ProDave

The Hyco one I linked to is all self contained and has no provision to connect any external relief valve or discharge pipework. I know of one working well feeding a sink immediately above it, and a basin probably 6 metres of pipework away with no issues and nothing fitted external to the unit, just cold water in and hot out to the two taps.

Follow this "logic" to it's conclusion, and they will be charging Council tax on a building plot as soon as PP is granted (based on the value of the house proposed) wedge, thin end.

I have fitted a couple of these for customers. They come in at least 3 different sizes. They seem to do the job for a sink in a kitchenette and a basin in the toilet.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hyco-SF10K-Undersink-Electric-Water-Heater-Unvented-10-Litre-2Kw-/290610639375?epid=1812691432&hash=item43a9be720f:g:IOIAAOSw4A5YrprN

If you want the maths, I bought mine, nearly 3 years later I sold it for the same amount. It only cost me the delivery charge, some diesel, and some minor servicing to have it all that time. I still miss Doug.

Just in case there is any confusion, I don't have one. I have not yet reached the point of installing the heating and HW system in my house, so the jury is still out on whether to use a SunAmp or an unvented HW cylinder. Unless something changes before I reach that point, then the decision will be capital cost, as capital is something I am very short of.

Go on, you know you really want to buy one to own.....

Back of fag packet maths. If a vacant plot is "worth" the same £2K rates valuation, then 26 vacant plots = a rateable value of £52K Split the vacant plots between 4 owners, so 6, 6, 7 and 7 per owner = below the threshold and all owners can claim a 100% rebate. More "money for old rope" grabbing by our lovely Scottish government

I can't see the difference. You argued you don't know exactly where it is going, that argument is more true for ducting. Just bury a length of 6mm SWA cable and leave the end coiled up near where you thing it will end up.

Re ridge tiles. I uses the dry ridge system that comes as a roll of stuff and some plastic brackets. Tile one side, then as you tile the other, roll out a bit more and fit ridge tiles as you go, so you can do that as well without standing n any finished roof.

A few tips I used Marley Edgemere which is a flat interlocking concrete tile. I had the one with a "riven" finish being the only one that looked slightly like slate so the planners would allow it. I carried them up in batches with help from swmbo. I reckon by time I had done the roof, I had climbed the equivalent of 2 Munro's up and down the ladder. My knees knew it. Do your roof the "Scottish way" and fit solid sarking board (OSB or ply) before the membrane, then you won't have to worry where you stand. I used Protect VP400 plus non tenting membrane. You need nails at the top, and clips at the bottom for most interlocking tiles. Start bottom right and work up and left and you can do the whole roof without having to stand on any tiles you have already laid. This assumes the gable end is scaffolded so you can work from the scaffold to complete the run. I used a wet diamond tile cutter, intended for cutting ceramic tiles but it did a good job of cutting concrete roof tiles. If there is an area you might want to remove, then don't nail that bit, screw them instead so they are easier to remove some tiles. The purists will say you should load a roof evenly, but I just tiled one side then the other and had no problems.

Bend the blade to compensate

Is the shaft really bent? Does it run at all? what's the symptoms. A previous mower I had, hit a bit of a stump. What happened was the motor stopped dead, but the inertia kept the flywheel going and it sheered the key that held the flywheel to the top of the shaft. One new key and it ran again and went on for years until the deck rested away. Our own mower packed up a few weeks ago, so SWMBO went into town with the objective to come back with the cheapest petrol mower she could find and came back with a "Challenge" Good points it's got a plastic deck so it won't rust but I suspect it will find some other way to fall apart instead. Bad points it's a bit small at 42cm cut and the grass box is a bit small.

Thank you. I thought my build was going slow, but I have built my entire house in that time!!!!!1

I would stop the decking short of the grass, and put a strip of paving slabs or a soldier course of paving bricks to form the transition from deck to lawn.

With that set up, I would expect the extract runs from bathrooms to be full of water from condensation by now.

Plan your drain runs in the main to run parallel with and between the joists. You can cut through the web of a JJI but you probably need to add a plywood gusset plate glued and screwed each side. Shower former sits straight on joists, you will need to add some strengthenig webs flush with the top pf the joists to properly support the former. Floor boards on top of joists up to former. This is exactly what I am doing except I have posi joists I can't see the drain issue being any different between a wet room former and a standard shower tray, unless you were planning to put the tray up on legs?

If suspended timber floor is the reason for not having a wet room, then nobody would have one upstairs, including me.

I doubt you will find anything 25mm deep, but something like this http://www.screwfix.com/p/aqualisa-aquavalve-609-built-in-riser-rail-thermostatic-mixer-shower-chrome/32030#product_additional_details_container reqires 60mm from the face of the tiles. Why not batten just this wall in 50mm battens? I doubt you will notice the room shrinking by 25mm? It will make running pipe easier as well (all walls where I need pipes are battened with 50mm)

Yes the wood fibre board has a waterproof coating. It can be left exposed for a certain length of time, though not permanently. So a very worst case is replace the wood fibre board and re render if anything did happen. Even most timber frames rely on OSB or ply sheeting for the racking strength, so no different to SIPS if that gets wet and rotten. Most timber frames have te racking layer on the outside, but In my case it's mostly 2 layers of OSB on the inside of the frame structure so less likely to get saturated and rot if there was a leak.

I don't know about Core Ten, but cor blimey at the price!!!!! £7.5K per square metre.

Alternatively don't put any water in the pipes at all. My plumber friend leak tests pipework by pumping it up with air.

Fill UFH pipes with inhibitor / antfreeze Assuming it's insulated under the slab and the walls and roof are insulated I can't see it getting cold enough to freeze anyway. Plenty up here leave the slab over winter with UFH pipes then build the house on the slab in the spring, and it never seems to come to harm.

I have to respond to this thread as my house is "stucco" onto the timber frame, well sort of. If I am to believe the doomsayers in this thread then in 20 years there will be a soggy rotten mess behind my "stucco" I sincerely hope not. I am not expecting my render to crack, mainly due to part of the application process being to roll a sheet of fibreglass mesh into the wet render and trowel it in to bind the whole lot together. The poor detail in this instance as far as I could tell was no window cills, and the waterproofing membrane around the windows wrongly detailed so instead of water running off in front of the render with a proper cill and drip bead, it ran behind it and even behind the tyvek. Re wood windows Vs ali clad. Our previous house had wood windows. At 15 years old they are still sound and solid. My only objection to wooden windows is the need to re paint or varnish them regularly, which is why this time I have chosen ali clad. If the owner of that house had maintained the windows, they would have spotted the problems sooner and been able to fix them sooner and easier.

Okay, that's that idea shelved. Before I posted this I thought I had found something saying mdpe was okay up to 60 degrees so thought 45 might be okay.

There is a way round it. Move to the Highlands. I discharged all my planning conditions by email with the planning officer for no fee, and when completed got an email and letter to say all conditions were met. It's a shame some (most?) councils charge a fee, just because they can.