ProDave

Shop around is your answer. My Air source heat pump cost me £455, I have just bought all the downstairs under floor heating kit for £502, and the hot water tank was the expensive bit at £875 That's the heating and hot water system all bar the pipe and some valves for £1832. How much is a combi and your radiators?

I will almost certainly use the one I have just bought for the downstairs manifold. Now I have put it in a spare DIN rail enclosure, it is such a perfect fit. Then I will use the one from @newhome with the yet to be bought manifold for upstairs.

I only need 1, I will use the one I have just bought for the other. There will be 1 manifold and 1 controller on each floor. They will operate independantly possible even on at different times so there is no need for them to link together so it matters not that they are different. I have not bought the upstairs manifoild yet so that too may end up different to the downstairs one.

The DiseqC switch comes before the LNB so the LNB would know even know, let alone care, it was fed from a switch. The only theory I can come up with is it's quite a long length of cable from the house to the dish about 30 metres, and I wonder if the old LNB consumed more power and was causing a volt drop issue stopping the switch from seeing it's signal and switching, and perhaps the replacement is lower power? It was an OLD LNB it has been on that dish for 15 years, and it was by no means new when I got it then. It's replacement is a modern one, no more than 10 years old.

There is a time and a place for a wood burner. In a town or city or the bottom of a sheltered valley may not be it. But up here in the sparsely populated Highlands, where neighbours are not close, and it's nearly always windy, they really are not a nuisance to neighbours. Of course any law passed will be based on regulating their use in Central London, then be applied equally everywhere.

@Nickfromwales and @newhome I will have the one going begging. I still need another one, I only bought one of my cheap ones to evaluate so yes please I will give it a good home.

That's pretty normal. The way they stack the terminals, things get very cosy indeed when you have a thermostat and then say 3 actuators connected to each zone. How much did that one cost?

Why not just stand on a stool to clean the flippin shower head like everyone else? I now firmly believe my en-suite will be finished before this bathroom, and I have not even yet set a date to START my en-suite.

Re setting up my satellite system. Previously I had a separate receiver for each satellite, but thought I would streamline things and have one receiver covering Aatra 1 and Hotbird with a DiseqC switch. Dish was alligned and working. So tune in Astra 1 (connected to LNB1 on the Diseqc switch) all okay. Start tuning in Hotbird (connected to LNB2 on the DiseqC switch) and hang on, it's getting the same list of channels. Tried every DiseqC setting I could find on the receiver still just finding the Astra 1 channels. Out of desparation I went to the dish and physically unplugged the Astra 1 LNB. Re scanned the receiver, and it found the Hotbird channels. Go and plug the Astra LNB in again. Switch to an Astra 1 channel, okay, switch back to a Hotbird channel "no signal" Go and unplug the Astra 1 LNB and it switches over to the Hotbird LNB. Out of desparation I swapped the Astra 1 LNB for a different one. Now it all works. So what was going on, with the old Astra 1 LNB it would not "let go" of the DiseqC switch but the new LNB works fine. What would cause that? never seen anything like it before.

I doubt that exposed conduit will be cheap. You need a good electrician to bend and thread galvanised conduit and get it looking sharp like that. I am willing to bet that will hardly be any cheaper than conventional wiring in a service void then plasterboard.

Yes I undid the screws and there was enough wriggle room to get it to all line up. I like the idea of keep the valves there, and fit 2 more in line so you can isolate for a pump change.

I got all my UFH parts for downstairs for £502 I had one company price up a supply only package and that was just a few £ short of £1K I still need a manifold for upstairs, but everybody was out of stock of 2 port manifolds so I will buy that later.

