwards. The reason for the planks being on opposite sides is that this alters the frequency of the noise, so it dissipates, but allows most air through, including wind. Your version will prob do both to sufficient extent. It conceals the ugly box too.

I use maybe the small container in 2 years , where there is a big problem and only in an enclosed area where hedgehogs etc will not visit. eg in the closed greenhouse. trying to use none at all.

Log burners: Building inspector has asked for more detail, so for anyone who doesn't know, as I have just learnt.... As earlier discussion, the air intake is needed and mandatory for a modern (airtight) house. It can be an inlet placed near the stove, but I have gone off that idea, as most stoves now seem to have rear inlets for direct air. A 5kW burner needs a 60mm piped supply. There is no mention of length of pipe, and any friction losses along the way. The manufacturers seem to only provide an adaptor to the back, where I had expected an optional kit for appearances and strength. The utilitarian spiral bendy pipe seems to be the standard solution but will look horrible behind the stove, and I wonder about cleaning damage. I have come up with a solution for our circumstances. The feed needs to be brought in early so have allowed for pvc drain solution under the wall, and then the slinky pipe can go in, just in time. Needs something better at the back of the stove but this will do for now. Not a pvc pipe obviously, but perhaps keep our eyes open for something sturdy to replace or enclose it. For example if KeeKlamp made 60mm or greater id (their biggest is 60od). My sketch is attached.....I am no draughtsman. Not looking for comments although they are welcome of course. This is simply for the greater good.

Does it have acoustic bearings/pads? It could otherwise set up a hum through the joists. How far away? I would hazard that it depends on whether the expelled cold air is horizontal or vertical, as it needs to be got rid of, but fresh air can come from all around. My thought on the fence construction is to use horizontal planks, hit and miss on opposite sides, as this is the basis of some motorway acoustic fencing.

I like to plant 2 or 3 bean types.. runner, french, and yellow french because they come at different times, and the yellow ones are easy to find. Also plant a traditional sweet pea in among them as it attracts the pollinating insects much better, then they do your beans as well.

Yes you could not. You know the theory that there is no such thing as a bad suggestion? Still applies. If you are onto something here, you can keep the credit.

I have heard some very noisy ones , but I don't think they were thoughtfully installed. They are clearly becoming quieter too. Although it is essential to have lots of free air around the heat pump, if there is plenty of room, a fence could be built around it that combines free air flow with acoustic dampening. Hedges too? I would think so.

I like that.

I will try that dough idea. otherwise I have to stick with the sacrificial lettuce plan. the slugs come out at night and crawl all over the lettuce, in full view, including tiny ones, and they are easy to remove by torchlight. after a week there are few left...for a while. I read that slugs will not crawl (?) over sheeps' wool due to barbs in the surface. this was in an advert for expensive wool pellets. As a whole fleece sells for about £3 it would be handy if farmers could provide the garden market and perhaps get more. Also, the principle of intermingling the veg and flowers (not all carrots in one spot etc) works quite well, and marigolds/ citronella/ herbs can disguise the scents that pests home in on.

Yes, I think so. discuss what you might want to do 1/2 hour get the file out and review. 1/2 hour discuss with you or architect, then personal review after the meeting, 1 hour admin re agreeing what to do and the cost 1 hour hour do the new design 2 hours draw the new proposal, check, sign off, 2 hours admin in sending 1/2 hour admin in invoicing 1/2 hour allow for interim discussions 1/2 hour that comes to 8.5. If it is a bigger practice then some of that is done by admin/draughtsperson

Reverberation can be a problem when the surfaces are hard (it doesn't matter much what is behind). It becomes more of a nuisance when hard surfaces are parallel, and worst when all the 6 faces are parallel to the opposites. Furniture and other furnishings help a lot, eg curtains, pictures., carpets. Sound through walls, floors and ceilings is another matter altogether.

you don't mention build quality, actual airtightness instead of 'assessed' and the confidence that there are no nasty surprises that may emerge in a few years

Pinching or retaining land is inbuilt in our psyche. They are unlikely to have proof of when they moved the fence. and if they did this by stealth behind hedges etc it might not stand up to dispute. There are nearly always some remnants of the original boundary that can show it is actually still there. eg they may have put a bit of fence up to keep a child or dog in, but the boundary is still marked. well done though. must have been worrying. I have had council people say we had pinched a few metres of acpublic right of way.....we hadn't. When I asked them to prove it they couldn't, and didn't even know where to start measuring from....maps and plans are very approximate. The red line on your deeds probably scales 500mm

It doesn't cost a lot if you shop around. I can't see how they can make money hiring it and emptying it once a week for £20, but it saves mess on your site. It also stops them disappearing for half hours, and 'having to' have breakfast when out to use the cafe loo. So the job will go faster. I used to argue against but am converted.....and prices have come down. If the site allows, you can sometimes get the waste to drop into a drain, and save them emptying, but you will have to clean it...as the workers will not.