ProDave

Do you need to change anything? My present house and the new one under constructions were bought as building plots so "land". When I eventually sell the present house I will just let my solicitor take care of any changes needed at the time. But under the UK law, you don't buy a "house" you buy a oiece of land with whatever happens to be upon it at the time of sale, so I question is there actually any need to change anything?

The point is though, USB A is the default connector. There are then a myriad of different sized and flavours of usb socket on all your devices. you just use an adaptor lead to suit the device you are charging. The same would be true if your outlet was USB C.

Just got round to watching the latest one. 4 storey town house. Nearly all open plan. Stairs in the middle of the house, only one exit, the front door. Hardly any internal doors at all, let alone fire doors. The bedroom doors were Japanese style paper doors. How did that get passed?

But then it would have cost twice as much and you would have had to use iscrews to fix it to the wall. no other tyoe of screw would have been compatible.

Nasty. the disc and spindle could come detached during use. That might not be pretty. this shows why outsourcing manufacture to a cheaper foreign country (in this case Russia) is not always a smart move. I don't think my 30 year old grinder, that used to be my dad's will be affected.

I think you over estimate how much water is in a load of washing. In our previous house which was cold and poorly insulated (so condensation could be an issue) we dried the washing by shutting it in a cupboard on the pulley with a dehumidifier on. You would not get more than about half a litre of water per load of washing

This thread is interesting. If you are building an entire house frame from scratch yourself then I agree a good shop saw is what you want. But £500 or more? If however like most of us you paid a builder to do the big and heavy stuff and now just have a few stud walls to build and other bits and pieces, then I think I will stick with my £40 chop saw (CPC special offer about a year ago) It will cut a 6 by 2, and will do an 8 by 2 if you turn it over for a second cut. The main thing over any other type of saw is a nice clean and SQUARE cut.

This is probably the best argument for NOT fitting USB sockets at all, and just using plug in adaptors of whatever flavour is in use today.

Your door is more likely to be a standard size and easy for someone else to find a use for. NSS's windows are a bit unique and harder to find a use for unless you design something around the windows. P.S I note the ebay advert does not give the sizes.

A light above or beside each door is all I would have personally, and perhaps one or 2 along the side if it's a passageway. If you want to know the meaning of a slow building site, look at mine. It's over a year since i said farewell to my builders (amicably and only because I was running out of money so can't afford to pay labour) It's taken me all of that year to get the outside of my house and plot finished, and only now am I starting to work on the inside.

i think you are over thinking this. We routinely dry our washing on the "pulley" Contrary to popular belief this does not add a noticeable amount of moisture into the house, there is no condensation or mould anywhere. And I cant say it has any effect on the temperature of the small utility room that it is in. So just do it and don't worry. If you use a non condensing vented tumble dryer, you, like me, will cry at 3KW of heat going out of the house through a big hole in the wall. If you use a condensing dryer, it will use much the same amount of energy but most of that stays in the room so adds to the heating of the house. You might detect I am not a fan of tumble dryers. the sole purpose of ours is to make the towels and socks "fluffy" and experimentation has found for that you don't need to dry them in the TD, just partly dry them, then hang them on the pulley to finish off.

Hi and welcome to the forum. You are in good company here. 21 planning conditions sounds like hard work so just work through them one at a time. Sorry to hear about the digger and dumper problems. There are a few on here who bought their own plant (including me but I have now sold my digger as its work was done) who may be able to help.

My gut feeling says 2 inlet and 2 outlet vents in each room. i.e. twice as many as you said. I wouldn't put the vents in the wardrtobe but in the actual ceiling of the bedroom. Intake / outlet at least 1.5 metres apart. My Kingspan unit on it's slowest setting is almost inaudible even when right next to it and uses very low power on that setting, so I wold have no hesitation to use something like that. Summer bypass might help if you overheat with the stove.

In the other hand, if the posts are UNDER the shed, they are never going to get wet from rain. The concrete will protect them from water in the ground. so totally different to an exposed electricity pole. I know it's a totally different climate, but my BIL lives in a 100 year old "Queenslander" wooden house stood on telegraph pole size posts just buried in the ground.

Just a quick note to say I have just put an "end of year" post on my blog at the usual address http://www.willowburn.net Look for the entry "Finishing up the year" Nothing much, just the box profile roofing that has already been discussed here and some other finishing up bits and pieces, and a few new photo's That is the outside of the house just about finished, as far as it's going for some time anyway. I have also spent some time the last couple of days taking advantage if this short mild spell, to tidy up the plot somewhat. I have bagged up the remaining pile of sand in three one ton builders bags and stuff like that, but that's far too boring to be taking photographs of.

I know my neighbour used a non approved contractor to make his road crossing, but nobody complained and he got away with it. It was left for a week just filled in with hardcore before they came back and tarmaced it.

you still need the air gap maintained as that is the primary means of ventilating the roof above. Uses trays as suggested or uses solid insulation e.g kigspan, celotex etc.

What's the hand signal in picture 3 ?

SWMBO and I were discussing this. "I want a larger HW tank in the new house" "Why, this one never runs out of hot water" "You haven't seen the shower I want in the new house".......

Re the Electrific £10 voucher. You can NOT redeem it against a "click and collect" order. SWMBO is going into town tomorrow so I will get here to pick up some stuff and spend the voucher. I was going to do it as a click and collect but thankfully I had a read of the T&C on the back and it specifically excludes that.

Can I ask how that glass was fixed? i guess the glass was bolted or screwed to the structure, then "something white" was applied as a cladding over it with no visible fixings. It's the lack of visible fixings that give it the crispness, but my simple mind can only think of "glue" for something like that.

Why was that? Did you go to "the other side" first to get your cup of coffee, then take it to the peasants side? I so rarely go to the trade counter as it's so far from me, I almost always order on line. EDIT a few weeks back, SWMBO was going into town, so I gave her the "special card" so she could use the Trade counter. But she didn't bother with the free coffee.

Reading this thread just shows how awkward some planning departments are. I had a number of pre commencement conditions and these were just dealt with by email with my planning officer. No long delays, no fee, and no need to "submit" my solutions formally. At the end I got an email, followed up by a letter in the post saying the pre commencment conditions had been discharged. Oh so simple. I then had to notify them when I "started" the development. I queried what constitutes "starting" and it was simple. condition 1 of my PP said I must create the tarmac entrance from the road before any building begins, so when I started work on that entrance, I had "started" the development and had to notify them. It wasn't relevant to me as I was proceeding with the build immediately, but it would appear that just making the entrance and "starting" would have been enough to lock in the PP if I had intended a long delay before actually building.

Occupancy sensors are available, though not he most reliable technology in the world. But I don't know of any touch sensitive switches so I can't help you with that. Low level low power LED's to "light the way to the loo" aka aircraft emergency exit lighting on the floor?

"A percolation test hole 300mm x 300mm x 300mm deep should be excavated below the proposed invert level of the effluent distribution pipe. For most sewage treatment units this depth is from 700mm down to 1 metre, i.e the base of the percolation test hole below is 1 metre below ground. This usually requires a large hole to be dug to stand in whilst digging the small percolation test hole." As I thought, you only have to fill a 300mm cube hole = 27 litres of water.