One thing you need with under floor heating is the electrical controls for the manifold. As an electrician I have wired many different makes. Most have struck me as over complicated with features that are never used, poorly thought out making them very hard to wire neatly with insufficient space for cable termination, and over expensive for what they are. Then I found this one: On sale very cheap on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-ZONE-UNDERFLOOR-HEATING-WIRING-CENTRE/132318857114?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Before I bought it I did some searching and found the instruction manual http://www.auraton.pl/wp-content/uploads/_instrukcje/en/manual_AURATON_4DPRO_en.pdf That is it. That is the entire instruction manual, you get a paper copy of that with the item. First impressions. The manual is about as much use as a chocolate tea pot. There is not enough information to safely and correctly connect it and expect it to work, let alone understand what exactly it is doing. However once you work it out, it does indeed do everything you need it to do. You just need to fill in the blanks. Firstly the themostat terminals (variously referred to as such things as "terminals of cable controllers") There is a pair of terminals for each room thermostat for the 4 zones. It is important to note that the left hand of each pair of terminals is the L supply out (internally linked to the L into the unit) to the thermostat, and the right hand of each pair of terminals is the switched L back from the thermostat into this unit. If your thermostat needs a neutral, you will have to link that independantly. The output terminals are one pair for each zone. The left hand of each pair being N internally linked to N in, and the right hand pair being switched L to the zone actuator valves. There is a global switched L out to turn on the pump when any zone calls for heat, and a volt free changeover relay contact to link to the boiler / heap pump etc. So it does what it should, just shame you have to do a bit of detective work to fathom it out. I just thought I would mention this if anyone else was after a budget controller.

Last house I didn't have to do this, it came pre assembled. But in a bid to get everything as cheap as possible the manifold and the pump / blending set came as separate items for "simple home assembly" There is one instruction leaflet for the manifold, which came with two isolating valves, and one for the pump / mixing valve set. So here is first try: Question 1: The pump does not fit. The gap is too wide. As both halves of the mainfold are held together on the 2 mounting brackets, is it just a case of bending the brackets to bring the two halves of the manifold closer together (a bit poor if that's what you are supposed to do) otherwise what have I done wrong, it seems to follow the instructions. Question 2: The instructions for the manifold show those isolating valves there. The instructions for the mixing valve and pump never actually show the two attached to each other. Shouldn't those isolating valves be in the flow and return from (in my case) the heat pump rather than between the mixing valve and the manifold?

Have you got the correct flashing kit? Sarking and no battens on the sarking to me means slate nailed direct to the sarking. I suspect you might need a different flashing kit.

Hi and welcome. Another one cautioning your budget may not be big enough. We are building a 3 bedroom house and have already spent over £100K on the build and it is not finished yet. The actual build cost is likely to come in at about £130K which is still under £1000 per square metre. It is only that low because I am doing so much of the work myself, and estimate I have saved £30K in labour costs already.

I guess this is one of the advantages of remote mounting the pump? I will be interested to hear how you get on. Ours too emits a low hum. Some form of accoustic mounts would probably help because with ours if you just pick up the pump and hold it in your hand it is fairly quiet. Most of the noise comes from standing the pump on the base of it's chamber which acts like a drum. This is a "to do later" project for me so I will be following your findings. SWMBO has already noticed our garden "hums" This does not seem unique to one or 2 makes. There is a general lack of care I believe. I wired a Graff treatment plant a year ago and when powered up almost sounded like a knackered old lawnmower. 2 bits of the casing were vibrating together. Just putting your foot on it stopped the noise. That clearly needed some attention to detail in the design.

So are you saying a well sealed party wall will lose more heat than any of the external walls of my detached house? I'll stick to detached then.

Unless your neighbour habitually keeps his house very cold, I can't see a great deal of saving from party wall insulation. What am I missing? Now soundproofing benefit, that is a lot more likely.

DO NOT try lighting a bonfire with petrol. It WILL end badly, if you are lucky just with singed eyebrows. Diesel yes, petrol NOOOOOOO. I light mine when I have one with a gas blowtorch.

Never sign up to the full price. I have just renewed with BT for £23.99 per month, that being a price match of what Plusnet are currently offering.

I wonder how that will impact the sale of wood and coal?

Yes like Joe I have a Kingspan badged, Mitsubishi Lossnay mvhr with a waxed paper heat exchange core. We are not yet living in the house, thought all the clothes washing is dried inside the house, and have never had any problems. I don't have an RH meter but can't say I feel in any way unconfortable. I spend a lot of time in the house as my office is there even though we are still living in the static caravan. I would definitely turn the mvhr speed down. Mine is only running at the very slowest speed. I have not done flow measurements and comissioned it properly, but my feeling is even when I have done that, air quality will be what sets the speed, not some measurement on a table to satisfy a building regulation number.

It's a clumsy process. You contact Open Reach who will work out where to run a line and do the bulk of the work. If the work is going to cost more more than £3K they will bill you, less than that and it is free. Then when you are ready to be connected you contact your provider (most likely BT at least to start with) and they will charge you the standard connection charge which was £65 when I had mine connected.

My single phase ASHP has soft start variable speed inverter drive, that is not a feature limited to 3 phase models.