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About Jamie998

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  1. You need to get in touch with BT Openreach and register for a new connection. They will eventually send an engineer out for a site appraisal which will be followed by a delivery of the required ducting & cable free of charge. I simply told him I didn't want a pole on my land and that I would run ducting underground to the nearest pole. They sent the stuff & I laid it all ready for a connection, I received enough cable to reach to my house, the connection is in my static caravan at the minute - the rest of the cable is coiled up in the duct access chamber that I installed, ready for me to move the master socket to the house when the time comes. To get the connection up and running you apply to BT for a phone line connection simples.
  2. Cheers @ProDave that helps to clarify things in my mind. I forgot about the 25*50mm battens - which answers the query about how does the sub deck attack to the pozi joists over the screed!
  3. Hey, Just trying to get my head around how this would work for the first floor. As I understand it, because the pozi joists can't be notched there are two options: 1. The UFH pipes are supported between the joists with the loops running down and up through the webs. The dry screed is then laid on top and all of this sits between the joists so that the finished screed surface is level with the top of the pozi joists. The sub deck then gets laid over all of this. 2. A supporting deck is laid over the pozi joists. The pipes are then laid on top of this and its all then covered by the dry screed, with the sub deck then being laid over the top. This all sits on top of the pozi joists. At the minute, if I have method 2 correct then this looks like my preferred route. Unless someone tells me otherwise, I dont like the idea of UFH pipes running down and up through the webs of the pozi joists and it seems a lot more fiddly and time consuming over just laying all of it on top of the joists? Advice from people in the know is much appreciated! Ta.
  4. I'm paying £1200 for a SE to design the insulated raft for me - approx. 170m2 for total area of slab.
  5. This reference should probably be caveated with the fact that prices have moved on somewhat since 2013, so yes it is a useful read, however the prices quoted may no longer be applicable. If you are going with a ground bearing slab then why bother with strip foundations with it? May as well go the whole hog and use an insulated raft foundation as the costs are only slightly higher than strip founds paired with a ground bearing slab if I have my numbers right?
  6. The problem here Jonathan is that the usual sequence of events means that you have to make a decision and action it before you get to the stage where you meet the actual guy tasked by the DNO to do the work. I agree they are generally a pragmatic bunch and more realistic 'on the ground' than the folks sat behind a computer tend to be. Little Britain and 'computer says no' springs to mind.
  7. I have had an electric bill so EON are definitely charging me, Anglian Water don't seem to care. I had a red letter come from Anglian and when I rang up to find out why a red letter had been received but no previous bills, it turned out to be an error - they had mixed my account up with someone else's. When I asked about my bill, the answer seemed to be that I wouldn't get one till I was living there - all seemed a bit strange the conversation, but I gave up trying to clear it all up. I assume that as my water meter was '0' on day dot, when I start paying for water they will bill me for it all anyway, so I will end up paying at some point.
  8. I agree - I am pretty sure 45m from IC to IC. Table 13 of Part H.
  9. Adding more inspection chambers is what I want to avoid. My plot was the neighbours garden, there is now a driveway owned by her which I have rights of access for anything and everything I could possibly need over it. There are already two fugly manholes in the drive at the front of her house bordering the drive - we don't need a third! I'm on a mission to minimalize/hide manholes where I can.
  10. I have permission both from the sewage company and the neighbour. Its all in the deeds that I have right of access for all services etc. etc...(all the i's are dotted and t's crossed so no issues in this regard). When I filled out my foul drainage application form stated I would connect indirectly via neighbour. It currently serves neighbour only so I will be property no.2. No problem with flow capacity of pipe etc., it can support my additional connection. My head tells me to break the neighbours connection, dig a deeper hole, whack in an IC to 1.4m, connect my pipe, connect neighbours pipe as a backdrop connection to the new depth, reconnect to the pipe that connects the outlet to the sewer albeit at a deeper depth. Am I missing something fundamental? P.S. The only contact I have since had with the sewage company is to say 'no you can't bill me yet as the connection hasn't been done yet - ok, ring us when it has - rgr'
  11. I've paid the connection fee already Peter and they have no problem with me connecting Indirectly - its just the 'how' now. Throwing my conundrum out to the audience in the hope that the collective mind will focus in on the optimal solution to the problem. Many ways to skin a cat - which is cheapest vs easies that is the question!!
  12. Pumping isn't my preferred option - no moving parts is Plan A. @ProDave I've just modelled it all in Sketchup, to bring my foul run into the neighbours IC I would need to bring the rest bend up into the concrete slab pretty much so I will have to do something at the Inspection Chamber end.
  13. I could connect to main sewer - but then it will cost a hell of a lot more and I would have to used an 'Approved Contractor'. This may seem like hassle at the minute but I'm seeing money to be saved - potentially enough not to be sniffed at. There doesn't seem to be any issues with me actually connecting to the manhole - its just the levels that are a problem. There will only be two houses on this connection and without going into the weeds I am not concerned about where responsibility lies in the event of a blockage. If it blocks I'll get some drain rods out and unblock it - simples. If this is done 'right' then should be no more likelihood of it blocking than anyone else's - sometimes s@@t happens and if so it will be dealt with. I've spoken to BC - other than to say it sounds ok I'm on my own. The image is a rough sketch of the current foul run from the manhole to the main sewer. At a fall of 1:60 my run would come in at about 1.05m below the current invert.
  14. Right, soooo, one solution to my lack of depth for my foul run (covered on pervious threads) is to excavate the manhole I intend to connect to and install a backdrop IC there. The manhole in question serves a neighbours property before connecting to mains sewer. It is approximately 30cm deep at the minute and about 0.75m from the neighbours front door. The output from it runs perpendicular to the neighbours frontage for about 30cm before turning 90 degrees to the right and running a further 5m ish to the sewer invert which is 3m, so that's a fairly steep connection to the sewer. If I dig out this manhole and stick an IC in at say 1.35m deep (so digging out an additional 1.05m beyond the existing depth) this should give me a fall of about 1:60 (over the 52m length from my property). However, in order to reconnect the neighbours shallow foul runs it will have to be done using backdrop connections. Does this sound feasible? There were a few indirect comments regarding backdrops on a previous thread which leads me to believe they are a favourable method? I will try and sketch this in a bit.
  15. Insulated raft is plan A providing that the ground allows it so my drainage needs to work with it - I'm sure it will work out, I have the beginnings of a solution in mind which I will discuss in another thread as it concerns backdrops!!