ProDave

Next time, WAIT until he has actually picked something up and is leaving the site with it before you confront him, then it IS theft and the police had bloody well better take notice. I assume you are living in the hut? Is there a way you can leave the hut and make your way round to where the car is parked ready to confront him at the car with his bounty? Preferably with a camera?

I would turn this around. Presumably you are going to sell the original house? If so at the time of sale, you retain ownership of the access strip, and grant an easment to the purchaser of the old house so they can use it.

I dismantled a couple of LCD tv screens from sets with broken screens (to recover the CFL tubes) They are made up of several layers of opaque plastic sheets for precicely the same reason, to difuse the light so it does not appear to come from a few CFL tubes. That would probably easily cut into strips for what you want. Not sure that helps unless you want to seek out a scrap a tv and start dismantling it.

Or accidentally spill a box of nails there.

Forget the toaster and do your toast under the grill.

Every man should have a boat.

Yes it is fed from a pressure reducing valve, but no (over) pressure relief valve.

The Hyco one I linked to is all self contained and has no provision to connect any external relief valve or discharge pipework. I know of one working well feeding a sink immediately above it, and a basin probably 6 metres of pipework away with no issues and nothing fitted external to the unit, just cold water in and hot out to the two taps.

Follow this "logic" to it's conclusion, and they will be charging Council tax on a building plot as soon as PP is granted (based on the value of the house proposed) wedge, thin end.

I have fitted a couple of these for customers. They come in at least 3 different sizes. They seem to do the job for a sink in a kitchenette and a basin in the toilet.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hyco-SF10K-Undersink-Electric-Water-Heater-Unvented-10-Litre-2Kw-/290610639375?epid=1812691432&hash=item43a9be720f:g:IOIAAOSw4A5YrprN

If you want the maths, I bought mine, nearly 3 years later I sold it for the same amount. It only cost me the delivery charge, some diesel, and some minor servicing to have it all that time. I still miss Doug.

Just in case there is any confusion, I don't have one. I have not yet reached the point of installing the heating and HW system in my house, so the jury is still out on whether to use a SunAmp or an unvented HW cylinder. Unless something changes before I reach that point, then the decision will be capital cost, as capital is something I am very short of.

Go on, you know you really want to buy one to own.....

Back of fag packet maths. If a vacant plot is "worth" the same £2K rates valuation, then 26 vacant plots = a rateable value of £52K Split the vacant plots between 4 owners, so 6, 6, 7 and 7 per owner = below the threshold and all owners can claim a 100% rebate. More "money for old rope" grabbing by our lovely Scottish government

I can't see the difference. You argued you don't know exactly where it is going, that argument is more true for ducting. Just bury a length of 6mm SWA cable and leave the end coiled up near where you thing it will end up.

Re ridge tiles. I uses the dry ridge system that comes as a roll of stuff and some plastic brackets. Tile one side, then as you tile the other, roll out a bit more and fit ridge tiles as you go, so you can do that as well without standing n any finished roof.

A few tips I used Marley Edgemere which is a flat interlocking concrete tile. I had the one with a "riven" finish being the only one that looked slightly like slate so the planners would allow it. I carried them up in batches with help from swmbo. I reckon by time I had done the roof, I had climbed the equivalent of 2 Munro's up and down the ladder. My knees knew it. Do your roof the "Scottish way" and fit solid sarking board (OSB or ply) before the membrane, then you won't have to worry where you stand. I used Protect VP400 plus non tenting membrane. You need nails at the top, and clips at the bottom for most interlocking tiles. Start bottom right and work up and left and you can do the whole roof without having to stand on any tiles you have already laid. This assumes the gable end is scaffolded so you can work from the scaffold to complete the run. I used a wet diamond tile cutter, intended for cutting ceramic tiles but it did a good job of cutting concrete roof tiles. If there is an area you might want to remove, then don't nail that bit, screw them instead so they are easier to remove some tiles. The purists will say you should load a roof evenly, but I just tiled one side then the other and had no problems.

Bend the blade to compensate

Is the shaft really bent? Does it run at all? what's the symptoms. A previous mower I had, hit a bit of a stump. What happened was the motor stopped dead, but the inertia kept the flywheel going and it sheered the key that held the flywheel to the top of the shaft. One new key and it ran again and went on for years until the deck rested away. Our own mower packed up a few weeks ago, so SWMBO went into town with the objective to come back with the cheapest petrol mower she could find and came back with a "Challenge" Good points it's got a plastic deck so it won't rust but I suspect it will find some other way to fall apart instead. Bad points it's a bit small at 42cm cut and the grass box is a bit small.

Thank you. I thought my build was going slow, but I have built my entire house in that time!!!!!1

I would stop the decking short of the grass, and put a strip of paving slabs or a soldier course of paving bricks to form the transition from deck to lawn.

With that set up, I would expect the extract runs from bathrooms to be full of water from condensation by now.

Plan your drain runs in the main to run parallel with and between the joists. You can cut through the web of a JJI but you probably need to add a plywood gusset plate glued and screwed each side. Shower former sits straight on joists, you will need to add some strengthenig webs flush with the top pf the joists to properly support the former. Floor boards on top of joists up to former. This is exactly what I am doing except I have posi joists I can't see the drain issue being any different between a wet room former and a standard shower tray, unless you were planning to put the tray up on legs?

If suspended timber floor is the reason for not having a wet room, then nobody would have one upstairs, including me.

I doubt you will find anything 25mm deep, but something like this http://www.screwfix.com/p/aqualisa-aquavalve-609-built-in-riser-rail-thermostatic-mixer-shower-chrome/32030#product_additional_details_container reqires 60mm from the face of the tiles. Why not batten just this wall in 50mm battens? I doubt you will notice the room shrinking by 25mm? It will make running pipe easier as well (all walls where I need pipes are battened with 50mm)