ProDave

I would just fit a simple freesat box if terrestrial reception is poor. No more, no less.

Looking at the plans in @newhome post above, the house is set too high on the plot. The gutter level of the new house should have been pretty much the same as next door but it is a lot higher. So no easy fix. I wonder at what stage of the build the planners noticed the error and started trying to enforce it?

So how do you build a house "30" too tall"? Were the foundations too high? Is there an extra storey? Is the roof pitch wrong? Not enough detail. As for £200K to replace the roof to make it right, utter tosh. I am bullding a whole house for that, a new compliant roof won't cost that much.

This is the thing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ADSL-BROADBAND-FACEPLATE-SPLITTER-for-NTE5-Sockets/172241127361?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 That is the one for the basic flat NTE5 master socket. It replaces the plug in bottom section. If you have the alternative version of master socket with a rounded front, you need a different version. The extension phone wiring connects to the filtered "phone" wiring and the router plugs into the ADSL socket, again without a filter.

Open Reach only normally supply a standard master socket. I have just ordered a filtered front plate to fit a standard NTE5 front plate so the slave sockets for phones don't need a filter. Also having all your slave phone wiring filtered means it is less likely to impact your broadband speed in a marginal area.

If you use something like Kwikstage or Cuplock, you can fit "hop up" extensions to take the scaffold closer to the frame, then remove these as the brickies build up the outer blockwork.

Yes. But don't put it in the downstairs plant room / utility, that would put it a long way from the bathrooms. Put it in the left hand single cupboard on the landing and have that as an airing cupboard. That will get the tank pretty central to the kitchen and all bathrooms and minimise the time taken for hot water to reach the taps. I learned quite early in my build that "plant" is best distributed around the house as each item is best suited, so now the only thing in my "plant" room is the mvhr unit.

I went with BT, paid their standard £65 connection charge. Because they took way longer than they should to make the connection, I got most of that connection fee refunded and a substantial discount applied. I have just renewed with BT for £23.99 per month for line rental and unlimited broadband, they price matched what Plusnet were offering so saved the hassle of actually switching providers. I don't make calls with the l;andline, too expensive, my £5 per month SIM only mobile deal takes care of all the calls I need.

I have 5 supply points (2 living rooms and 3 bedrooms) and 4 extract points (bathroom, en-suite, utility and kitchen) I ran 2 ducts in parallel to each room vent, but I know some only used 1 duct per vent so that could cut costs a little. The radial ducting system like this is indeed very simple to install.

installing an mvhr really is simple, especially if using the radial ducting system from BPC. It took me a weekend It starts as 2 manifolds next to the mvhr And 2 ducts in parallel run to each vent terminal Posi joists do make it somewhat easier. If you have quotes for £3K or more to install it, that will be your best "paid" weekends work ever.

Why is the cost of mvhr frightening you? I paid about £500 for my mvhr unit and all the ducting and terminals was about £1000 I am not sure if English building regs demand an air tightness test yet. Watch out if they do, a local build near me was just installing mechanical extract ventilation, but his air test came out too good, and building control insisted he rip that out and fit mvhr. By the way mvhr does not run at the same speed all the time. It's on 24/7 on trickle rate and can increase speed when cooking or showering. Some use a manual boost, some use humidistats to select boost speed..

Hi and welcome. You say it's 5 bedroom, but I only count 4, 3 upstairs and one down. Which way is north and a plot layout would help? My first comment downstairs is I would be using bedroom 4 as a snug lounge to escape the noise of a kitchen environment.

3M is a low water table. Here it come to withing a few inches of the surface at times.

Do you not have a fireproofing issue, particularly with windows if <1M from a boundary? Is there no way you could negotiate the boundary to be just over 1M from your wall?

I'm confused. That Denso link talks about air to water, but then talks about air as the distribution medium, so surely it's air to air? Very confusing website.

All pre made trusses are engineered. It's just that the truss company doe the sums, makes them to size and certifies them. They provide a roof plan of how to assemble them. Providing you stick to that plan, no other engineering input is normally needed.

You need attic trusses. Common up here for part room in roof houses. It also gives you an uncluttered loft space. For hipped roofs they make a set where the end trusses are shaped to the hip, or that but can be cut on site.

My house has a cut roof and probably pretty much any house with a ridge beam and vaulted ceilings.

Unless you are using Windoze 10. SWMBO's laptop chooses what bluetooth devices to see and not to see, and even when to see them. Just as it sometimes decides to tell her the printer is off line. The Android phones never have a problem with bluetooth.

I suspect the blue tooth bit is to connect it's own speakers to itself to avoid pesky wires and not for connecting your phone. Re the power supply is there anything written next to the power socket. I am awaiting delivery from China of a blue tooth adaptor for the hifi. I eagerly await what my £1.28 may have bought me.

If you want a more open plan feel, open up the present snug to the kitchen and hall as a kitchen / dining / family room, and keep the room to the left as an enclosed quiet snug.

I personally detest stairs going up from a living room. It probably stems from my first house being like this and it was a devil to keep the living room warm with a constant stream of cold air flowing down the stairs. It was always warm on the landing. Perhaps that would not be an issue with a modern well insulated house? You gain more space but it is still a corridor and one less wall to put things against or on.

Ditch the cat slide dormers. I think they look horrible, and create a very difficult edge detail to both get right initially, and then to maintain. Put proper little gable end dormers instead, look much nicer.

That just sounds like a rite of passage to me. Like the first time you use a chain saw. Every time AFTER the first time, you make sure your trousers are outside your boots.

I will be using the through wall kit as well. I have built a bit of flat 100mm ducting recessed partly into the wall that terminates in the wall with a flat to round adaptor. I will have to make my own 100 to 80mm reducing plug for that. My logic was it was better to do this and get (any) stone behind it drilled, than trying to get a hole drilled in the hearth slab, then lifting that down over the pipe. Still not decided whether to use a big slab of stone, or tiles. Tiles will no doubt be way way cheaper.