ProDave

I have a proper donkey jacket somewhere in the garage, if the mice haven't eaten it. It might be worth something now then?

I tried a pipe cutter. all it did was deform the ends of the strands and push them into the inner sheath of the cable. the result was the ends of the strand sall curled over and near impossible to terminate. that's why the hacksaw or blade runner cuts them without pressure. (look at the inside of a copper pipe cut with a pipe cutter, it will be burred inwards to some extent)

But you get a LOT closer to it than buying an off the peg house.

Why make it complicated. Where you want to cut the armour, run round with a hacksaw through the sheath and part way through the armour. Cut the sheath off to that point. Snap the remainder of the armour off there, already weakened by being cut part way through. Strip sheath back a little more and fan out the armour strands as above. It really is not difficult. This method and using the blade runner as above result in all strands of the armour being exactly the same length, which is crucial to getting a good clamp in the gland.

yes this one. http://www.lidl.co.uk/en/our-offers-2491.htm?action=showDetail&id=41131&ar=11 It's like I said on another thread. £25 is about the cost of a cheap battery. the drill comes free. At that price when the battery croaks, get a complete new drill.

Offcuts of kiln dried wood burn well on my stove, and small offcuts of OSB make great kindling to get the fire going. On the subject of clean glass. It took me ages to work my stove out. It's a Dunsley Highlander 5 with an air wash system. But right from the start, no matter what I burned, the glass clouded up. I eventually realised, during a power cut I think when the stove was the only heating for 3 days. It ONLY keeps it's glass clear running at full tilt. As soon as you shut it down a bit (as we often do to avoid overheating) that's when the glass starts to soot up.

You all know I am a fan of a WBS, but there is a place for them and a place NOT for them. You can get away with them somewhere like here with such a low population density, and a tendancy for more wind to disperse the polution, but even I would say a city, or even a town, is not really the place for them. But the trouble is they are peddled as being "green" which I think is a load of hogwash, or even greenwash.

My fence here has been in 10 years, the posts still seem solid and no sign of rot. Perhaps being in wet ground helps? after all it's being wet then dry that allows them to rot.

I got one of those, and I could not resist the £25 cordless drill. A cute little thing and it seems to have quite a bit of torque, more of a lightweight screwdriver really, but it seems well built. I'll bet the tiny 2AH battery won't last long though.

I told you the answer would be obvious.

There is generally no legal need to update them, unless some polution event occurs. A house near here was ordered to replace his septic tank with a treatment plant. On a new build now you would be mad to even try to get away with a septic tank, we would never have been allowed to discharge to the burn with a ST. A shared treatment plant might be the logical solution here if your building control will accept it. You will obviously be installing one, so the extra cost to install a bigger one is probably not that much more

The wiring is the same, you loop from socket to socket, no need for junction boxes. Think of a ring final. Remove the link between the two furthest sockets and then connect the two ends in the CU into their own mcb's. The disadvantage of radial sockets is in general you will need twice as many of them so more mcb's and a bigger consumer unit. No problem in a new build but in a lot of existing houses there is simply no room to fit a bigger CU Converting a ring to two radials is often a handy trick to have when you find a damaged circuit leg and the distruption to the property needed to fix it, can make it a better option to scrap the damaged section and convert it to two radials.

But there are only 22 circuits, it would have been easy to get that down to 20 and use the same large domestic board as I have. e.g do you really need a dedicated circuit for a shaver socket? And I am going to regret asking this as I am sure the answer is obvious, but what's the yellow "loxone" label on half the circuits?

One of our neighbours does that. Buys a lorry load of logs and processes them. You won't be lifting 3 metre logs onto a saw horse. He just saws them into slices where they are on the stack with a chain saw. I don't know if he splits them with an electric splitter or by swinging a splitting maul. And you don't want or need to do them all at once. Personally I have never paid for firewood yet, but then there are more trees over this side, and a god winter gale always brings some down, or at least the beech trees drop some useful sized branches. When I do collect big trunks, I usually saw them into slices fairly soon and leave them as slices and split them later.

They have. SSE almost always install a meter with a built in isolator.

Hi and welcome to the forum. That sounds like a very interesting project.

My solution to all that, is back to wall pan's, concealed cistern boxed in, and inset basin on the top of the boxed in bit.

It's not insane, it's the rules. The TNC-S earth is there ready for you to use when the supply is feeding the house, no need to get the DNO back again. it's usually there accessible on the side of the cut out, though I am noticing more often than not they now fit an earth block next to the cut out. In the mean time while it's feeding a building site, just for the moment ignore their earth and connect to your own rod. In the case of a static caravan, that must remain on a TT earth.

^^ CL stands for "Certificated Location" In I think the 1960's when the Caravan Act was first passed (before that you could park a caravan and wild camp just about anywhere) it introduced licenced caravan sites. After representation from the Caravan Club, an exemption was added in the form of "certificated Locations" that allow up to 5 touring caravans at a time to use the site. It doesn't need planning permission but it must be approved by an approved organisation such as the Caravan Club or also the Camping & Caravan club.

That Hepvo unit is a "waterless trap" It allows something like an unvented HW tank blow off to be routed into a stack pipe (with certain strict conditions on what pipe to use). You cannot use a normal wet trap for that sort of application, as there is normally no water to keep the trap filled so it would evaporate and dry out. I will almost certainly be using one to avoid having to take the drain pipe outside.

I think this topic has strayed a long way from ASHP's. Can we bring the earthing discussion to a close please, or start a new thread to discuss that aspect. And play nicely please.

Re neutral faults on a concentric incomer. It is actually a well known fault condition. If the outer sheath of the concentric cable gets punctured, water can get in and corrode the outer (unsheathed) PEN conductors. Eventually it will give out and you have no neutral. Inside the EZ it is surprisingly not much danger, but an exported earth to say a shed can rise to a lethal potential wrt local earth Carvans are the big risk where the metal bodywork is usually connected to earth and if you fed one of those with an exported PME earth you could have a lethal situation as you step in or out of the 'van, that's why the regsdemand they are fed from a TT earth. Up here, the DNO's token gesture to make TNC-S a PME is a little pig tail of "earth" wire buried in the connection pit alongside the potted joint box.

+1 to dig a hole and postcrete a post into it. A half way house I often do, is dig a hole to part depth, then use a post with a pointed end and hammer the post in as far as it will go then postcrete in the hole. the important thing being you only need a small hole (I use a 6" "ladies spade" and you want nice parallel sides to the hole, not a V shaped hole. Then just pour the postctrete in dry and pour water on it. It sets in minutes. As to panels, buy 6" treated fencing planks and nail them horizontally alternating between one side of the post and the other. A lot lighter and cheaper than scaffold boards. This method lets a lot of the wind through so the loading on the posts is a lot less than a solid fence panel.

My builder thankfully incorporated a tony tray, before I had even heard of it, and I am sure they would not have referred to it as such. Another new build up here didn't and I watched slightly smug when I saw them taping the VCL around every single joist.

What I am finding up here is most people totally over state the circuit breaker requirements for a heat pump. Most have their heat umps fitted at an inflated price by an mcs approved contractor so they can claim the RHI. It is the installer that usually gives me the spec and it's quite normal for them to specify a C40 breaker, so I install an isolator with appropriate cable for that, and they connect from it with a bit of 2.5mm flex, and the unit turns out to have a max load of a little over 3KW. I think they are stuck in the dark ages up here when heat pumps didn't have variable speed drive and soft start, so had a huge start up surge.